Timing Belt Tensioner How To?

WarWagon · Post by **WarWagon** » 26 Mar 2009, 19:23

I have the tensioner that looks more like a pulley than the "rod style" one (pictured in the Haynes Manual). How do I set that thing back in there to make it work? I see the casting marks on the engine block where the tabs set next to it with the tensioner installed. Also, there is a lever on the pulley that seems to off set the center of the pulley when slid over but the tensioner/pulley doesn't move much. Finally, if someone has a diagram on how to route the belt that would be great because it looks like I did it correctly but it is no where near making it around the tensioner the way I'm looking at it. Any tricks or trade secrets are appreciated.

bigric · Post by **bigric** » 26 Mar 2009, 20:57

It's actually pretty easy; people make it out to be a lot harder than it really is. Here you go courtesy of VS:

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/ManualTensioner.php

WarWagon · Post by **WarWagon** » 27 Mar 2009, 16:21

Ok, thanks for the instructions Ric. They seem simple enough but I have wound that thing up at least 6-8 times and the "indicator" that lines up in the "adjustment window" has not moved. Do I need to keep turning? Once again the engineers didn't care about any required maintenance in this area of the engine compartment, not too much room.

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 27 Mar 2009, 16:40

Mike, the instructions were a little confusing to me.

You have to make sure that the "needle" (C) enters the "window" (B) from the right. So you actually have to move the "eccentric" (A) clockwise until the needle is to the right of the window before doing as the instructions say and moving the eccentric counter-clockwise so that the needle enters the window from the right. Also, start with the eccentric at the 10:00 O'Clock position prior to moving it clockwise.

You just have to guesstimate the final placement within the window based upon the ambient temperature. There is no exact way to do it, but you need to try to get close.

Look in the box your belt came in, there should be a diagram of the proper belt placement. I got the Conti belt from FCP and there was one of those in the box. You can also go to Eeuroparts.com, enter your model, and go the the "engine timing" category in the drop down box. There will be a diagram there also.

I noticed your model shows the hydraulic tensioner instead of the mechanical tensioner, but I think the belt routing is the same. You can look at a later model, 2000 for instance, to see the routing with a mechanical tensioner.

Let us know how it goes.....

WarWagon · Post by **WarWagon** » 27 Mar 2009, 17:14

Calvin, man my head just exploded. But I'm sitting inside and not looking at it right now. It seems like the spring in the assembly doesn't offset the pulley enough. I am using the belt that was on on it before the head gasket crapped out. Now it looks like the darn thing shrunk a foot in the past month, since disassembly for a new head. So close on this project being done and this is becoming the butt kicker. Thanks for the quick response. I have a picture of the dilemna, can't figure out how to attach it to the reply.

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 27 Mar 2009, 17:37

Maybe you need to sleep on it and get a fresh start tomorrow.

I fiddled with my tensioner until it seemed like it had lost its tension also. I just took it off and start over. When I started all over again and did as previously posted, it worked perfectly.

It will make sense when you're back out there looking at it or at least looking at the diagram on Volvospeed.

1. insure that the center tensioner mounting screw is snug and the eccentric (or the allen shaped hole in the eccentric to be exact) is at the 10 O'Clock position
2. using the allen wrench, move the eccentric clockwise (which will move the needle (C) to the right). If I recall correctly, if you keep moving it clockwise it will stop and go no further when the needle is at about the 2 O'Clock position.
3. Once the needle is to the right of the window (B) then you may move it back counter-clockwise so that the needle enters the window (B) from the right side and stop at the correct position as show in the diagram for the ambient temperature. If you go too far to the left, start over again at step 1.
4. when the needle is in the correct position, hold the eccentric immoble with the allen wrench while tightening the tensioner's center mounting screw per the spec.

Be patient. It will work.

WarWagon · Post by **WarWagon** » 27 Mar 2009, 21:07

You were right I took a break and had my neighbor come down for a sanity check. After convincing myself that I knew what I was reading, I let him read it, looked at the routing of the belt then figured it out. The directions were perfect and worked as advertised. Looks like the Wagon will be running by tomorrow after a final check of all connections and a topping off of fluids. Thanks so much for your help, much appreciated.

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 28 Mar 2009, 14:53

Glad it helped. It feels good to finally defeat that thing (I know)!

brb · Post by **brb** » 04 Apr 2009, 20:52

Just what I needed. Thanks! My 2001 S40 deviates significantly from the depictions in the U.K. Haynes manual.

Post by **LamboSE5** » 11 Feb 2012, 07:08

C@lvin wrote:I noticed your model shows the hydraulic tensioner instead of the mechanical tensioner, but I think the belt routing is the same. You can look at a later model, 2000 for instance, to see the routing with a mechanical tensioner.

Let us know how it goes.....

Uh, sooo. Which is it? What is this thread about (O.P.)? I'm looking for the help necessary to understand what I'm doing with the Mechanical Tensioner in a day or so.
That sentence just confused me...