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740 '90 Roof Rack Repair

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
1983 - 1992 740
1982 - 1991 760
1986 - 1991 780
1990 - 1998 940
1990 - 1998 960
1997 - 1998 V90/S90

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kacaitlin
Posts: 1
Joined: 5 August 2009
Year and Model: 740 1990
Location: Chicago

740 '90 Roof Rack Repair

Post by kacaitlin »

I have an original Volvo roof rack on my 740 GLE 1990 wagon that is pulling loose from the roof. I have 6 support post with two screws each that mount the rack to the roof. I 'think' that there is some type of nut inside in roof that hold these screws in. But I have been able to find much info on this since this is 18 yrs old!
I have 4 posts out of 6 that have 'lost' the their respective anchoring nuts (but, I have retained the rest of the hardware like screws and production pads) and I am looking for a fix before the last 4 support post screws come out of their anchors.
Thank you so much.

Tobugrynbak
Posts: 5
Joined: 14 August 2009
Year and Model: 740 GL 88 745 GLE 89
Location: Central Coast NSW Oz

Post by Tobugrynbak »

The "nuts" are a type of "Nutsert" and are fitted like a pop rivet.
You have two choices, and it depends on whether you use the rack or not.
If you don't use the rack, remove the remaining fittings and seal the holes. It is important to seal the holes or else you will induce rust in all sorts of weird places.
Remove the nutserts that are left by carefully drilling them out and fill the 12 holes with fibreglass body filler (bog,bondo) but do make a nice job of it.

If you want to keep the rack, you need to determine why the nutserts "pulled" out.

Plan A. Now you could just replace the nutserts. Most good accessory fitters will have the tool to do the job. It will take them half an hour to fit the new ones if the holes are not chewed or rusty.

If the holes are chewed or rusty then nutserts wont work.

Plan B. This is a two person job. Remove the roof liner (carefully it has to go back), remove the remaining nutserts. Repair any rust around the holes. Make new rubber seal/gaskets (old inner tube is good)to go between the rack mounting post and the roof. Buy 12 of each 316 Stainless Steel 6mm (1/4")diameter x 20mm (3/4")long Allen key bolts with "Nylok" nuts. Also 12 of "Guard" washers or you could fabricate 6 "fish plates" these will go inside the roof, use the bottom of the rack mount as a template. Make gaskets to go between the washers/fish plates and the roof.
Reassemble the roof rack onto the vehicle, by first placing the gaskets onto the mounting points, then putting the rack in place.
put a screw into mounting hole, your partner should then fit the underside gasket,washer/fish plate, do the up nut finger tight. Keep putting the assembly together til all 12 screws are inplace.
Now while the rack is still loose, align it so it is square to the roof.
Tension the middle 4 screws in a diagonal pattern, then the front 4 screws and then the rear 4 screws.
Refit the roof lining.
This is an all day job if you start after breakfast.


It is very straight forward but requires some skill to do properly.
Rednecks don't write history, we make it happen.

UNDERSTEER is when you hit the wall forwards.
OVERSTEER is when you hit the wall backwards.
HORSEPOWER is how fast you hit the wall.
TORQUE is how far the wall moves after you hit it.

Tobugrynbak
Posts: 5
Joined: 14 August 2009
Year and Model: 740 GL 88 745 GLE 89
Location: Central Coast NSW Oz

Post by Tobugrynbak »

Just wondering how and which way you went with your problem.
Cheers
Perry
Rednecks don't write history, we make it happen.

UNDERSTEER is when you hit the wall forwards.
OVERSTEER is when you hit the wall backwards.
HORSEPOWER is how fast you hit the wall.
TORQUE is how far the wall moves after you hit it.

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