96 850R what to evaluate for potential bent subframe?

Post by **foggydogg** » 07 Feb 2024, 10:22

It has been my experience that it's much easier to see issues once the obviously bent stuff is replaced, especially the front strut.
Unless Brother Knievel got really big air, the suspension bits are more likely to bend than the sturdier parts of the car.
Since there is a donor car on scene, swap the bolt-on items and then do the old stock car racer measurements to see where things stand.
Since I am both old and a stock car racer, I can walk you through that.

Post by **BlackBart** » 07 Feb 2024, 12:46

I agree with foggydog - put a straight new or used strut on it and measure.

greg850r · Post by **greg850r** » 11 Feb 2024, 11:16

I bought one that had done some offroading. I just swapped subframes with a donor car and never looked back. On mine you could see where the subframe had contacted something so I didn't bother to measure. I would measure point to point on the donor car and compare to the keeper until I was satisfied one way or the other.

camjohns · Post by **camjohns** » 12 Feb 2024, 19:15

Finally got around to taking the whole driver side suspension equipment out including axle and hub.

As I unscrewed the axle nut from the hub the hub came apart and the bolt stripped the end of the threads off of the head of the axle, not sure if the accident shifted it just enough, but at least I was able to get it off.

Upon further examination of the mounts that the control arm go into at the subframe the one closest to the rear is definitely bent, although slightly. There is a small crack in the weld but not completely torn.

I'll post pictures when I get a chance

I haven't examined the subframe further to try to evaluate anything bent. I'm currently thinking about putting the whole driver side back together with parts from the donor and going from there.

If I am missing something please share!

Post by **foggydogg** » 14 Feb 2024, 07:46

Sounds like a good plan, especially since the rear damage is unknown at this point. Get the front together and back on the ground, attack the rear issue, and see if that gets close to Normal. Worse but not worst case scenario for the front would be a subframe swap - not pleasant but doable, ask how I know - but if the tub is oilcanned someplace that isn't fixable in the driveway.

Post by **BlackBart** » 14 Feb 2024, 11:40

Would it weaken the steel of those mounts to heat them up red and hammer back straight? You'd need to measure first so you know where / why you're moving pieces.

Post by **abscate** » 15 Feb 2024, 03:31

I have a subframe sitting in upstate NY and do travel frequently your way.

Post by **foggydogg** » 15 Feb 2024, 10:38

abscate wrote: 15 Feb 2024, 03:31 I have a subframe sitting in upstate NY and do travel frequently your way.

There seems to be a donor car on the premises.

Post by **foggydogg** » 15 Feb 2024, 10:43

Use a large crescent wrench or light blows with a heavy hammer to get the tabs to cooperate. I would avoid heat, you shouldn't need it.
Hang the stuff on the front, take a breath, and do the same to the bits on the rear. That may be a bigger issue, but step one in the Scientific Method is direct observation.
Either use bricks and 2x4s or something like this to see where things stand after:
www.amazon.com/HECASA-Plates-Wheel-Alig ... 523&sr=1-4
Don't forget to use Matthews' Amazon link - that's how I found the listing but I don't know if it transfers with paste.

Post by **foggydogg** » 15 Feb 2024, 10:49

camjohns wrote: 12 Feb 2024, 19:15
As I unscrewed the axle nut from the hub the hub came apart and the bolt stripped the end of the threads off of the head of the axle,...

If the axle has never been out of the donor car, use heat on the axle nut. Might need some on the hub too to get the splines to release, the factory MAY have used some threadlock in that area. Heat will plasticize it momentarily to get it to give up its grip.