99 S70 fuel rail removal

ddb307 · Post by **ddb307** » 06 Dec 2008, 12:53

Changing out the PCV parts on my '99 S70, and I'm not sure how to remove the fuel line from the fuel rail so that i can remove the intake manifold. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also has anyone ever heard of both pipes inside of the PCV hose assembly being broken?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 06 Dec 2008, 13:46

Yes, on the last question.
To get the injectors out...just unbolt the fuel rail and gently wiggle and pull straight out from the engine...be careful on the tips of the injectors...they are fragile. Also, watch for the 0-rings that you don't lose them.

ddb307 · Post by **ddb307** » 06 Dec 2008, 15:12

I got the injectors out and everything is good. Now what I'm not able to do is get the quick-release fuel line coupling(described by my haynes manual) to release so that I can remove the rail, I definitely appreciate your help.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 06 Dec 2008, 22:19

You might find it easier to manuever the fuel rail if you remove the two bolts holding the hard fuel lines tight to the motor- one at the rear of the cylinder head, one halfway down the rear of the block. In this way you won't have to disconnect the fuel line, which by the way, if you're having trouble with, all auto parts dealers sell a simple tool to uncouple it.

ddb307 · Post by **ddb307** » 03 Jan 2009, 18:20

I disconnected the fuel line, removed the intake manifold and replaced everything involved in the pcv system(pipe assembly, oil seperator and all connecting hoses), however when I cranked the car I still had the initial symptom i had when found the broken pcv pipe assembly and the car was idling rough, slightly high around 1100 rpm, and a large lack of power and acceleration, and jumping rpm when i took my foot off the gas pedal and the car idled down. Also the transmission engages pretty harshly starting into drive or reverse. Today I took everything back apart, and I saw that it looked like there wasn't a complete seal around the intake manifold gasket. It appeared that fuel or some kind of fluid had run down the new paper gasket at each of the five cylinder openings. So I put everything back on trying to mate the manifold flushly, retighten all the bolts(torqued to spec) and when i got everything back on and started the car same things. Any suggestions? You guys help tremendously.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 03 Jan 2009, 19:53

I think something is disconnected. Did you disconnect the idle air control (IAC) valve and not connect it back? Also, you need to make sure and seat the injectors flush (and tight) with all 0-rings and spacers which are at the top. Just curious, did you clean your PTC valve when you did the PCV replacement?

ddb307 · Post by **ddb307** » 03 Jan 2009, 20:42

I will check the idle air control valve tomorrow as well as seeing whether the fuel injectors are pressed in properly. Where is the PTC valve located?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 03 Jan 2009, 22:22

The PTC valve is where the small PCV hose attaches to at the bottom of your accordion intake hose...it has a bayonet connector which must be cleaned and reamed out if it is clogged during the PCV replacement. Without this, it's as if you never did the replacement at all.

ddb307 · Post by **ddb307** » 03 Jan 2009, 23:11

Ok, that's what I was doing when it first started running badly, I cleaned the throttle body and that part of the accordian hose because of all the gunk in it and I saw the pipe assembly to the oil seperator was broken, on top of that the small hose elbow on the passenger side of the intake manifold was melted and broken off from the intake.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 03 Jan 2009, 23:37

Good luck and let us know how things go. It could be that your car just needs the battery disconnected for about 20 minutes to reset the adaptives (the computer is not used to a clean system and doesn't know how to react). If you do this, make sure you have your radio code and always disconnect and reconnect the negative battery cable....When disconnecting, don't have your key in the ignition, but when reconnecting, have your key in the ignition and at position II (just short of cranking). See if this helps if your IAC is not the problem.