No more air to the feet on 97' 850 wagon with ECC

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 31 Jan 2009, 13:40

I think you understand it right...it is normally closed (no air to the floor), so set your ECC to no air on the floor and then tie the split part up (not with open to the floor).

EDIT: I looked at your pictures again. Now as I understand it, you can repair the piece and then slip the motor in, so no worries. Just tie it up and you should be good to go. If the motor is off, then fiddle with it until the controls do what it's suppose to do and then button everything back up after that. Sorry for the confusion- I was under the impression that you couldn't install the motor with the shaft fixed.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 31 Jan 2009, 14:01

Py,

Please also, if you can, take a picture of your repair after you have finished it and post it back. Your picture of the split shaft is the best I have seen beyond my own eyes and I would like to add this to the repair database along with the resolution. The best way to describe the best repairs I have heard of on the split shaft is to take a look at the joints on a fishing rod and replicate it with a fine gauge solid copper wire.

...Lee

Py · Post by Py » 01 Feb 2009, 01:29

Ozark Lee,

I would be glad to help the repair database!

Regarding the repair, I did measure the split shaft, and it is exactly 10mm on the outside. So what I intended to do was to glue the broken half back in place using epoxy, and then have it surrounded by a solid piece of metal (with a few drops of epoxy, too). Maybe it is not the easiest DIY way to do the repair, but I feel like it is the most robust way to fix it.

I'll post pictures of it afterwards.

Py · Post by Py » 01 Feb 2009, 05:55

The repair is done!

Looking in the shop for a suitable piece of scrap metal (I was going to machine one), I came across the perfect item for this purpose: a bronze bushes. It has the exact required dimensions without any machining (inner: 10mm, outer: 16mm, length: 20mm).

It is such a perfect fit that I just had to insert it around the split shaft (just a little bit of pressure was needed), and the repair was done!

Then it was just a matter of remounting the motor (following MIJ advice to properly align the motor with the "idle" shaft position first, eg all air to the windshield (selector at 12 o'clock)) and the glove box. I also cleared the DTC for the ECC. I'll check in a few days if they're gone for good.

The bronze bushes is such a perfect fit for the repair that I would advise anyone to do it this way. I cannot think of an easier process either. It is a standard dimensions bushes that should be easy to find, at least in any "metric" country.

I've 2 more such bushes lying around. If you need one and cannot locate it, just ask using a PM, and I'll send you one.

On a side note, here is how the clips for the glove box lid look like. Knowing how it is built makes it easier to figure out how to apply pressure with a small screwdriver, at least for me. A previous owner already had tried to unclip them, and only managed to scratch the plastic...

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 01 Feb 2009, 06:33

Pinned in the repair database!
Thanks Py!
-MIJ

hammertime · Post by **hammertime** » 01 Feb 2009, 13:41

Py,
Nice pix and nice fix! I made this repair on my '96 last fall. Not being as well equipped as you I did the repair with a dab of gorilla glue and a twist of wire. A small hose clamp might also do the trick if you could get the screwdriver under there to tighten it. I had the glove box and knee bolster removed again yesterday to replace the blower motor. (no more bagpipe drone from the ECC) Being a carpenter I found the best tool for unclipping the glove box supports is my small nailset, just press it in the hole and the clips pop right out.

...HT

jinglebuddy · Post by **jinglebuddy** » 21 Feb 2009, 15:33

Hi,
I really liked the metal sleeve to go over the plastic thing, so I made one myself since I was experiencing the same problem. I was just about to install it when it came to me that I should probably test the motor first. Turned out the motor does not turn at all wherever the vent position is set on the ECC control. I observed it a bit more carefully, and motor turns only when the ignition is initially turned on from off position, and turns only clockwise (the shaft facing towards me) for about 5 seconds, that's it. Have you any idea what it means?

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 23 Feb 2009, 14:41

I found a pen barrel that was a perfect fit, a dab of super glue, and Bob's your Uncle..

milesursogood · Post by **milesursogood** » 12 Dec 2009, 22:16

removing the damper motor and the glove box door arm/hinge is a pita. does anyone have an easier way to access the bottom screw of the damper motor. nm the back screw, mine is already broke. the areas around the glove box mounting holes, glove box door arm, the floor/defrost damper shaft, damper motor screw mounts are now all brittle. in my case, the floor/defrost damper shaft completely broke-off when i removed the damper motor as you see in the image. the plastic material which these parts consist of has gone brittle under varying conditions, and the damper shaft is in no way robust enough or have enough overlap w/ the steel rod from the motor to withstand fatigue and repeated load from the damper w/ that amount of surface area. i have never completely disassemble the dash panel nor a car vent system. has anyone replaced this damper, and where i might find a replacement part? thanks.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 13 Dec 2009, 07:35

Bummer,

It is time to get real creative or the dash is coming out to fix it. Yanking the dash is not really as intimidating as it looks but you need to book a full weekend to do it. You will find other problems along the way that you will need to address.

...Lee

No more air to the feet on 97' 850 wagon with ECC

Re: No more air to the feet on 97' 850 wagon with ECC