92 240 Power windows don't work properly

Corvids · Post by **Corvids** » 23 Jul 2009, 21:00

I bought a 1992 240 last week that I think had been sitting for a good while. I am having problems with all four power windows where they work off and on and they are not reliable to open or close. I checked the fuse and cleaned the connection and that seems OK. Could there still be some other wiring between the fuses and the windows that would affect the operation? I can get some intermittent opening, and then one or more windows will get stuck, usually going up, rather than going down. After the car sits for a while, I sometimes can get some windows to go up a little at a time, and others most to go all the way up. There is no predictable pattern.

I would find it hard to believe that all four window motors are bad, when all of windows can still move at some point, but was wondering whether it might have to do with the main control on the driver's side being dirty or a little corrosion built from lack of use. The back windows on the back door controls seem to be less reliable, or not to work at all, than the main control which is puzzling too.

Would some kind of silicone lubrication be all that is needed for the window runners or is there some kind of lubricant that would work better? Anything else can be done before busting into the door panels that can get expensive?

Post by **billofdurham** » 24 Jul 2009, 11:41

The window runners can be sprayed with a silicone based lubricant. I do mine at each service when I do the locks.

Pull the switches and spray the insides with a switch cleaner. It can work wonders. You will be able to get that from Radio Shack which, unfortunately, closed its outlets in the UK.

Bill.

Corvids · Post by **Corvids** » 24 Jul 2009, 21:58

Thanks, Bill. I found some very good electrical CRC QD electronic cleaner that I sprayed down through the top, and between the control switches, without removing the unit. The master control on the driver's side controls both front and back windows, and it did improve the operation quite a bit, yet one back window still hangs a little. I am not sure just spraying through the top of the switches will totally resolve the problem.

My mechanic wants to pull and replace the master switch. If I knew how to pull the switch out, and it was very simple, I would like to maybe try this myself. Is there some tool or something special to prise the control from the armrest? If I did get the unit out, does it stay together well enough to spray, and replace without having wires and connections all over the place? Does it lock right into place? Can you tell me how to do it?

Another thing I would like to ask. On the way home this car also stalled twice in town while it was moving and not stopped at a traffic light. I was lucky to get turned off twice on a side street. The car started again just fine after I stopped. When I got home, I let it iddle for a long time, just to see if it would stall, and it did not. I have never had a car moving like that to stall, so it was a bit unnerving. Any suggestions to the cause? Again, this car may have been sitting for a while before I got it, so just like the windows, may need some fine tune adjusting.

Are you the same Bill that replied to my other Volvo with the brakes that would not bleed, which I got resolved?

Thanks, John

Post by **billofdurham** » 25 Jul 2009, 12:23

I'll deal with the easy question first:

Are you the same Bill that replied to my other Volvo with the brakes that would not bleed, which I got resolved?

If it's a complaint - No. If it's anything else - Yes.

The switches are easy to remove and no wires should come adrift as they are long enough to allow you to access them. Pull the switch assemblies out of the door handle, a metal spring at front and back hold them in. Use a small screwdriver to lever them out gently. The driver's door switch panel comes out with the switches still in and you can then remove one or more of the switches as needed.

Obviously the switch contacts do wear over a period of time and will get to the stage where switch cleaner will no longer be effective. There are ways to clean the contacts manually but the entails taking the switch apart, cleaning and re-silvering the contacts. You can see how it is done here: http://www.mikeponte.com/volvo/pwin.htm. A new switch is easier

Before replacing the master switch pull it out and spray it again and see how it goes.

With regards to the 'stalling' at what sort of speed did this happen? If it was at more than about 5mph I would class that as cutting out which can be caused by many things. The first one that comes to mind is fuel starvation. Your car has the On-Board Diagnostic box in the engine compartment. See if any fault codes have been set as it helps diagnosis.

Bill.

Corvids · Post by **Corvids** » 25 Jul 2009, 14:36

Bill...OK on the switches. I have a new machanic locally who is dying to work on this car, including the replacing the master switch for about $100. Not sure what that is in pounds these days. I wanted him to check my timing belt, and said I am good for about a year or so.

I am really more concerned about the car stalling, where my mechanic wants to check that out too. I was going over 40 MPH when the car stalled first, and about 15 MPH when it stalled the second time. Stalling for either gas or air would seem logical. I don't think it was over heating.

I don't know a thing about the fault codes in the diagnostic box, that is why I am leaning to give it back to him. He did a good job fixing my other car's brakes and going over the car to service some areas that needed attention. He is a small, one man business, so I am not sure he has high tech computer hook ups.

One reason I am asking is that I love to research, learn and problem solve , though I may not do the work. It is good to have people like you who can give me some tips to add to the arsenal of knowledge. All this information is good to know.

I just got this 240, and I have not decided whether I want to keep it, so I don't want to put a lot of money into it yet. After laying out a tidy sum to fix the other car, I am into doing what I can to test it out, before I give it back to him. Stalling is the highest priority, since it is a safety issue. I was again wondering that possibly the car sitting, it needs to be run more, possibly blowing it out any old crud that may have accumulated somewhere. When I first got the car, I drove it home 40 miles, four lane, higher speeds, and no problems and ran around town a few times without any problems. I might just drive it some more and different speeds and see what happens. I'll try to find places to pull over, but good thing it starts right back up. No towing please.

Thanks again, John

Post by **billofdurham** » 25 Jul 2009, 16:03

I don't know a thing about the fault codes in the diagnostic box,

Have a look at:https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... c&start=12. This is one of the easiest OBDs to use and your new mechanic needs no fancy gadgets to get at it. Give it a go and any codes you don't understand post back.

The symptoms you give are pointing towards a fuel problem - possibly condensation in the tank whilst it stood. Did you drain the tank or just fill it up? A small drop of water can play havoc with the fuel system.

Bill.

Corvids · Post by **Corvids** » 25 Jul 2009, 23:20

Thanks for the links. I'll take a look. I just filled up the tank. I really don't know how long it sat, maybe a few months. I am basing this from my observation of the tail pipe , where no exhaust residue was evident.

It is puzzing, because it idles just fine with no hesitation while accelerating, and runs very quietly and smoothly. Then out of no where, just stops. Maybe I am over reacting and it might clear up on its own after it is driven for a while. Having my mechanic check it out, probably won't hurt either.