v70-850 Exhaust Manifold Question

Post by **Volvo_240_Atari_2600** » 28 Dec 2008, 09:51

Hi,

Have a 1998 v70
175k
Automatic, non turbo
Florida

I have an annoying exhaust leak that started about a month or two ago. It had gotten louder recently.

A custom exhaust shop looked at it and said it broke (didn't say where) and quoted me on $900 OEM from the dealer or... for about $450.00 he could remove it and custom weld the flex pipe. I guess he was trying to tell me he would install a new flex pipe??? for $450??? Not belittleing his labor but I sensed he wanted to make me feel like he was saving me more than 50% but getting a dealer manifold.

I smelled a little BS from the guy so I found it Brand New from GROTON for $259.00 w/ free shipping.

Well here's my question... They all look interchangeable (non turbo) for all 850's and early v and s series.

Is this so?

I personally have not had the chance to look where ite exhaust is (broken) but since I know I need ne motor mounts, which I will replace next week, can I just remove the manifold and take it to an exhaust shop to weld back any broken welds? I suspect what is broken is one of the welds.

Would anyone pick one up from a local salvage yard? Lets say the cost was $30.00 for one? I hate doing thins twice, but I would but one from the yard, may be better than mine but because it's used, I don't know the integrity of the welds on it so I would take the used one to a weld shop to I guess reinforce the welds on it and I would just swap mine out. Get that one fixed some day and keep it as a spare.

Any suggestions?

Or is this a nightmare job for one to do at home, being it is located in the rear of the engine bay etc?

Thanks
Eric

carp-guru · Post by **carp-guru** » 28 Dec 2008, 11:54

Do you know where the damage is etc on the manifold. Personally i would replace the system on the car. Who is to say that the repair will last and then you are back to square one. Having just changed the one on my 850 t 5 and did'nt find it that difficult.

Post by **Volvo_240_Atari_2600** » 28 Dec 2008, 12:22

carp,

Thanks for the input.
I am going to take a look and post back as to where the break or crack is.

How long did it take to replace yours? I take it you did it yourself?

Thanks

carp-guru · Post by **carp-guru** » 28 Dec 2008, 17:53

Around three hrs inc taking / drawing the turbo back as well, . It was better than spending £120+VAT at the dealer, they wanted six hrs to do the job.

turbotim2 · Post by **turbotim2** » 29 Dec 2008, 06:01

If the flex pipe part of the manifold is broken (usually the case), you have to replace to whole manifold. This is a poor design of a part in my opinion but it is what it is. I broke three bolts off in the block while replacing mine, keep this in mind as you will need means to remove them if this happens to you.

Post by **Volvo_240_Atari_2600** » 31 Dec 2008, 09:09

OK...

I decided to buy a new manifold. However, before making the investment, I went to the local salvage yard and found a wrecked 97 850 with a very clean manifold that I thought could be a better value. Also... I figured on practice on the junker before trying it on my wife's car and possibly regretting ever taking on the task myself.

I was able only to remove the four nuts securing the flex part to the cat pipe.

Being these cars are all propped up a litle higher than being with all four wheels off the ground, iI had troble getting the manifold off the junker.

1. I had a regular 3/4 socket (no breaker bar, or pipe for leverage)

2. because the car is higher than it normally sits, did not have a step ladder for better leverage from above.

Question...

Is it easier to remove the 12 nuts from the manifold to head from bellow? or from above in the engine compartment?
Do I want to use a 1/2 drive/breaker bar for this?

I read a thread from bay13 and it looks as if I would need to remove the SAS valve to get to some of the nuts.

Besides that and the heat shield, is there anything else that should come out in order to easliy access the 12 nuts securing the manifold to the engine?

Also... Is there a specific torque sequence? and what is the torque tightening specification for these nuts?

Any links to a write up with photos would be greatly appreciated... If they are not available, but with clear detail on how I can do this, I will gladly do my part in submitting step by step pics on this job.

Thank you.
Eric

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 31 Dec 2008, 10:03

This is from the '97 850 section of VADIS (for non-turbo's). I hope that it helps:

850 Exhaust Manifold.pdf: (988.97 KiB) Downloaded 732 times

Post by **Volvo_240_Atari_2600** » 03 Jan 2009, 20:23

HELP!!!!!

What a day... After an interuption here and there here is what I accomplished.

I did all three mounts/bushings... I did the polyurethane bushing on the top. Then I did the Lower front torque mount (the one that looks like a belt buckle) and the last but not least the lower right mount (the one by the crank pulley).

So I proceed to replace the exhaust manifold with one I picked up at the junk yard. I should have listened to carp-guru and bought a new one... FCP had two that ended on Ney Years Day on ebay for a starting bid of $199 w. free shipping. Did I do that NO... I was cheap and thought I'd get a deal.

Anyway... 5 hours later, new exhaust manifold gaskets, manifold to cat pipe gasket, and a broken something from my heater hose...

Yes... In trying to get that stupid SAS thing off the manifold to be able to maneuver it around and get it out, I hit the lower hose on the fire wall that leads to the heater core... It has a yellow clip, sort of a locking retainer of some sort... Now it gushes coolant when you start the engine.

Did I mention the car is lowder now? Sounds like a bike and I cannot tell where the exaust sound is coming from.

I reconnected everithing except for the heat shield and the flex hose since I know I need room to work on that lower plastic heater hose housing.

Does anyone know what this thing is?
Is this seviceable top or bottom or is it replaced as a unit?
Is it a joint, between the heater hoses and the metal tubes inside the car that I guess are part of the heater core?

If it is a joint, I will search at my salvage place tomorrow... If this is alot more that I can deal with on a Sunday can I just bypass the heater??? Run one hose (universal) at the bloc (ilet-outlet) as I cannot afford to let this car sit. I can deal with the noise for a couple of days... I am considering taking it to a mechanic for the exhaust.

Thanks

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 03 Jan 2009, 21:56

Afraid that hose is one piece that goes through the firewall and connects to the heater core. You're going to have to get in under the dash to either reattach it or replace it....not sure how badly you "broke" it. If you're in there anyway, you might as well replace the heater core as preventative maintenance. These will all go one time or another on these cars. I am including a diagram of those hoses from within the engine bay. You'll see that they are one piece. I'll then try to find you a diagram of how they are inside the cabin...and hopefully after this a write-up on the heater core replacement itself. Anyway, this first diagram should get you started (I've blown up just the hoses in question that are on the left side). Oh, and where there are different part numbers for parts, the first number given is always the correct number for your particular car

: Heater Core hoses.jpg (117.71 KiB) Viewed 1349 times

Those hoses attach to the "heater core coupler" within the cabin once they get past the firewall (the item just to the right of #39 in the diagram below):

: Heater Core Hoses 2.jpg (37.55 KiB) Viewed 1347 times

The diagram comes from http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartsResults.aspx if you want to check out the entire diagram and parts. Also, other related parts (including the heater core) are here: http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartsResults.aspx
And, the heater core replacement write-up is here: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=9717
If you are not a member of volvospeed and can't see the above link, let me know.

Good luck with this...don't get too frustrated. You can only do what you can do in one night anyway. Get a good night's rest and tackle what you can tomorrow.
-MIJ

turbotim2 · Post by **turbotim2** » 04 Jan 2009, 06:02

I think the heater hoses are quick release fittings (someone may have mentioned that already). can you try to pull the leaking hose out and then push it back in to reseat the fitting? Maybe when you hit it, you released part of the fitting? Just a thought before replacing the system.