850 Front Suspension - axle, control arm, tie rod, torque specs Topic is solved

Brandonium · Post by **Brandonium** » 17 Nov 2008, 07:40

Hello All,

Well, I finally bit the bullet and decided to rebuild my entire front end, suspension and brakes. After searching this forum and finding very supportive information I've come very close to having everything I need. I do have a few remaining questions. On Saturday I was able to remove most of the drivers front components with exception of control arm, cv axle and inner tie rod end. Here are my questions:

1). Do I need to remove the spindle/hub from the control arm to remove the cv axle? I loosened the pinch bolt but didn't separate.
2). I've heard that there are 2 types of control arms. I ordered the bushing set but from what I can tell this won't work? Why would FCP sell this kit then? What are the signs of a control arm needing replacement?
3). The older inner tie rod doesn't have the wrench indentations like the replacement. Does this item still unscrew from the steering rack? Do I simply put the pipe wrench on the round outer section and grind on it until it loosens?
4). The Haynes manual that I have doesn't mention the re-torque specs for the steering and suspension items. Am I missing something here?
5). The drivers caliper has a section of the dust boot protruding out. I wasn't able to tuck that section back in. My pads were completely gone so the piston was pretty far out. Is this boot situation something I need to worry about?

Many Thanks,
Brandon

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 17 Nov 2008, 09:13

1). Do I need to remove the spindle/hub from the control arm to remove the cv axle? I loosened the pinch bolt but didn't separate.

You can separate it at the ball joint or remove the two bolts and remove the control arm from the frame. It comes down to what the condition of the control arm is. I have never been able to get the ball joint out of the steering knuckle without destroying the rubber cover on the ball joint. If my control arm is good I remove it at the frame. Once the bottom of the steering knuckle is free (either with or without the control arm hooked to it) you can swing it out far enough to remove the axle.

2). I've heard that there are 2 types of control arms. I ordered the bushing set but from what I can tell this won't work? Why would FCP sell this kit then? What are the signs of a control arm needing replacement?

There are two types, the '93 / early '94 version which is an aluminum arm that has replaceable ball joints and bushings and the later version which is a steel control arm that doesn't have replaceable components. The signs that they need to be replaced are any movement in the ball joint or in the bushings.

3). The older inner tie rod doesn't have the wrench indentations like the replacement. Does this item still unscrew from the steering rack? Do I simply put the pipe wrench on the round outer section and grind on it until it loosens?

That is the way to do it.

4). The Haynes manual that I have doesn't mention the re-torque specs for the steering and suspension items. Am I missing something here?

See Page 8-1 and pages 10-2 and 10-3 for most of them. I can't find a spec. for the inner tie rod.

5). The drivers caliper has a section of the dust boot protruding out. I wasn't able to tuck that section back in. My pads were completely gone so the piston was pretty far out. Is this boot situation something I need to worry about?

So long as it seals well I would say no but they are cheap and easy to replace.

...Lee

Brandonium · Post by **Brandonium** » 22 Nov 2008, 11:00

Thank you! I have one additional question. I started tearing down the front suspension and steering before I knew that I was going to do a CV axle replacement. With that being said, I was trying to break the axle nut loose and it won't budge. It spins the passenger side wheel even though it's on the ground. What minimal components can I put back on that would allow me to put the wheel back on and apply vehicle weight to it. This would allow me to break it free. What I have removed so far is:

1). Inner/Outer Tie Rod
2). Sway bar link
3). Caliper with mounting brace
4). Pinch bolt for hub to control arm
5). Rotor
6). Rotor dust shield
I was thinking that if I re-install the pinch bolt as well as mount the strut to the hub I should be ok? Any input is welcome.

Thanks Again,
Brandon
3

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 22 Nov 2008, 15:00

Try just jamming a brick or part of a concrete block in behind the tire. It may want to wobble around on you without the tie rods hooked up but you can put them back on hand tight to stabilize things. If you have not popped the ball joint out of the steering knuckle yet the pinch bolt will make no difference - it may actually help to free it up.

It takes a metric butt load of force to crack the axle nut free. A good impact and compressor will often do it but my compressor has a small tank (great for a nail gun) and I wound up buying a 3/4" drive socket set from Harbor Freight and put a 6' pipe on it to get them free.

...Lee

Brandonium · Post by **Brandonium** » 22 Nov 2008, 15:06

Lee, thanks so much.

What I ended up doing was bolting the new strut back to the hub assembly, tightening the pinch bolt and installing the rotor and wheel. I mentioned this in another thread but I put a breaker bar on a 1" drive and it sheared the head right off the ratchet. I'm guessing I should not have used a ratchet but a true breaker bar instead?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 22 Nov 2008, 15:12

The Chinese 3/4" breaker bar I was using had one heck of a flex (about 30°) on it while I was standing on the pipe but the nut ultimately relented.

Good luck with it - I feel your pain.

..Lee

gdict · Post by **gdict** » 23 Nov 2008, 19:31

I used my jack handle on a 1/2" drive Craftsman breaker bar and snapped the square drive piece clean off doing a CV shaft last week. I had an old SK breaker bar that worked, but it was crazy flexing. Those nuts are a real bitch.

As for your caliper piston dust boot, when you compress the piston all the way back in the caliper, there is a grove in the piston that lines up with the lip on the caliper housing that allows you to easily reinsert the dust boot all the way. It is nearly impossible unless you do this.

Cheers!

Brandonium · Post by **Brandonium** » 24 Nov 2008, 06:12

Well, I think I am relenting and may probably finish all but the CV axles then drive it a mile down the road for a shop to finish. I jumped on it for an hour yesterday and while my new bar and socket didn't break it sure didn't budge. The Volvo is parked right next to my collector vehicle so I am scared to death that it'll slip and something will fling into it or I'll cause myself personal injury. I do have a few other questions though. I have 2 new issues that I am unsure of now that I am going back with re-assembly.

1). I have attempted to screw the outer tie rod on just like the original but I am 1/2 thread from where the original was. I can get it no tighter. Also, now, when I go to mount it to the spindle it has the hub turned left. When I originally disassembled the wheel was straight. Will alignment fix this or do I need to address this?
2). I'm guessing this happened when I put the weight back on the vehicle but the sway bar mounting point is now substantially higher then when I removed the link to the tune of 2". How do I get the bar back in place? Do I need to jack up the other end at the same time and disassemble to get where I can move this bar back? FYI, I took a pipe wrench and was able to slip it in finally but the pressure applied to the link automatically kicks it out. I'm afraid to mess up the threads.

The inner tie rod and boot was simple as well as the back. The only problem (and I really hate this design) I have had is getting the stupid shock nuts tightened. It bolts on 1/4 of the way then spins. I had to hold the top with a crescent and use an open end to tighten down. Was it designed like this on purpose?

Thanks for all your help...
Brandon

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 24 Nov 2008, 08:53

Will alignment fix this or do I need to address this?

Assuming that the part is correct an alignment should fix it.

Do I need to jack up the other end at the same time and disassemble to get where I can move this bar back?

Yes, just jack up the other side of the car.

The top nuts on the struts are a pain. Volvo has a real nifty special tool to deal with them but the rest of us use your method.

...Lee