240 dl sedan 1984 stereo problems

cincykid18 · Post by **cincykid18** » 27 Oct 2008, 18:02

so this is my second post about my first volvo. Mine has an aftermarket stereo in it, and the owner prior to me obviously didn't love the volvo as much as i do, because instead of getting the wiring harness to install the stereo into the dash, he just sliced the old one and hard wired the standard stereo connector to the dash. This however is not the problem, i've repaired the errors in wiring he made. My stereo turns off when the car is shut off, obviously, however to my dismay, it will not save any of the settings which are input into it, it loses it's place on whatever cd you were listening to, etc. Is is possible to remedy this problem by connecting the stereo power directly to the battery, or is it possible the original installer missed that connection?

i also have the over drive problem a lot of people seem to have where the fuse blows every time you put it into the "rear defog" slot. I have been able to get the rear demister to work exactly once, and then it subsequently blew the fuse, and continues to do so. I can live without a rear defog for a while, is it possible to disconnect and put a fuse in to bring the over drive back to life?

sorry for this being so long winded and thanks for the help!
Evan

Kmaniac in California USA · Post by **Kmaniac in California USA** » 27 Oct 2008, 21:52

I don't claim to be an audio device expert, nor to I play one on TV...

I would expect your after-market stereo unit to have 2 power leads, one that should be connected to direct battery power to save presets, operate the clock (if equipped with a clock), etc. and one that should be connected to an accessory lead (switched with the ignition key). Usually, the direct power lead wire is "red" and the accessory lead wire is "black" (most units ground through the steel body of the unit). Check out yours again and let us know how many wires and their colors, if confused.

Post by **billofdurham** » 28 Oct 2008, 13:26

I agree with Chris. The crucial wire has not been connected.

Re the overdrive/rear heated window. Is it the RHW that is blowing the fuse or the overdrive? If it is the RHW don't switch it on. If you want to disconnect the circuit the easiest way is to pry out the switch and remove the connector from the back.

Bill.

cincykid18 · Post by **cincykid18** » 28 Oct 2008, 14:30

i'm not sure if it's the rear window thats blowing the fuse or not. i don't recall if it's flipping the switch that blows it or just turning the car on. i know at one time the switch had no problems and came on and worked fine, but i am no longer able to put a fuse in the rear demist area without it blowing on startup. if it isn't the rear demister what could be the cause, and how would i go about remedying it myself as i can't afford anymore costly repairs.

Post by **billofdurham** » 29 Oct 2008, 12:40

As there are only two items covered by this fuse the other culprit would be the overdrive.

Take the heated rear window switch out and remove the connector, replace the fuse and try again. This will rule out a fault in the switch and the wiring from the switch to the HRW. It does not rule out a possible short circuit in the wiring from the fuse box to the switch but we can deal with that possibility later if the fuse blows.

Bill.