Timing question on '05 XC70

[greg850r]

Hi first v70,

I saw a thread on the crank pulley being stripped. I have found the marks, locked the crank with the tool and the marks are where they should be now. Additionally, the splines look solid. Thank you for the suggestion.

[greg850r]

I now have the crank lined up with the lock tool in the hole. I feel like an idiot for missing the opportunity to mark the gears on the cams with the half turn past and go back method, don't know what I was thinking. Every how to I could find all started with paint marks on the gears prior to removing the belt but some of them omitted the go past and then back step. Clearly I should have taken more time researching it (or paid better attention).

Does anyone know of a video or DIY that shows how to put one together from scratch? I know there must be a way to get the cam timing right when building a fresh motor. With both cams and the crank locked in the proper place and the limited travel of the VVT hubs being the only variable, I'm thinking the factory must lock the intake and exhaust hubs to the cams at a set point in each's range of motion. IE full CCW, full CW, in the middle of the range, etc. I did find the marks on the gears and use a crayon on them like I normally do but without knowing the procedure to rotate back 90 degrees they may be meaningless. The method of going past and then back has me suspecting the hubs want to be locked to the cams so the gears are all the way CW with the marks lined up.

I had a new oring for the exhaust hub but bought a new exhaust hub ($289 shipped, dealer in Chicago) because mine had so much end play the oring was going beyond the sealing surface. I'm debating pulling the intake hub and using that oring there, along with a new cam seal even though it is dry on the intake side. I mean I do have it apart so why not?

I'll be busy installing a new water pump and lower motor mount today since it is oil soaked and that can't be good for a rubber mount. Here's hoping that in the meantime someone knows the right way to index the hubs.

[vtl]

On T2 engine it is simpler as there's no spring in VVT. VVT adjusts angle CCW, so when VVT fails the 0 degree angle is in the CW-most position of the hub.

The procedure:

- with the camshafts locked, VVT sprocket bolted to hub at the center of slots, VVT big bolt hand tightened
- go CW a full turn, stop tad before the mark
- tighten the bolt (this is where the "tad before" will get consumed). You will be pretty close to zero
- install t-belt
- remove the locks, do two full crank turns
- if the pistons do not hit the valve, you did it right and it is safe to start the engine

For a fine tuning the angles you need DiCE/VIDA. Run the engine above 1500 RPM, ECM will do VVT test and report the angle adaptations. You need them to be less than 4 degrees. It is realistic to do 1 degree or less. Fine tuning is done via sprocket/slots.

[greg850r]

Great instructions, thanks VTL. I pulled the plugs out and rotated the motor several times after following them and all seems well and all marks line back up every time. I opted not to remove the intake hub to do the seal. It isn't leaking and I am reluctant to break that bolt loose given the trouble the exhaust one is giving me. Also I didn't buy a new hub for the intake to save the money. I'll just have to go back in there in the future and do that last cam seal when I buy a new intake hub.

The cam lock tool broke before the torque wrench clicked tightening the exhaust hub center bolt. I need to figure out a way to counter hold the exhaust cam now as I don't want to run it until I'm satisfied that bolt is tight enough.

On the subject of cam lock tools, I'm looking for a new one. I'm tempted to follow the 'you get what you pay for' rule but they all look exactly the same, so I naturally wonder if the source isn't the same. In any case 88ft lbs seems like a lot to expect of those 2 little ears that go in the cam slot. Maybe the problem here is my fear of over tightening and breaking the retaining bolt off in the end of the cam. Would a harder retaining bolt and a tighter installation have spread the load better and kept the tool from breaking?

The tool that broke gave me many years of service on 850s and only died under the stress of the VVT bolt torque. I would be interested in anyone else's thoughts on the subject.

[vtl]

It is the exhaust VVT hub that starts to leak first. Also intake hub is not such a PIA to replace: more space to access the bolt, less heat stress.

I broke off a chunk of the camshaft with one of this cheap Chinese knock offs... OE tools supplier presumably has a better quality.

[cn90]

I posted the maker of the cam holding tool in the VVT Hub/Cam Seal DIY in S60 forum.

If you use the correct tool, then it does not break.

The weakest link is the 2 "ears" that go into the slots at the end of cam shaft. So good tool matters here...

[greg850r]

I bought the tool FCP sells and had no issues with it. everything lined up well and after turning it over a few times I put it the rest of the way back together and it runs well.

Two weeks in my wife called to report a check engine light and no power (limp mode?) when she went to lunch. By the time she returned to work from lunch it had righted itself and was running fine again. I pulled the code when she came home that evening as the check engine light was still on. Code was: ECM614B Exhaust Camshaft Control. I didn't clear it because it seems fine now and I want to see if it clears itself. I reasoned the solenoid could have been stuck. Time will tell I guess.

If the exhaust cam needs to be adjusted I wouldn't know how to decide which way to go.
Maybe someone has had a similar experience and can suggest something.

[vtl]

VIDA has VVT angle adaptation, look for both intake and exhaust sides. Should be below 4 degrees.

Solenoids can be bad, too. VIDA has VVT test, it charts how VVT reacts to ECU command.

[greg850r]

I really need to get something that runs windoze and obtain and learn to use vida.

[vtl]

Virtual machine runs windoze. I run windoze in a virtual machine.