New Modified Transmission Flush Method with Pictures

[FlyingVolvo]

I've done it in a way similar to that. But instead of doing it all in one blow, after one cycle (drain+fill) I drove about 50 miles or so, then did a drain and fill. I repeated that two times, so three drain and fills. Still have technically about 10% or so of old fluid, but it's a lot better than doing nothing, especially if you are concerned about doing a flush with the car turned on.

I think doing this with a little mileage in between would work better; allowing the fluid to reach operating temperature and really mix with the old nasty stuff.

[vegasjetskier]

Does it matter if the washer is copper instead?

If you use a copper washer you might get some dissimilar metal corrosion since they are quite a ways apart on the galvanic chart.

[MadeInJapan]

Plus copper is harder than aluminum- what your transmission (and oil pan are made of)...if you torque things too hard, you can strip the threads in either. The copper washers were only meant for the old "red" engines on the RWD's which were made of cast iron.

[hommegrenouille]

Just a quick question about the "easier" drain and fill method mentioned earlier in this thread for anyone that's done it (find it at https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/tips.php#transflush2). It calls for draining the pan (approx. 3.5 liters) and then doing 3 or 4 successive drain and fills after shifting through the gears, but with only 2 liters each time. For the last fill, 3.5 liters (or whatever the first drain amount was) is added to replace the difference.

It seems to me that with this method you lose 1.5 liters of fluid each fill. Or perhaps by adding only 2 liters after the first drain, each successive drain will be about 2 liters, and you'd be shifting through the gears with 6.5 liters instead of 8 in the tranny?

Is this dangerous for the tranny even if I'd only be shifting through the gears between drains? Call me cheap, but if this method is okay, I'd like to save money and not have to refill with 3.5 liters of new fluid each time if 2 would suffice.

[MadeInJapan]

Welcome to MVS.
What you want to do whatever method you use is to put in exactly the same amount you drain out...this is whether you drain and fill and then do the flush or just do the flush. You never want to be lower than 2 quarts... otherwise you get air in the transmission and it will begin to slip and could cause damage.

[Volvo_240_Atari_2600]

MIJ,

Or anyone who has done this who can chime in…
I am going to replace the radiator on my wife’s 98 v70 (non turbo AT) on Saturday.

I have two questions and sorry if they are in the thread since I am going to be on site all day and do not have the time to read through the whole thread this one time.

1.
Central Florida, so Hot and Humid, 190k and we got it at 166k and never did the tranny flush nor do I think it was done before.
What fluid do you recommend?

2.
What do you mean by P2??? Is that my car? A 98 v70?

3.
I guess the upper hose is the hose I want to flush from, correct?

4.
Those retaining clips on the tranny lined to radiator nipples. Do you re-use the old ones or do you install new ones? Trying to see if I have to drive all the way cross-town to the Volvo dealer for $14.00 clips (each one is $14.00)

Thanks

Any other recommendations directed towards my car or mileage would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Eric

[SilverS70]

I also did the tranny flush using this method on my 2000 S70 GLT recently. I'm a novice but it was successful. I bought the green snap lock an two o-rings before performing. I put the marked milk jug inside a 5 gallon paint bucket in case of spills, which I did have a small overfill of the milk jug once. My car has the 4 speed, so I used Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. My last full flush was at the dealer using BG synthetic 35k miles ago.

I looked through this thread and didn't see a pic what the removed hose looks like with the green clip on it so I took a pic of it. I also made a short video of me removing the hose, and I put a plug in for MVS at the end of the video as I learned how to do this flush here.

Link to the video:



Pic

[volvosafe]

mij It has been a while since I posted but just want to say what you guys do is great.:> I just bought an xc70 a 02' and will be looking to drain transmission fluid... noticed there is not a dipstick for checking that unless I missed it.

I get to see the car tommorow in the daylight after running her to the smokies and back

thanks again:>

[Volvo_240_Atari_2600]

I did the flush as described back in August and th went flawlessly.

Two years ago, I used this thread to fluch my 240 and it went flawlessly.

Last night I flushed the 240 out again, same method w/ cheap fluid first finishing the job with better stuff.

Only one problem last night and I hope its not a transmission on its way out.

Fluid was not burnt, or brown or black, just a deep dark burgundy, however every flush interval, there would be good steady pressure of fluid exiting the hose (about one qt) within a minute to a minute and a half.

The second qt would take longer as there was not a push from the tranny, but air and fluid together, almost spitting the fluid out.

My IPD hose for he 240 is what I used two years ago and last night but IPD says that two qts would take about a minute and a half.

I did not have this problem when I flushed the transmission two years ago.

Any thought at what this could mean?

Thank you.
Eric

[seggs]

I'm planning to change my trans fluid on my 02 S60 77k and picked up some oil this weekend. I was looking for the Mobil 3309 or the toyota type IV but struck out on both because of availability. So, I paid the big bucks and bought Mobil 1 Synth. ATF which says its good for the 3309 spec. However, in reading through this thread, I've gotten the impression the synth is not good for cars with the 5 speed (I'm pretty sure mine's a 5spd...selector says L 3 4 D)
Was the synthethic Mobile 1 previously not 3309 approved but is now or do I not want to use it regardless of what it says?
Thx
Steve