Vacuum leak at connection on Intake tube to Turbo

Mike-Halewai · Post by **Mike-Halewai** » 06 May 2009, 16:36

Replaced my fuel pressure regulator due to low pressure at the schraeder valve on the end of the fuel rail when at idle.

New FPR didn't solve this problem. Somehow in the midst of messing with cleaning the Throttle Body I realized that the Black plastic air tube that runs from the air cleaner to the turbo has a junction point with another hose. This hose has a vacuum elbo at the bottom end of it... where it attaches to the air cleaner-turbo hose.

However this junction point is very compromised, to the point that it looks like there may have been a stem off the tube to the turbo in the past that somehow broke-off, etc.

At this point the small hose is just sitting on the air-cleaner-turbo hose where there is an opening. Somebody has caked form-a-gasket at this junction point...

Is there anyone that able to post a diagram of what this area should look like with new parts, perhaps a view from VADIS?

Thanks.

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 06 May 2009, 19:13

850TurboAirCleaner1994-1.pdf: (153.99 KiB) Downloaded 213 times

850TurboIntakeManifold1994-1.pdf: (161.99 KiB) Downloaded 275 times

850TurboCrankcaseVentilation1994-1.pdf: (132.38 KiB) Downloaded 395 times

Mike-Halewai · Post by **Mike-Halewai** » 06 May 2009, 19:49

Thanks Vegasjetski for posting the images. The 3rd .pdf shows the hose identified as #21 - that the tube/hose that I am speaking of. And the loose hose is number six that runs from the front of the engine around the block. This plugs into #8 - these look to connect to the #21 "tube/hose" and the #12 or #22 connector (looking thing) is what is completely loose and allowing a vacuum leak.

Does anyone know if I can replace the #12/#22 connector to an airtight state??

Thanks again.

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 06 May 2009, 20:07

You might be able to plastic weld it: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=41592

Or maybe you can put a nice bead of JB Weld around it. If you try this method, make sure you rough up the plastic first with a file or sandpaper to give the epoxy a way to stick to the plastic.

I once welded a plastic part with just a soldering iron and no filler material. It can be done - but you have to very careful not to make the hole bigger. Just apply the tip alternately to each side of the crack until the material softens then push it toward the crack. If the plastic turns liquid you held the iron on too long. Repeat until you get a "blend" of the two sides, then run the tip up and down along the blended area to fuse it together. It's easier to do that to describe. It won't work on very thin material because you will just melt through and create a new hole. You might be able to cut some filler material from one end of the tube - maybe up by the air cleaner end there is extra material and you can cut a small strip off.

Mike-Halewai · Post by **Mike-Halewai** » 06 May 2009, 20:31

In my case I'm happy putting out the $ to make it new. to replace in order to repair, can I replace the connector, or do I also need to replace the hole large tube/hose?? I simply don't want to JB weld (I have used it lot's in the past) and have another problem again in the future, etc.

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 06 May 2009, 20:36

Mike-Halewai wrote:In my case I'm happy putting out the $ to make it new. to replace in order to repair, can I replace the connector, or do I also need to replace the hole large tube/hose?? I simply don't want to JB weld (I have used it lot's in the past) and have another problem again in the future, etc.

I don't know. Hopefully MIJ will chime in here . . .

If you do have to replace the large tube, I would imagine it would be rather expensive from a dealer.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 06 May 2009, 21:19

A pain I know to dish out that kind of money but you might check with Jamie or Don at Waltrip Volvo for probably the best savings on that accordion hose- it has the PTC nipple already installed on it. Otherwise, if you're going to do patch work I would use RTV silicone instead of JB weld on this part-- the ability for it to flex some I think would be important and would not only keep a seal but would stay in place longer.

Mike-Halewai · Post by **Mike-Halewai** » 06 May 2009, 22:02

Thanks guys... I will do some price checking, etc. tomorrow.

I've got a local used parts dealer that may perhaps have this part in good condition at a reasonable price.

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 06 May 2009, 22:06

You can also try www.vandsautodismantlers.com and www.erievovo.com