1999 V70 XC - Oil Light Flickering/Staying On, Noisy Top-End

Post by **demian5** » 06 Jul 2009, 16:12

So, I got good help with other stuff, how about this issue. I have heard some stuff it could be, so how can I fix it?

Thanks!

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 06 Jul 2009, 16:16

If you've got low oil pressure and noisy lifters, chances are the oil sump o-rings are bad.

Post by **demian5** » 06 Jul 2009, 16:22

What is the fix? Pull the pan and pick-up tube and replace the o-rings?

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 06 Jul 2009, 16:26

I'm not really familiar on it all, would be good to let others chime in!

I'm pretty sure it is an ok DIY job, although very messy. I think it's pretty simple like you said, but again... expert =/= me.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 06 Jul 2009, 19:42

I'm not sure how much the XC messes with access but on a plain vanilla 850 it isn't that tough. You need the sump O ring kit - I have one on my desk and it appears to have part number 30750783 (the scribbles are not that legible and it could be 30750283) for an 850 and the anaerobic sealer to form the gasket. The hardest part with an automatic is bending the ATF cooler lines out of the way to remove the sump.

Pay attention to the length of the bolts as you remove them as there are several different lengths that need to go back in their original positions.

...Lee

Post by **demian5** » 11 Jul 2009, 18:37

Does the pan just drop straight down or does it need to slide one way or another to clear the pick-up tube??

??? That is the main question. If it has to move, then it looks like I need to raise the engine or drop the sub-frame. If it comes straight out, then it looks like cake.

I have the kit from IPD. The car i am working on has an external oil cooler bolted to the back of the pan with 2 coolant hoses going to it that can be disconnected.

mykemac · Post by **mykemac** » 11 Jul 2009, 20:32

sounds like,given the low pressure from the oil switch,that the filter for your oil pump inside the sump is blocked or starved of oil partially

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 12 Jul 2009, 00:08

I just helped my son with this exact project today on his '96 850. His problem was less the O rings than it was the sump itself leaking but while we were there we replaced the O rings.

The sump on this car had obviously been off before since they tried to seal it with a black RTV - That does not work.

The job is a bit more than I previously described due to the power steering lines. To get the sump off you need to bend them toward the transmission what is frankly more than comfortable but they did bend enough and it did work after you remove the bolts than anchor them to the subframe. You also need to remove the lower torque arm and I found that placing a floor jack under the transmission and slightly jacking it up helped with moving the power steering lines on the front of the car. Toward the rear you just need to muscle them out of the way except on a right hand drive car where they must be removed entirely.

I used the Curil K2 anaerobic gasket sealer that FCP sells (or used to sell) and it seems to work OK.

What was really scary was the amount of black RTV shards that were collected in the screen on the oil pickup in this case.

Figure the entire day for this job since you keep running into unexpected things the first time you do it.

Changing the O rings was amazing, there was absolutely no lifter noise at all after we finished. Even on startup.

It will take a full 2 gallons of oil to get back to the appropriate oil level since you drain another quart or so out of the sump and the oil pump pickup line.

...Lee

Post by **demian5** » 13 Jul 2009, 23:35

I got the pan off. It was really easy. It only has 1 line running under the engine and I removed the clamps holding it to the brackets and it was out of the way no problem.

When I got the pan off, there was a bunch of crap that looked like candy wrappers inside the pick-up tube. The pan has never been off (as witnessed by the coorosion on the bolts of being a back-east car). The smaller of the 2 o-rings at the front of the motor was deformed and looked like it could have been sucking air. I am having my friend take the pan to his shop to clean in the solvent tank and remove the plastic oil filter housing using the "correct" tool. Should be a slam dunk putting it back together. I am going to replace the 2 o-rings at the front and the pick-up tube seal. Anything else while I am in there I should do?

I had to remove the oil cooler from the pan, but those o-rings were still pliable and should work good still. I got my roller and the sealant from IPD. I figured since the pan is a tight fit at the front of the motor I would apply the sealant to the block and the pan in case one scrapes the other off. Any suggestions on that?

So between the one deformed o-ring and the crap in the pick-up tube, that should solve my flickering oil light.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Jul 2009, 14:08

I figured since the pan is a tight fit at the front of the motor I would apply the sealant to the block and the pan in case one scrapes the other off. Any suggestions on that?

I did exactly the same thing. I also figured that it would help to hole the O rings in place.

I wonder were the crap came from that was clogging the pickup. My son's had a bunch of strings of the black RTV that the last idiots used to seal it.

...Lee