and now the water pump leaks 2001 V70 T5 Auto

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 30 Mar 2023, 08:45

This came on kind of quick - Monday I noticed a puddle of coolant after a warm day, and I thought it was just overflow, but, nope, the car is leaking from behind the crankshaft pulley. And it leaks just sitting there, too - maybe a 1/4 cup overnight. So the water pump needs to be replaced, and I have never done this job on a FWD Volvo. My 740, yes. I watched some vids where they zip tie the timing belt to the camshaft pulleys, and use a 30mm socket and bar to hold the crankshaft in place, but that looks kind of dicey to me.

The timing belt is ribbed on both sides, which I gather is not the original - the belt has no cracks or signs of age as does the tensioner. It looks like the PO replaced these, so that means at least 50K on the belt and tensioner.

With this static leak, i am afraid to drive the car, so I really need to get this fixed asap. By luck, I have this week end free..

So a ton of questions:
1 - Can i just do the water pump, and not do the belt and tensioner, maybe seals, etc.?
2 - which Water pump to get? I see the OE part, then a lot of pumps that are about half that price..
3 - While I'm Decent with a wrench, is this a job I can do, if I am extra careful with the timing?
4 - do I need a cam lock tool? I see I will also need a 30MM socket for the crankshaft.
5 - I live in the Winston Salem area, and I would be glad to pay someone who has done this job, to do it, or at very least, make sure I am doing it right.

Post by **vtl** » 30 Mar 2023, 09:58

Go with Aisin pump, it is what Volvo put in these cars.

Don't need a locking tool. Use impact wrench on the crankshaft nut. May need to torture it for a minute, but it will eventually come off.

Mark t-belt and all sprockets with white paper corrector or oil marker, so you know you put it back in a correct position. Use large binder clips to hold the belt on the camshaft sprockets.

Honestly, I would replace t-belt and the tensioner with Volvo OE at the same time, since they can leave you without the engine in a blink of an eye.

chris11211 · Post by **chris11211** » 30 Mar 2023, 10:32

1. Unless the job is fairly recent; in most cases yes you should do them all because once you are in there then you minus well do them all since it's just a few more bolts and pretty cheap parts, and if it's 50k in then it is all right to do the whole job. It's literally $35 for the belt $25 each for idler, tensioner and coolant, and the most expensive part is $90 for the oe pump.

It looks like for piece of mind you just need to spend about $100 more for the whole job, and since the belt is not OE you def should get rid of that 100%.

This is the kit you should get, also make sure to get distilled water if you're getting volvo coolant.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 0758261kt1

2. The P2 Volvo's tend to get stingy when it comes to not replacing parts with at least an OE part. But the other water pumps at FCP are made in Italy and Germany so there has to be plenty of standards and QC. There's also plenty of reviews; right now the HEPU pump has 25 reviews with only one stating that the bearing has failed. It also looks like you'll save around $70 since it includes bolts.

This is really your call. If you can afford the piece of mind with the AISIN OE then have at it, otherwise the other two pumps in FCPeuro seem very trustworthy. I'm kinda starting to wish i picked the other two.

3. If you're doing this in your garage over the weekend, then take all the "time" you need. On the streets outside, well it depends on you.

There's too many videos of people doing the timing belt jobs on youtube. You just need to watch them a few million times until you're confident, and have the tools.

And the only reason to give this to a mechanic is if you don't have the time/space, and if you also need to replace the camshaft seals behind the top two pulleys. That is very hard.

4. It just cost to much to have a one time tool sitting around. And there's plenty of videos and help showing you how to line up the notches to get the right timing on the three pulleys without any locking tool.

5. I live in Brooklyn so I can't pass by to cheer you on, but I know if there's a butch of videos showing you how to do it, then I am sure you can do it too.

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 30 Mar 2023, 11:11

Much thanks - I have a nice garage and a large paved area, either one, to set up the car. I plan to zip tie the heck out of the belt to make sure it does not jump a tooth. My T belt looks great - no cracks or signs of wear - but, yeah, if the local parts house can get me the belt and tensioner, I'll do the work. Now about that 30MM socket ----

I have flashbacks of doing an Alfa in my early days - I spent much time checking out the timing before i cranked it. Rocking it back and forth. And I found I jumped a tooth on one of the cams..

Post by **Blacklab467** » 30 Mar 2023, 11:29

Like vti says, get an Aisin pump, Conti belt and replace the pulleys while you're in there. I've attached a post below that shows how to mark the old one before you take it off. It's a simple job that won't take all day. I found it easier to leave the crankshaft pulley on, the new belt slips in behind it quite easy when you remove the small plastic shield. Watch a few videos first. Good luck!viewtopic.php?p=582002#p582002

Post by **matthew1** » 30 Mar 2023, 11:33

(azureblue, please "Thank" the users in this post you feel have helped you. Below is where you find it on a desktop, in mobile, it's in the dropdown menu in the same location. Sorry for the interruption, please continue... )

: thanks.png (29.17 KiB) Viewed 432 times

Post by **firstv70volvo** » 30 Mar 2023, 12:33

In addition to all the good advice you're receive so far I would recommend having some gasket remover on hand, foam or gel type to help soften and remove any old gasket material remaining inside the water pump cavity. From experience I found it difficult to remove old gasket material from inside the cavity and you want to make sure it's all cleaned off to prevent any leaks. I can't recall but I think the water pump bolt threads should be sealed too. There is an engine block drain between rear of engine and firewall if you want to drain the coolant before removing the water pump.

Aisin pumps are excellent and so are the Aisin timing belt kits.

Use the MVS Amazon link
AISIN TKV-001 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 30 Mar 2023, 13:22

I can only add my vote to do the job correct the first time. You have no idea how many miles is on belt and pulleys so why to risk that tomorrow that belt will break and all the money that you invested today to fix the water pump will be thrown into the garbage? Plus just imagine that you have some squicky noise in a month or two from those pulleys and you have to once again spend a weekend to fix it. Better debit once and go fishing later

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 30 Mar 2023, 17:48

At least the local parts store had the Pump, but they have to SO the belt - 3 day delivery. Maybe Friday I will get lucky and get to the dealer for the belt and tensioner.. But at least I have a pump in my hands.

I was surprised at how fast it went from a drip to incontinence ..

Post by **vtl** » 30 Mar 2023, 18:36

What brand is your pump? I've heard stories about aftermarket pumps breaking apart, sometimes ruining engine.