SAS system options on 1998 S70 T5

Post by **IVIUSTANG** » 14 Feb 2009, 21:46

Hey everyone.

The common problem of the air pump on our cars becoming flooded over time and seizing due to time has caused me to think about it for a few days; as my pump has been seized for over two years and I finally decided that the light on my dash is annoying me.

I don't believe in putting poorly designed OEM parts that are known to fail in my car; thus said not only do I want to solve the water vapour problem, I also want a cheap solution to a $300 air pump problem.

I have figured out two simple ways to eliminate water in the motor, I have decided to invert the electric motor thus disallowing any water to stagnate in the pump as well as integrate a one way valve into the tubing directly aft of the motor.

I have read the VW to Volvo airpump conversion and it is awesome, but doesn't address the root problem of failure; the pumps themselves are fine but don't handle water, simple.

My questioning for you all is, I am trying to find specs of the actual motor used in the air pump(voltage, amperage, RPM etc) This is to aid in a homemade yet far superior part in terms of price and being able to correct other flawed components in the system through only addressing the air pump.

Is anyone able to help me on this, there are no specs written on the part. Also, how sensitive is the SAS to variations in flow rates and power drawing from the motor(I am looking at avoiding the Delta light from illuminating)

Sorry I am very muddled for most people, my questions are:
1. What are the electrical motor specs of the original Volvo airpump?
2. How sensitive is the SAS system to alterations involving power draw and flow rates?

Thanks everyone, this forum rocks

- Jesse

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 14 Feb 2009, 22:59

I haven't got your answers but you have sparked my curiosity.
Are you thinking sealed marine or something similar? I Like the concept!
If you could get a hold of a donor OEM motor, a motor shop or
anyone with an RPM meter should be able to give you speed.
And as long as your replacement doesn't exceed OEM current draw, you should be golden!
There may be some trouble with dimensions, but that should be fixable.

Sounds like a great idea!

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 14 Feb 2009, 23:08

Folks over at Volvospeed have posted a way to completely delete the SAS and secondary blower from their cars: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... pic=109506

Post by **IVIUSTANG** » 15 Feb 2009, 00:21

Thank MadeinJapan great link; there are so many topics on SAS I didn't find that one. That would be a very reasonable option for me as Saskatchewan does not do any emissions testing at all(due to extremely low population density in comparison with say... California).

BEJinFbk, a marine motor never seemed viable to me as my goal is to create a system that would be far cheaper than stock replacement. I may end up doing the SAS delete, but for the sake of those who aren't as fortunate as me geographically, I may proceed with an emissions passable fix. Everything hinges on me getting specs and tolerances of both the motor and SAS system respectively. An approximate CFM measurement would also be awesome for those who are able to help.

Regards,

- Jesse

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 15 Feb 2009, 12:59

The economy thet I see with a bulletproof replacement is Never Having to Deal With it AGAIN! Wouldn't that be nice?
As for the emissions aspect, I live in a bowl on a valley floor. We get temerature inversions and icefog like you wouldn't believe.
If that pump helps? I'm all for it!

jaluhn · Post by **jaluhn** » 15 Feb 2009, 13:12

I'll see if I can come up with anything, I may be able to find a spec for current draw out of VADIS. I don't think it would be too critical though. Really, all you have to do it move enough air to cause the O2 level in the exhaust to rise, I doubt it's that critical. Now, it does need to have sufficient pressure to overcome the exhaust backpressure, which is why the stock fan design is narrow in axial length but relatively large in diameter. It might be possible to figure the theoretical flow and pressure specs of the fan from the dimensions, although you'd need to know the speed too.

I would think that a much easier solution would be simply relocating the fan to a location where it's better shielded from the weather or devising some sort of a shield for it. I'm not sure where it would fit though.

As far as emissions goes, that SAS delete setup would probably past emissions testing as long as the wiring was discreet and the stock air pump and lines where still there. At least in CA, they do a visual inspection or the components, but there is no functional check beyond the gas analysis part, which wouldn't be effected by a lack of SAS under almost all conditions. (maybe the old idle / 2500 rpm test would have trouble at idle, but I think you could get around it by making sure the cat was good and hot first) The main place a lack of SAS functionality would cause problems is by setting fault codes in the ECM, which would then automatically fail the car, but with the mod, it shouldn't set codes.

I understand wanting to improve the system, just making the point that it may not be worth the amount of effort required.
~John

Post by **IVIUSTANG** » 24 Feb 2009, 15:57

With regards to the SAS delete thread at Volvo Speed(http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... pic=109506)

I am having trouble hooking up my 10k potentiometer. It doesn't matter how I hook it up, I always get a consistent 1.55v reading from my D-Cell battery. I have tried every single pin in every single combination, I am not using the same pot as them, but is is nearly identical in specs.

Here is the datasheet for the pot that i am using: http://www.tocos.com/local/pdf/products/RJC097.pdf

I don't understand this at all, I had one wire to the bottom terminal and one to the middle terminal as stated on Volvo Speed and I get full battery voltage no matter what. I have tried two different pots so I don't think anything is defective.

Any help would be awesome.

Thanks,

- Jesse

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 24 Feb 2009, 18:35

Seems you might have a wire crossed or shorted somewhere for the POT not to go its thing?

Post by **IVIUSTANG** » 24 Feb 2009, 18:48

here is a hack job image of how I believe it is supposed to be hooked up. it is a 10k Ohm pot. I am trying to get the voltage to go from 1.55v to between 0.1-0.2 volts. I have checked for short circuits etc... in my mind there is no reason why this shouldn't work???

Any suggestions as to why this will not work?

Thanks,

- Jesse

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 24 Feb 2009, 18:52

I have no idea, though your diagram seems straight forward- Why didn't you get the POT that was used on V.S.? If you can't get it, why not go to radio shack an find one that will do what you want it to do? The guys there will even hook up a battery and help you test one until you get your desired results.