Right (passenger) side Control Arm replacement problem

mosearch · Post by **mosearch** » 23 May 2009, 12:54

Can anyone suggest the proper wrench(es) or method for removal and replacement of the right (passenger) side Control Arm?...
My problem is access to the second bolt from the front..as you can see from the pictures the engine oil sump prevents access with a socket, and the pressed metal eye (towing point?) prevents any convenient access with a box wrench.

: IMG_0021.JPG (203.84 KiB) Viewed 1186 times

: IMG_0017.JPG (159.87 KiB) Viewed 1180 times

Do I need a special boomerang box wrench?
Or should I just cut that odd eye away and use my standard box wrench?
What is that dang eye used for anyway?

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 23 May 2009, 13:01

I couldn't find directions for your car when I looked yesterday, but for my car it says to loosen the mounts and jack the engine up.

Can you get a box-end wrench up in there sideways and just let it lay on top of the subframe while you turn the nuts from the other side?

mosearch · Post by **mosearch** » 23 May 2009, 13:37

vegasjetskier wrote:I couldn't find directions for your car when I looked yesterday, but for my car it says to loosen the mounts and jack the engine up.

Can you get a box-end wrench up in there sideways and just let it lay on top of the subframe while you turn the nuts from the other side?

Thanks for all the help, VJS;
I can't turn the "nuts" from other side because the other side is one of those 2-bolt bushing assembly mounts.
I suppose I'll have to loosen mounts and jack it up...which will be a good time to assess the wear on those mounts, I suppose.

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 23 May 2009, 14:01

mosearch wrote:
vegasjetskier wrote:I couldn't find directions for your car when I looked yesterday, but for my car it says to loosen the mounts and jack the engine up.

Can you get a box-end wrench up in there sideways and just let it lay on top of the subframe while you turn the nuts from the other side?
Thanks for all the help, VJS;
I can't turn the "nuts" from other side because the other side is one of those 2-bolt bushing assembly mounts.
I suppose I'll have to loosen mounts and jack it up...which will be a good time to assess the wear on those mounts, I suppose.

I found some directions.

1. In order to remove the control arm-to-subframe bolts, it's necessary to raise the engine approximately 25mm. Pull the plastic cover on top of the engine straight up from its mountings.

2. Undo the bolts securing the engine cross-stay to the brackets on the suspension turrets.

3. Position a workshop jack under the engine sump, with a block of wood on the jack head to preotect the sump casing.

4. Undo the bolts securing the right-hand engine mounting to the cylinder block.

5. Undo the bolts/nuts securing the front engine tie-rod and rear mounting pad to the subframe.

6. Use the jack to raise the engine approximately 25 mm to access the control arm inner bolts. Undo the bolts and maneuver the arm from the car. Note that new bolts will be required.

Post by **holler1** » 24 May 2009, 13:23

I looked at mine today, and before doing all that raising work, I would first try to get a boxed end wrench in there with the "handle" above and to the right. The amount of turn might be limited but it looks like there is room to turn it 10 degrees or so.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 24 May 2009, 19:21

I would be tempted to use a crow's foot socket and not raise the oil pan on that bolt.

mosearch · Post by **mosearch** » 24 May 2009, 20:53

Does ANYBODY know what that pressed metal eye-tab is for? I would certainly not use it for towing...but does it perform some magic function that eludes me?

mosearch · Post by **mosearch** » 24 May 2009, 20:55

MadeInJapan wrote:I would be tempted to use a crow's foot socket and not raise the oil pan on that bolt.

These bolts are really really tight. I doubt a crow's foot would fit in there and be able to move them at all.

mosearch · Post by **mosearch** » 24 May 2009, 20:57

holler1 wrote:I looked at mine today, and before doing all that raising work, I would first try to get a boxed end wrench in there with the "handle" above and to the right. The amount of turn might be limited but it looks like there is room to turn it 10 degrees or so.

No standard box wrench will fit at an angle that would allow more than about 7 degrees of movement, and even then, there's no way to get your hand in there to move it....and these are very tight bolts.

mosearch · Post by **mosearch** » 24 May 2009, 20:59

Am I the first guy on this forum to actually try replacing the 4-bolt control arms ? In real life, I mean...

Maybe I better get out the camera and make a DIY of it...