Hey guys, new to this site today. I'm also rather new to Volvo, my brother owns a 91 740 n/a wagon auto with approx 220k on the odo. It starts and runs great, there are just some idling issues.
So, first problem is, I think the kickdown cable has snapped, it will not retract after hitting the throttle, no matter how hard I try. I see it's an expensive part as it is, but just how difficult is it to replace it?
Also, does anyone know the part # (or official name of this) to the small adjustable part that goes to the throttle? It connects to two small ball shapes on either end and is threaded in the center? I was trying to adjust it, and the plastic pieces just snapped right off.
Thanks a lot!
740 91 wagon troubles
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.
You have certainly picked a messy one to start with.
You will need an assistant to help with the cable.
Drain the transmission fluid.
Unbolt the dipstick/filler tube from the transmission sump This may be difficult and you may need a large pipe wrench. More fluid will run out.
Unbolt and remove transmission sump (pan). Again more fluid will run out.
Unbolt and remove the transmission filter. More fluid will run out.
You now have access to the cable and transmission insides.
Look in to see where the cable is attached. You should see a cam around which the cable wraps. Carefully turn this with a screwdriver. It's spring loaded so be prepared for it to spring back as you will be rotating it against the return spring. Once rotated to the fully extended "full throttle" position, stick a screwdriver in to wedge it and you should be able to pull the cable end free of its hole. The old cable has a round stop which fits into a recess at the transmission end and is bolted on at the other end.
Remove the cable.
Re-assembling is a reverse of the above. Use a small amount of synthetic grease on the O-ring.
Once installed in the transmission install the upper end and adjust it so it just slackens when the throttle is at idle. You should be able to hear the valve clunk slightly when it slams back to idle. Install the small crimp around the cable core about 1/8" up from the rubber gasket. This crimp is important as it prevents excess cable from entering the transmission and keeps the cable in the pulley groove.
To adjust the cable depress the accelerator pedal. The distance from the end of the outer cable to the crimp should be 1.98" - 2.06".
I see you have now found the throttle part. The plastic cups can be obtained separately if you ever need them again. Also be aware that there are two different control rods depending on the engine type fitted. The B200 engine has a different rod from the B230 engine. If you find the rods are different the plastic cups fit both. One has a left hand thread.
Bill.
You have certainly picked a messy one to start with.
You will need an assistant to help with the cable.
Drain the transmission fluid.
Unbolt the dipstick/filler tube from the transmission sump This may be difficult and you may need a large pipe wrench. More fluid will run out.
Unbolt and remove transmission sump (pan). Again more fluid will run out.
Unbolt and remove the transmission filter. More fluid will run out.
You now have access to the cable and transmission insides.
Look in to see where the cable is attached. You should see a cam around which the cable wraps. Carefully turn this with a screwdriver. It's spring loaded so be prepared for it to spring back as you will be rotating it against the return spring. Once rotated to the fully extended "full throttle" position, stick a screwdriver in to wedge it and you should be able to pull the cable end free of its hole. The old cable has a round stop which fits into a recess at the transmission end and is bolted on at the other end.
Remove the cable.
Re-assembling is a reverse of the above. Use a small amount of synthetic grease on the O-ring.
Once installed in the transmission install the upper end and adjust it so it just slackens when the throttle is at idle. You should be able to hear the valve clunk slightly when it slams back to idle. Install the small crimp around the cable core about 1/8" up from the rubber gasket. This crimp is important as it prevents excess cable from entering the transmission and keeps the cable in the pulley groove.
To adjust the cable depress the accelerator pedal. The distance from the end of the outer cable to the crimp should be 1.98" - 2.06".
I see you have now found the throttle part. The plastic cups can be obtained separately if you ever need them again. Also be aware that there are two different control rods depending on the engine type fitted. The B200 engine has a different rod from the B230 engine. If you find the rods are different the plastic cups fit both. One has a left hand thread.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
You are welcome. Let us know how it goes.
Bill.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
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