SEAFOAM BEWARE...

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 19 Dec 2007, 19:07

Very interesting. I've only heard of it being injected via a vacuum tube to the vacuum tree (thus into the intake).

waynej · Post by **waynej** » 20 Dec 2007, 09:38

I don't get it. On my car there is a corrugated plastic hose between the MAF and the throttle body, this could be softened by the Seafoam. The vacuum T is a much more direct route. I also don't understand what good a borescope will do. The biggest problem is on the back side of the intake valve. Carbon on the inside of the cylinder should be easily burned off by the Italian tuneup or an extended highway trip.

Rustypig · Post by **Rustypig** » 14 Feb 2008, 22:29

I don't mean to poke any eyeballs, but here's my .02

Engine knock doesn't "just appear" in a ten minute time frame without a serious pre-cursor. In this case the only real variable introduced to the engine is Seafoam (a product I fully endorse and I have NEVER believed in miracle in a can fixes). I don't believe it was a massive chunk of carbon causing the problem (you'd have a lot of other issues with THAT much carbon in an engine), but if you hydro-lock a cylinder with ANY liquid (liquids don't compress obvously) it's a gonner. I don't care if it's H20, Seafoam or Pepsi...your going to bend something, and it doesn't have to be running because starter power can be more than enough to crack a fatigued bearing. There's no teacher like this type of serious butt pain though. Next time, if there were any question on the ammount introduced into the engine...pull the plugs, turn it over a couple of times, re-install and drive away into a smokey bliss.

AuburnT5 · Post by **AuburnT5** » 13 Jan 2009, 06:47

I've read this thread as another skeptical reader.

I know I'm unearthing an ancient thread but I want to know what ultimately was the problem as I assume the original poster has either had the car totaled out or fixed.

The Seafoam only making it into cylinder 1 doesn't really make much sense but (and I may have just not read this part) but I didn't see anywhere indicating that the original poster had the engine's rpm's higher than idle (which I've always understood is REQUIRED in order to keep the engine from stalling out).

I'm not sure if whether or not the seafoam was sucked in correctly or not was the culprit. To me, it sounds like there may have been something waiting to break and the seafoam just happened to be the catalyst that caused whatever was loose or on the edge of breaking to finally let go. Quite often it's the gunk that holds stuff together

I know that changing transmission fluid in an automatic after a certain amount of miles can sometimes cause the transmission to slip or not operate correctly.

As far as proper application of Seafoam, I've always seen guys use a 2nd person as a helper to hold the RPM's at 1500~ish while the other person uses a small vacuum line to suck seafoam out of a baby food jar and then as the last bit is being sucked out of the jar, release the throttle and let the car simply stall out as it sucks up the last bit of seafoam.

Then let it sit then crank the car and give it hell for a couple of miles and all is well.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 13 Jan 2009, 16:52

Auburn, your description of how it is done is spot on- the way I do mine. It is also important to do this on an engine that is already warmed up.

Craigd2599 · Post by **Craigd2599** » 14 Jan 2009, 13:02

It sounds like you hydrauliced #1 and punched a hole in the piston. I never use seafoam. I like GM top engine cleaner and I just pour it in the tank. That stuff is aces.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Jan 2009, 14:45

There continues to be a great deal of confusion about adding Seafoam to the intake. It is very easy and I took a few pictures when I did my turbo a couple of weeks ago.

Step 1: Pour 1/3 can in the crankcase and then drive the car around for 15 minutes or so.

Step 2: Remove the cover over the throttle, it takes a T-25 torx bit.

: Removing the throttle cover.; DSC02452.JPG (216.21 KiB) Viewed 2438 times

Step 3: Locate the vacuum tree.

: The vacuum tree is the plastic piece that the white line leads to.; DSC02454.JPG (212.32 KiB) Viewed 2437 times

Step 4: Either remove any line or one of the block off covers and hook up a section of vacuum line to it. The idle on the car will jump a bit, this is normal.

Step 5: Stick the open end of the vacuum line into the Seafoam and allow it to be sucked in. You do this in short spurts. The engine will stumble quite a bit and want to die as you add it but just allow a few seconds between each slurp for the idle to steady. Suck in 1/3rd of the can and then shut the engine off for 10 minutes or so.

: The open end of the added vacuum line to be used to suck in the Seafoam.; DSC02455.JPG (210.15 KiB) Viewed 2436 times

I took this opportunity to go ahead and change the oil and filter. Remove the added Seafoam vacuum line and replace whatever you removed from the vacuum tree. Replace the throttle cover.

Start the car and rev it or drive it until the smoke clears.

...Lee

Craigd2599 · Post by **Craigd2599** » 30 Jan 2009, 08:45

You all might want to consider GM Top Engine Cleaner instead of Seafoam. The stuff is miraculous

Post by **renns** » 14 Nov 2009, 21:28

I just experienced exactly the same problem as this guy. If using SeaFoam, use extreme caution - and do not try to stall the motor as I did! Here's the story:

I have a fairly high mileage 850 that is using more oil than I'd like. In an attempt to reduce that somewhat, I thought I'd give the SeaFoam treatment a try. I connected a hose to a spare vacuum port on the tree that's under the plastic cover by the throttle body. I held the throttle open a bit with one hand, and dipped the hose in and out as described elsewhere. After about 1/3 can was used, I stuck the hose in all the way, and let the throttle drop back to idle. I was expecting it to stall at this point, but it ran, albeit rough, and drank the entire can of Seafoam without ever stalling. At this point the engine was shut off, and let to sit for 15 minutes or so.

Upon start-up, the engine ran rough, smoked, and had very loud top-end clatter. The top-end noise subsided a bit, and I went for a spirited drive in the country to let the smoke dissipate. I was hoping the noise would disappear, and it did get a bit better, but was still present. Upon return, the noise was still there, although now sounding like one lifter rather than half a dozen. I had to make a 100 mile round-trip drive last night, so I took the 850, hoping time would loosen that lifter. Unfortunately, it's still there upon return.

I've changed out to fresh 10w30 and a new Mann filter. After another 50 miles or so today, the tick is still there. I'm hoping it's a hydraulic lifter problem rather than rod bearing problem. For reference, the engine runs the same as before from a smoothness and power standpoint. It's just that annoying tick that's a concern. At highway speeds it's only barely detectable from inside the car. At low speeds, or in the garage, it's much more noticeable.

Japedo · Post by **Japedo** » 14 Nov 2009, 21:38

Maybe try adding an extra 1/2 litre of oil to your engine, in attempt to build the pressure up nd get that lifter quieted down.
I wouldn't drive the car for long with extra oil in it, but a few miles won't hurt. THen drain a bit out or do an oil change. Good luck

curtis