1993 850 clutch replacement required/worth it?

Dietmar · Post by **Dietmar** » 12 Feb 2009, 07:49

The car has 155k miles, clutch had been replaced at 85k.

I need to depress the clutch pedal all the way to the floor in order to engage the clutch. Little annoying when doing a lot of city driving, and I am not sure how smoothly our au pair is getting those gears in now...

Oddly, though perhaps not a real problem, the clutch pedal often doesn't come up all the way when released - only about half way, as if it gets stuck. But I can always pull it up and after warming up it moves better. I can sense that the spring resistance when depressing for the upper half of the way down is much less.

There is some oil leakage from the engine right above the transmission, and the a/c is shot (evaporator corroded and there might be issues with the a/c controls, as well). I like the car, but at some point I have to be willing to let go. Too bad I had the transmission replaced 5k miles ago... What's your advice? Thank you!

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 12 Feb 2009, 10:03

I think I would try bleeding the slave cylinder first. It works off of the brake fluid so keep an eye on the brake fluid level as you do it.

...Lee

bobsnow100 · Post by **bobsnow100** » 12 Feb 2009, 14:20

I agree with Ozark Lee.
Check the slave cylinder. If the clutch doesn't slip when accelerating than it is probably that. They are not too expensive. They go bad and will start leaking as the fluid can break done over years, It's brake fluid

Dietmar · Post by **Dietmar** » 12 Feb 2009, 14:53

Alright - I called my shop and will bring it tomorrow morning. I had them look at it a few weeks ago but they said that I should have gotten it replaced when I got the new transmission. They are probably right either way, but I guess they should have tried bleeding it right away then if that's all that's needed (and perhaps replacing the slave cylinder).

Thank you for your input - I'll let you know the results!

Dietmar · Post by **Dietmar** » 13 Feb 2009, 07:52

Just returned from the shop. The mechanic didn't find any leak on the cylinders. He bled the slave cylinder, but he didn't use any pump for pressure or vacuum. I was just assisting by pressing and lifting the clutch pedal to his instructions.

It improved the situation somewhat, but his boss, after a test ride, thinks I need a new clutch anyway because it still grabs very close to the floor. He is getting me a quote on the job and parts next week. How much should that be ($75/h) and is it worth it? I also might opt to finally fix that leak on the head gasket, but that'll be a lot of work they say.

jaluhn · Post by **jaluhn** » 14 Feb 2009, 00:06

Clutch woln't be cheap, pulling the trans on these cars is a bear. I would guess ~8 hours to R&R the trans, plus parts and time for the clutch itself.

Head gasket would be quite a big job too, probably ~10-12 hours, and a fair bit in parts.

All in all, you're going to have to really look at what the cars worth to you, since you've got several thousand in repairs there.

Okay, per the volvo standard time guide, a complete clutch job is 5.5 hours, (plus 0.9 to R&R the flywheel and replace rear main seal) which I find a bit on the low side. The head R&R is listed as 9.1 hours, which also seems a bit low. Plus you'd have parts cost, probably ~$250-300 for the clutch and seals, and ~$500-1000 for the gasket set and parts. (assuming you replace the timing belt and water pump and tune up parts and such at the same time, minimum cost would be just the head set at ~$100-200) Plus rebuilding the head, which would be strongly recommended, say $300.

Total = expensive.

Dietmar · Post by **Dietmar** » 26 Feb 2009, 10:20

I will probably learn to regret it, but I did go with the new clutch. It is driving fine now, and my mechanic said he charged me too little - $730 for parts and labor + tax. I guess I can believe him!

Didn't do the oil leak - I think once the engine is warm it seals itself, and either way it's not leaking so much that will cost me a lot in oil. It's also not leaking onto anything sensitive.

Too bad my mechanic than discovered that he also needs to replace the engine mounts, which will cost me, once it's done, another $350 or so.

Craigd2599 · Post by **Craigd2599** » 26 Feb 2009, 13:56

Are you sure it's the head gasket leakign oil? Has the PCV been serviced?

Post by **wheelsup** » 26 Feb 2009, 20:28

Check the cam seals, they leak and at your years/mileage it's a good candidate for it.

My VW seeps oil out of its HG as well, nothing much you can do, there weren't enough bolts on that side to prevent it from happening. But the head isn't blown (I don't think so, anyway). I'm told "they just do that".

Dietmar · Post by **Dietmar** » 26 Feb 2009, 21:01

I'll bring it up when he gets/replaces the last engine mount (still waiting for 1 of 3).