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and now the water pump leaks 2001 V70 T5 Auto

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Vova585
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Re: and now the water pump leaks 2001 V70 T5 Auto

Post by Vova585 »

vtl wrote: 30 Mar 2023, 18:36 What brand is your pump? I've heard stories about aftermarket pumps breaking apart, sometimes ruining engine.
Agree with vtl and previous post. If you put pump in-aisin is the way to go. Don't go with dealer and better buy from fcp as a kit as advised previously. You will have warranty and price of mind you will not end up with broken car or leaky pump after short period of time. Trust us on that. We made those mistakes before and that's why we are passionate about trying to protect others from making them. Timing belt/water pump/tensioner/pulley/and serpentine belt is what this job calls for.

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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

Just buy the whole kit on FCPeuro or IPDusa, that would probably be your most economical option. Get the good kit with Aisin pump, Continental belt, INA pulleys and tensioner. Timing belt kit: 30758261KT1 on FCP for $215.59. I expect IPDusa has a similar kit for a similar price.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

azureblue wrote: 30 Mar 2023, 11:11 Much thanks - I have a nice garage and a large paved area, either one, to set up the car. I plan to zip tie the heck out of the belt to make sure it does not jump a tooth. My T belt looks great - no cracks or signs of wear - but, yeah, if the local parts house can get me the belt and tensioner, I'll do the work. Now about that 30MM socket ----


I have flashbacks of doing an Alfa in my early days - I spent much time checking out the timing before i cranked it. Rocking it back and forth. And I found I jumped a tooth on one of the cams..
ditch that strange timing belt,
zip tying the cam sprockets is fine.

Remove the small crankshaft lower dust cover, 2 x 10mm bolts visible from under the car looking up.
Once that dust cover is off you can easily slip the timing belt into place. Theres no reason to pull the crank pulley unless you're changing oil pump or crank seal...which you ain't.

Get the FCP complete kit, conti belt, Aisin water pump, ina pulley etc. No worries for the next 100K miles.

The only potential snag is the water pump bolts are long, torque is a mere 12ft lb, thats not much at all.
The bolts pass through the water jacket, new ones come with sealant on the threads, I prefer those bolts new.
.. the leak is because someone re-used old bolts but didn't clean and put fresh sealant on the threads.

A timing belt with teeth on both sides and a leaking water pump ?, the previous mechanic was a cowboy.

azureblue
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Post by azureblue »

Work postponed due to illness. I will look at the box again, after the cold medication kicks in...
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azureblue
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Post by azureblue »

Thanks for the torque spec - I was looking for that. I was wrong about the T belt, it's not ribbed on both sides - The T Belt is fine, and I wish I could get one today, but no luck - car has to be on the road by Monday, and I'm still under the weather. T belt looks great, but I am going to look at it carefully once I get things apart. I can replace it next week end - I think PO did a belt job and didn't do the water pump. The WP is the same brand that FCP sells and it's made in Spain. Lifetime warranty. With bolts, too.

I wasn't going to remove the crank pulley - the socket is to stop the crank from turning during the work. Some vid has a guy zip tying a breaker bar to the engine to lock it down.
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vtl
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Post by vtl »

azureblue wrote: 01 Apr 2023, 08:18 I was wrong about the T belt, it's not ribbed on both sides - The T Belt is fine, and I wish I could get one today, but no luck - car has to be on the road by Monday, and I'm still under the weather. T belt looks great, but I am going to look at it carefully once I get things apart.
Tensioner is far more important. T-belt usually snaps when the tensioner seizes.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

azureblue wrote: 01 Apr 2023, 08:18 Thanks for the torque spec - I was looking for that. I was wrong about the T belt, it's not ribbed on both sides - The T Belt is fine, and I wish I could get one today, but no luck - car has to be on the road by Monday, and I'm still under the weather. T belt looks great, but I am going to look at it carefully once I get things apart. I can replace it next week end - I think PO did a belt job and didn't do the water pump. The WP is the same brand that FCP sells and it's made in Spain. Lifetime warranty. With bolts, too.

I wasn't going to remove the crank pulley - the socket is to stop the crank from turning during the work. Some vid has a guy zip tying a breaker bar to the engine to lock it down.
I can't see any scenario where you need to lock the crank, unless you're doing the oil pump or crank seal.
They sometimes brace the breaker bar against the frame to crack the crank nut loose by flicking the starter on for a split second, I did that on my 4 cyl volvo and it worked good.
Crank isn't going to move when you pull the belt, if it does the timing mark is right there....just move it back.

These water pumps are known to be good for a long long time, if its leaking from the weep hole its worn out, if its from the gasket then the previous install was sloppy, gotta clean the surface better.

You can lock the cams with a front mounted tool, less than $10.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/194633287060?c ... I4QAvD_BwE

daninater
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Post by daninater »

Make sure you get the right timing belt tensioner, for some reason a lot of the Aisin kits come with the newer make tensioner. The vvt hub(s) will have play in them, so be ready for that. 3 teeth and 1-2 teeth of play each direction. The water pump is super simple, I use a dremel and a soft wire brush that zips off the water pump gasket pretty quik. Be gentle. Those fail before the belt will. Also if you don't pull off the harmonic balancer for the job, make sure you shimmy that belt through so it's not caught on anything on the lower sprocket or you'll never get the belt on--if you did then that still would be bad.

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firstv70volvo
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Post by firstv70volvo »

daninater wrote: 02 Apr 2023, 00:50 Make sure you get the right timing belt tensioner, for some reason a lot of the Aisin kits come with the newer make tensioner. The vvt hub(s) will have play in them, so be ready for that. 3 teeth and 1-2 teeth of play each direction. The water pump is super simple, I use a dremel and a soft wire brush that zips off the water pump gasket pretty quik. Be gentle. Those fail before the belt will. Also if you don't pull off the harmonic balancer for the job, make sure you shimmy that belt through so it's not caught on anything on the lower sprocket or you'll never get the belt on--if you did then that still would be bad.
There are two Aisin kits, TKV001 with the older style tensioner up to engine number 3188688 and kit TKV003 with the newer style tensioner so one has to order the correct kit based on the engine number, the split was sometime in the 2004 model year for the V70(and some other models). Some places don't offer good fitment notes so people order the wrong kit.

FarmallM51
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Post by FarmallM51 »

I've never removed the crank pulley on my 2004 V70 awd. I just align the timing marks on sprockets & crank, mark belt with white-out, remove, transfer marks to new belt.

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