'93 850 auto tranny - is it cooked?

[wwilme]

The car has 193k on it and just yesterday the transmission started to show its age. The car would not pull away from a light after 10 miles of driving. My wife put it through the gears and park and then finally got it moving. She then drove it another ten miles on the highway and parked it for an hour or so. When she returned, the car was fine for a little while, but then started the same thing. She was able to get it up to speed and onto the highway (it wound out to around 4000rpms with each shift although she was not stepping on it too hard) Apparently the up shift light was flashing continuously all the way down the highway. When she got off the exit, the car would not pull away form the light, so she drifted it over and waited for me to rescue her. When I got there (about a half hour) I first pulled the stick to check the fluid level - normal but somewhat brown. Then I got in and drove it home (about five miles). It would wind out to about 4000rpms, but would shift. Seems like it will move once it cools down. Is there any obvious solution here? Or is the tranny cooked? With $2000 phone quotes to replace the tranny, it's time for a replacement vehicle - but I wouldn't mind buying a week or two to land the right one (another used Volvo, of course!)

[steve]

Flush the tranny and replace with new fluid. Should be done IMHO every third engine oil change.

Try it for starters.

[wwilme]

I'll do that. Anyone had to do the PNP switch described over on Bay13?

[steve]

I did. It cost a couple hundred dollars at the dealer. My shift lever would not move from park unless I manually pushed the release button on the console.

Getting back to your main problem: My trans would shift funny and race (RPM's would flare up) between shifts until I started changing the fluid regularly. Now it has gone and I hope never comes back. It took a couple of changes to get rid of all the old fluid, but some shops can power flush the system which would be much quicker and may give more immediate results.

[matthew1]

Here's some power flush techniques from this page

Transmission fluid flush

LAgte
11/18/2001

Piece of cake to flush yourself. Remove exit hose from tranny to radiator at the radiator attachment point. A snap-ring pliar is highly recommended to remove clamp. It looks like you can do it with a screw driver, but clamp damage is highly probable, and you don't want it blowing off later in traffic.

Run engine until bubbles show up (clear hose is nice--and 850, S70, V70's are kind to the mechanic because the drain is on the driver's side, allowing one to watch the progress out the driver's window), shud down, add a couple quarts of tranny fluid, then keep repeating until you are satisfied it is clean--I think I pumped 9 quarts through my wife's 96 turbo wagon with 85K and wished I had had about three more quarts to get it crystal clear. Top it off and put the hose back on. I used Castrol synthetic blend mostly because I could not find pure synthetic locally. And I think I would rather go with more frequent changes at a lower cost rather than extended service with synthetic.

and

ATF flush: step-by-step

cn

1. RE: "ATF is not a service item", the owner manual says "no need to flush the ATF" for normal service, but considering that it is a very expensive item to repair and with my modified technique it is very easy to flush (easier than doing engine oil change).

2. Here is my technique-modified from Haynes. No need to remove the battery and battery tray and no need to disconnect the hose from the cooler. Get a box wrench 24-mm (Sears). The drain plug for the ATF is on the Right side of the Transmission casing. Drain ATF, you should get approx. 3.5 liters out the first time. This is the amount you need to put back during the final top-up.

However, for the each flush cycle: a. Reinstall the drain plug finger-tight b. Add just 2 liters of ATF c. Start the engine (don't drive as the drain plug is not tightened), shift through all gears with at least 5 seconds in each gear. d. Drain the ATF

Repeat the above steps until the ATF is clear, it usually takes 3-4 cycles or approx. 8 liters of ATf to be wasted. At the final topup, add approx. 3 liters, run the engine and check the ATF (using standard procedure as in the onwer manual as to how to check the ATF level). In my experience during the final run I added 3.5 liters. This way you only need one case of 12 liters of ATF. I think this is good preventive maintenance.

and

ATF flush

Chris

This is a little story for you do it "yourselfers" out there. I am an ex-mechanic and figured I was more than capable to offset the high maintenence costs of owning a Volvo by doing most if not all of my own work. Especially with the help of this web sight and the advice of all you great givers of Volvo knowledge.

Well, I came across a posting for flushing the automatic transmission. I thought the $89.00 dealer price was fare but, hey, I know my stuff and this posting gave me the step by step procedure, what could go wrong? I even get to put in the Mobil 1 synthetic, BONUS!!

I got my supplies together 11 quarts fluid, clear plastic hose, clamp and my daughters funnel she uses to fill her water baby, I will clean it when I'm done. Began taking off the top transmission cooler line, you know, the one on the top right of the radiator, yea, passanger side. Carfully removing the clip as explained. Attached my clear hose and ran it into a bucket, readied my new fluid and started my prized turbo black 850, S70, V70R wagon. The hose leaked spraying black fluid every where. WHAT?, OIL?? I smell some of the dark tranny fluid. Rub some in my fingers. I look closer. OH, I see a oil cooler, cool. Well, OK, "hey honey I think I am going to change your oil too". I went and got oil and filter and finished the oil change I didn't mean to start. Started the car oil good and went to the left side (drivers side) and chuckled as I pulled the clamp off the hose.

OK, here we go I attached the clear hose to the radiator outlet in place of the hose. Hose goes into the bucket. Tranny hose out of the way. Ready! I start the car and whatch as transmission fluid sprays up and out of the hose that I carefully moved out of the way. Quick! Turn off the car and look at the damage. More fluid sprayed all over my prized black 850, S70, V70R wagon, I am really not having fun now! OK OK, I get it. I will hook my clear hose to the line side and run it into the bucket. I started the car, held my breath, then looked. Hey, this works good pretty good. I pump the fluid out add more do it again and again and wow this is easy.

ATF flush 2

Chris

More: The clear hose I used was 1/2" inside diam. It will attach to the transmission cooler line. I did not use a hose clamp there, it stayed on fine. I would recomend this next item to any one who reuses the hose clip: use an electric zip tie around the clip to tighten it back down after being removed and possably loosened. My dealer couldn't find a new clip so I was forced to re-use the old one with a zip tie.

Sorry that stuff is hard to find. It's linked off my Home page. I'm planning on moving that stuff up and in front soon.

[wwilme]

thanks for all the advise folks. Looks like the 850 may be saved yet. If it works, we'll just keep it for a third car. Since I just replaced the entire front suspension, I'd like to get some use out of it!

[Paul93-850]

Say, if your car still moves, I"d highly recommend that you get the tranny flushed as others are recommending. It's not too expensive and it may save your tranny. Then you'll be able to still drive it for awhile and it will be much easier to sell (with a working tranny).

I had the ball joints replaced on mine at the same time and it rides much quieter and smoother now.

I waited too long and my croaked. Same model and year. cost a ton.

Flush it. Leave the seat up.

-Paul