v70-850 Exhaust Manifold Question

[MadeInJapan]

I'm thinking of that too, but typically, unless you're under that section of the dash, it is hard to tell if it is fit plumb or not. So, going under the dash (which doesn't mean pulling it all) seems prudent (unless you want coolant all over your floor and that wonderfully sweet smell as you drive!).

[Volvo_240_Atari_2600]

OK...
It's almost 3PM and I have to pick up the wife from work at 8PM so I am about to tackle this again.

I bought a universal 3/4" heater hose to run a temporary bypass in case "turbotim's" suggestion fails as I hate to think negative which equals expenses... I am afrait I may have broken part of the fitting (either externaly which is the coplre/housing or inside the yellow fittings etc)

However I am going to do the exhaust again... I will replace the used manifold I bought with my original again... I did not run the car for days or hours after installing it. Started the car and

Bla Bla Bla Bla Bla Blam like a loud harley sitting next to you at a light...

If you were to trade for a temporary solution, wouldn't you go back to the old manifold which had a

Tic Tic Tic Tic exhaust leak sound?

Amazing thing is that it looked solid, looked almost new as the nuts were almost new... The loud sound seemed as if there was a major break or opening in the exhaust manifold creating that loud sound.

Hope the gaskets are not compromised for the replacement today and I think I will buy a brand new one after this.

Hope I can get this done in the next 3 hours w/o any interruptions.

Thanks

[Volvo_240_Atari_2600]

MIJ...

Thank you for that diagram...
Like I said in the last post, I will check to see if the fitting or housing is not just out of place... If not, may have to invest in the housing and or fittings next week.

Thanks again.
eric

[MadeInJapan]

It may just be unplugged and you can push it back in and it snaps in place- but are Volvo's ever that simple? You'll know by the coolant in the floorboard very quickly if this doesn't work.
Good luck with everything- keep us updated!
-MIJ

[Volvo_240_Atari_2600]

MIJ...

Tha saga continues, but there is good news along with a little bad news.

Good News first!
I removed the (salvaged) exhaust manifold... Thought it had a severe problem so I was going to replace with the old one that started giving at the flex pipe.

The problem was I installed the gasket to cyl # 5 backwards so I pulled it, looked it over, found the problem and reinstalled within 2.5 hours and that included capping off both heater hoses from the fire wall and runing a temporary bypass hose at the block.

I'm in Florida so my wife will survive w/o the heater.

Bad news...
I did break something in that coupling on the fire wall. So I am like you... I'f I'm in there already, may as well do the rest. but I will probably to that later on this month as I have a busy January ahead of me.

I pulled the lower hose out, reinstalled gently and still... Leaking like a siv any time I opened the resevoir.

Second piece of bad news... I need the two lower motor mounts... The ones filled with a smelly oil. The one in the back leaked on me and the front has not yet leaked, but the rubber is so cracked and aged.

From what I have read recently, I don't think anyone here has ever replaced any of those. Or am I mistaken?

If so... How difficult a job is that and what is the average shop labor for that job in case I had to have my local volvo guy take that on?

Thank you once again for your patience and eagerness to help! You are a life saver and everyone else on this board.

Take care.
Eric

[MadeInJapan]

Glad to hear of your progress today. You've come this far and have tackled a fairly difficult job...I am confident you have the skills to do the subframe mounts on your own too. To be honest, I don't recall anyone here ever saying they have done this, but also never heard anyone here or elsewhere say it wasn't possible as a DIY job. For the one under the timing belt, you have to jack up the engine just a smidgen. To do this, the easiest way is to put a 2x4 under the oil pan and use a floor jack. To do the subframe mounts, you also have to do this but disconnect the mount (rear and then front- if considering that the rear of the car is the rear). So, my suggestion is to put the car up on ramps, put a floor jack under the oil pan (as described above), disconnect the mount under the timing belt and use another floor jack to gently lower the subframe after you've detached the engine from it. Then you will be able to do the hydraulic mount on the backside. Once the rear mount is in place, jacked back up and attached to the frame of the car, you do the same thing for the subframe mount at the front of the car (I believe you have to disconnect the motor to transmission mount to accomplish this, but even so, that's an easy one). After these are both done, then reinstall the motor to transmission mount and the one under the timing belt, button up everything and you're done. I would say 2 hours- maybe 3 to do this unless you run into bolts that don't budge, etc. I have no idea what the shop time for this job would be. I suppose you could call your local Volvo dealer and ask them what their book says. If you plan on doing this yourself... start spraying all of the bolts ahead of time with PB Blaster!