I just bought this S80, and I first started hearing this clicking noise on drivers side,AFTER I turn off the ignition for about 2-3seconds like some thing is winding down ( sounds like contacts almost). Then I start to get this rough rattle when I idle but when I accelerate it fades away (i was thinking Cat Convert goin bad) Then I started to get intermitent surges at 600-800 rpm, Then My Check Engine light came on and wouldnt give a code with engine off, BUT turn the engine on and it gave P1332. NOW my battery is being drained, In charging it as I write. when I started charging it I started to hear different things clicking but havent noticed anymore clicking after 15mins of charging! I see that the CVVT Sole has been and issue and the timing belt as well, BUT Im not sure of what Im discribing is a combination of things OR One thing just getting worse. My High beam lights also dont stay on. I have been reading on here and Im running acrossed numerous Ideas for my battery, IE a relay stuck but which one. The car runs great.... But I dont want to do any damage to it though! Maybe My battery is just old? Maybe the clicking noise is a relay thats what it kinda sounds like when I turn it off (its about twenty rapid clicks in seconds) Would the CVVT Sole cause the battery to drain? I am stumped and I talked with Bob @ Bobs Imports in Baden PA (suburb of PGH friend of mine) and He is stumped as well to the P1332 code! Soo, Can you give me some insight, PLEASE??
Jeff in PGH
2000 S80 t6---P1332 code, Battery, clicking noise
-
Jeffpghsteelers
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 10 August 2009
- Year and Model: 2000 s80 t6
- Location: Pittsburgh
-
Jeffpghsteelers
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 10 August 2009
- Year and Model: 2000 s80 t6
- Location: Pittsburgh
just had the battery tested along with the altenator @ advanced auto and both are good. My buddy Joe, who was testing it, said that the clicking noise sounds like the ABS turning off, bc the noise comes from that area and that it is not unusual to hear that! But something is draining my battery overnight, I called the dealer but they had idea, but I forgot to say that ever since I got the car, when I get in before I turn on the engine I hear this very faint humming noise behing my cd player. The noise is so faint you can barely hear it, it almost sounds as if the cd is spinning inside of it.....HMMM maybe thats it?!?! has anyone come across these problems before! I can go take it to the dealer, But since I cleared the check engine light, the dealer said they wont be able to see why it came on! I have been researching these problems for weeks now and I am not finding any answers soooo, If anyone can guide me in the right direction, I would be Very Happy 
Thank you
Jeff in Pgh
Thank you
Jeff in Pgh
-
vegasjetskier
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 1843
- Joined: 16 December 2007
- Year and Model: 2010 Toyota Prius
- Location: Fernandina Bch, FL Formerly - Las Vegas, NV
- Been thanked: 6 times
Make sure the battery connections are clean and tight and that it is full of water. The CVVT won't make your battery go dead. Check the glove box door - these warp out leaving the glove box lamp on sometimes. There is a constant load on the battery because of all the computers in the car, but it should last at least 2 weaks without being started before going dead.
The P1332 code is the CVVT solenoid. When this malfunctions the cam is in performance mode all the time and could result in the rough idle. It costs about $150 for a new one.
Poor idle could also be a bad ETM. Has it been replaced? Look on the front of it to see if it has a white sticker - if it does, it's original. Replacement ETMs will have a yellow sticker. You have 10 years or 200,000 miles from first use to get a new one under the extended warranty but certain conditions must be met.
Clunking noise might be a bad torque strut on the top of the engine.
The P1332 code is the CVVT solenoid. When this malfunctions the cam is in performance mode all the time and could result in the rough idle. It costs about $150 for a new one.
Poor idle could also be a bad ETM. Has it been replaced? Look on the front of it to see if it has a white sticker - if it does, it's original. Replacement ETMs will have a yellow sticker. You have 10 years or 200,000 miles from first use to get a new one under the extended warranty but certain conditions must be met.
Clunking noise might be a bad torque strut on the top of the engine.
.
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
-
vegasjetskier
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 1843
- Joined: 16 December 2007
- Year and Model: 2010 Toyota Prius
- Location: Fernandina Bch, FL Formerly - Las Vegas, NV
- Been thanked: 6 times
High beams - what position is your dash light switch in?
.
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
-
vegasjetskier
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 1843
- Joined: 16 December 2007
- Year and Model: 2010 Toyota Prius
- Location: Fernandina Bch, FL Formerly - Las Vegas, NV
- Been thanked: 6 times
Look about 2/3rds down on this page to see how the lights work. If you don't have the dash switch in the right position the high beams won't come on.
https://www.customers.volvocars.com/own ... b.htm#pg30
https://www.customers.volvocars.com/own ... b.htm#pg30
.
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
-
Jeffpghsteelers
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 10 August 2009
- Year and Model: 2000 s80 t6
- Location: Pittsburgh
Vegas,
Thanks Alot !!!!!! Battery contections and acid levels are good, but it was parked @ airport for a week. I charged it last night and it started today
My glovebox does rattled a little but I shimmed it. I'll check the switch as well, BUT I hear the slight humming noise right behind the CD player when the car isnt turned on, and I have NOOO Idea whats humming. You can barely hear it, sounds like a little fan! How important is it to fix the CVVT?? ASAP? I been driving on it for 3weeks now Am I causing damage? or can I replace it within the month and put less than 200miles on it? THX for your help I REALLY Appreciate it!!! Yes My upper rear engine mount is vibrating slightly and chirping, I know I need to replace that bushing, BUT the rattling noise is underneath by the firewall and it makes that noise when I come to a stop and goes away once I start moving, Im thinking Cat Convert has broken up and is stabilizing when I start moving thus not rattling, The rattle is very intermittent as well. The dealer said that my ETM IS still under warranty, BUT I have to pay to see if it is bad and if it is then they'll replace free of cost but if they dont think its bad then I'm stuck with the $200 cost of checking it LOL Atleast Thats what Volvo of LA on Figeruao said. What kinda recall is THAT??? I'll look at the label THX.. You have relieved alot of my concerns and I can breath easier now! THX!!!!!! I just bought this with 107K miles on it sooo, I dont know what has been maintenenced and what hasnt, Soooo I really want to start replacing things that may be worn and need replaced, Any suggestions what to start with first? Any Idea what that rapid clicking noise is when I turn off the engine, its on the driverside, ABS turning off?? Or something else?? Any experience with this noise?? It's not the Fan either it makes the noise before the fan kicks on! Its about 10-15 purring rapid clicks when I turn the engine off 96% of the time!
Thx a WHOLE HELL of a lot
Jeff in Pgh------ Go Steelers
Thanks Alot !!!!!! Battery contections and acid levels are good, but it was parked @ airport for a week. I charged it last night and it started today
Thx a WHOLE HELL of a lot
Jeff in Pgh------ Go Steelers
-
Jeffpghsteelers
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 10 August 2009
- Year and Model: 2000 s80 t6
- Location: Pittsburgh
Vegas,
etm has yellow sticker, would volvo replace it again if its still under warranty or is this one the "New&Improved" version with NON contacting pieces, OR could it go bad again?? Glovebox light goes out. Still trying to figure out what that hummin noise is... Its sooo faint you can barely hear it, I pulled out the CD and it still humms... I wonder if there are certain fuses I can pull to see which one makes it stop humming! The dealer said they have seen the heater blower make noise BUT I think they were talking about worn bushings and a chirping noise that we all have encountered one time or another in our lives!
Thx Again for the CVVT/P1332 definite answer!! Just wonder if I have to fix it ASAP b/c it will cause damage, or if I can fix it with in the month or so! I dont drive much on it, less 200 mi week.
LMAO---- THX for Teaching me how to turn on the headlights LOL--- I feel small bus special now LOL and Bingo Highbeams stay on--- LOL Daaaaaaa I had my Lexus SC400 for 12 yrs sooo Im not use to my Volvo.. I use to have the Volvo 242GT 80's and I have gone back to Volvo!
I still can't find the trunk latch/button---does one even exist?
Jeff in Pgh
etm has yellow sticker, would volvo replace it again if its still under warranty or is this one the "New&Improved" version with NON contacting pieces, OR could it go bad again?? Glovebox light goes out. Still trying to figure out what that hummin noise is... Its sooo faint you can barely hear it, I pulled out the CD and it still humms... I wonder if there are certain fuses I can pull to see which one makes it stop humming! The dealer said they have seen the heater blower make noise BUT I think they were talking about worn bushings and a chirping noise that we all have encountered one time or another in our lives!
Thx Again for the CVVT/P1332 definite answer!! Just wonder if I have to fix it ASAP b/c it will cause damage, or if I can fix it with in the month or so! I dont drive much on it, less 200 mi week.
LMAO---- THX for Teaching me how to turn on the headlights LOL--- I feel small bus special now LOL and Bingo Highbeams stay on--- LOL Daaaaaaa I had my Lexus SC400 for 12 yrs sooo Im not use to my Volvo.. I use to have the Volvo 242GT 80's and I have gone back to Volvo!
I still can't find the trunk latch/button---does one even exist?
Jeff in Pgh
-
vegasjetskier
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 1843
- Joined: 16 December 2007
- Year and Model: 2010 Toyota Prius
- Location: Fernandina Bch, FL Formerly - Las Vegas, NV
- Been thanked: 6 times
Yellow sticker means the ETM has been replaced, however, it is the exact same ETM as the original so it will wear out eventually. Since it will be on your dime at this point, I would go with the XeMODeX unit that has the special position sensor that won't wear out.
WRT the headlights - I just tried this on my car and yours is probably the same - if the dash switch is in the "parking lights" position the parking lights will be on all the time, even if the key is removed from the ignition switch and the car is locked. This would surely run your battery down over time, so make sure your dash switch is not in that position.
I don't think the CVVT solenoid will cause any damage if you don't have it fixed for a while - your car will just idle rough.
The only thing I can think of for the noise in the dash is that these cars have a feature in the computer programming that runs the AC blower for a while if there's moisture in the evaporator to dry it out and prevent corrosion. Maybe that's what you're hearing. My car does it quite frequently. Also, if the car is hot inside the computer will turn on the fan as soon as you unlock it with the remote to start cooling the cabin off.
Has the timing belt on the engine been changed? I think it's supposed to be done at 105K miles. That would be a big concern as these are interference engines and if the belt breaks you will almost certainly bend valves, resulting a head removal and rework, which is quite expensive. Check your owner's manual for the belt change interval.
Also, I'd do the engine oil and filter and transmission fluid and filter. Directions are stickied at the top of the S80 forum.
You can change the spark plugs yourself. Directions are in the S80 repair database.
WRT the headlights - I just tried this on my car and yours is probably the same - if the dash switch is in the "parking lights" position the parking lights will be on all the time, even if the key is removed from the ignition switch and the car is locked. This would surely run your battery down over time, so make sure your dash switch is not in that position.
I don't think the CVVT solenoid will cause any damage if you don't have it fixed for a while - your car will just idle rough.
The only thing I can think of for the noise in the dash is that these cars have a feature in the computer programming that runs the AC blower for a while if there's moisture in the evaporator to dry it out and prevent corrosion. Maybe that's what you're hearing. My car does it quite frequently. Also, if the car is hot inside the computer will turn on the fan as soon as you unlock it with the remote to start cooling the cabin off.
Has the timing belt on the engine been changed? I think it's supposed to be done at 105K miles. That would be a big concern as these are interference engines and if the belt breaks you will almost certainly bend valves, resulting a head removal and rework, which is quite expensive. Check your owner's manual for the belt change interval.
Also, I'd do the engine oil and filter and transmission fluid and filter. Directions are stickied at the top of the S80 forum.
You can change the spark plugs yourself. Directions are in the S80 repair database.
.
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
Regarding the "little fan" noise:
There actually is a little fan near the CD player that pulls in air for the temperature sensor.
Find the small slot, about a half inch long, on the dash and put your finger over it. If the sound changes, that's what you're hearing. Mine's a little noisy, drove me nuts 'till I found out what it was. It starts running when the drivers door is first opened, then goes off after a while. It'll also cycle on and off while the cars running.
There actually is a little fan near the CD player that pulls in air for the temperature sensor.
Find the small slot, about a half inch long, on the dash and put your finger over it. If the sound changes, that's what you're hearing. Mine's a little noisy, drove me nuts 'till I found out what it was. It starts running when the drivers door is first opened, then goes off after a while. It'll also cycle on and off while the cars running.
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post






