New volvo owner here and i could use some help.
I bought a 2000 s80 with a bad valve,i reconditioned
the head and im getting ready to put it all back together.
I cant figure out how to put the cams back in,with there always
being pressure on some of the lobes.Do you use the top half of the head as a press to put them in?I dont know im stuck here,
i bought a manual online and it gives no info on the subject.
Also this was one of the toughest jobs ive ever done,there is no room to work on the timing belt side.
Need help with camshaft
Your going to love this. Without the "Volvo" tools you may be in trouble. Short answer is Yes, upper cover needs to be bolted down evenly to compress and align cams. The fun part is if you have variable cam timing and have removed the cam sprockets. Getting them on correctly is near impossible with out "special tools. If you search this web site you will find a lot of info on what is involved to finish your job.
thats what i figured that i would need some speciality tools.
in the vadis manual that i have it shows how the cams are placed in the head,intake slot offset above centerline and the exhaust slot below centerline.the picture shows the slots angling downward maybe 10-15 degrees,is that how they are when the sprockets get lined up or do they get trued up to the split?Im a machinist and was going to try and make the alignment tool myself.
in the vadis manual that i have it shows how the cams are placed in the head,intake slot offset above centerline and the exhaust slot below centerline.the picture shows the slots angling downward maybe 10-15 degrees,is that how they are when the sprockets get lined up or do they get trued up to the split?Im a machinist and was going to try and make the alignment tool myself.
The alignment tool holds the camshafts in place while the t-belt and sprockets are installed. If you have the exhaust cam variable timing sprocket, you will find it spring loaded. Means, with cam locked in place, you will compress spring in the sprocket with large torx fastener clock-wise, till it stops, and lock it down will bolts in adjustment slots. May take a couple of tries to decifer directions, but is actually fairly simple. You might want to look at the crank locking tool also, as it keeps the crank from rolling while you are adjusting the exhaust sprocket and ensures the valve/crank timing.
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vegasjetskier
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This thread has scans of the Haynes manual that show how to make your own tools.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... c&start=20
Camshaft locker:
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/8596 ... 004qz9.jpg
Crank blocker:
http://img144.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... 006tq6.jpg
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... c&start=20
Camshaft locker:
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/8596 ... 004qz9.jpg
Crank blocker:
http://img144.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... 006tq6.jpg
.
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
wow,thanks guys this is big step forward for me.Ill be able to make this stuff up this week.Ive done this to other cars in the past mostly american and 2 bmw's.This is my first dual cam engine and its been quite a learning experience.
Well i finally got the car together this weekend.Id like
to thank you guys for the help,the car runs like a top.
This whole process actually turned out to be easier than i
thought once i made up the fixtures to put it all together.
The scans from the haynes manual saved the day.After assembled everything the car still had a miss,i drove around for
about 10 mi so i could get a read on the new plugs.It turned out that the coil on cyl 4 was bad,and that was the cyl that had the burned exhaust valve. I wonder how long it took for not having any spark to danage the valve train.Also i tried comparing ohm readings from the bad coil and the good ones and couldnt come up with any different readings.I wonder how you can bench test them.
to thank you guys for the help,the car runs like a top.
This whole process actually turned out to be easier than i
thought once i made up the fixtures to put it all together.
The scans from the haynes manual saved the day.After assembled everything the car still had a miss,i drove around for
about 10 mi so i could get a read on the new plugs.It turned out that the coil on cyl 4 was bad,and that was the cyl that had the burned exhaust valve. I wonder how long it took for not having any spark to danage the valve train.Also i tried comparing ohm readings from the bad coil and the good ones and couldnt come up with any different readings.I wonder how you can bench test them.
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