I overcharged my xc90 and now it wont start,electrical problems
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volvochesterct
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 28 June 2024
- Year and Model: 2006 xc90
- Location: ct
Re: I overcharged my xc90 and now it wont start,electrical problems
I guess the moral of the story is to buy a newer smarter charger thats shuts off if you forget and leave it on for my next volvo
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volvochesterct
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 28 June 2024
- Year and Model: 2006 xc90
- Location: ct
I guess the moral of the story is to buy a newer smarter charger with auto shutoff for my next volvo
- matthew1
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Yea, they're inexpensive as ever https://amzn.to/3xuaL7J
Sorry this happened to you. I'm following. The only thing I can think of is to contact the + terminal with the body (ground) to zero out any residual charge in the system. (Without the battery in the loop, on either polarity.) I doubt it will help given everything else you've tried.
Sorry this happened to you. I'm following. The only thing I can think of is to contact the + terminal with the body (ground) to zero out any residual charge in the system. (Without the battery in the loop, on either polarity.) I doubt it will help given everything else you've tried.
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Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
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chitownV
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Let’s hope it’s just a coincidence and something simple like a worn out starter.
Whether it’s now or later, if you plan to keep this one or get a newer used XC90, it may help to get an OBDII scanner or VIDA. Even a cheaper $32 one from Amazon that uses Bluetooth and a phone app will help to read many of the engine codes and show live data. Should work on your van too. https://a.co/d/05qKI4Aj
Next time, try to avoid jump starting with jumper cables and another vehicle. With all the electronic modules, a voltage spike could cause damage. You mentioned CEM, but it could also be your ECM or engine computer.
Using one of the jump starter battery packs is safer. They also come nowadays with fault detection in case the cables are accidentally reversed as well as fusible links in case of overheating. https://a.co/d/09vLjfrP
Yes about the battery charger. Besides a 10A taking up space, the highest I go is ~4A with my CTEK which has options for AGM, smaller batteries, and reconditioning. Instead of a straight charge then shut off when it reaches ~14V, something like the CTEK will build up voltage/current and then draw it down in different modes. Well worth the safety and quality of charging. After buying 4 other trickle/float chargers in the last 15 years, this one performed the best for me. YMMV https://a.co/d/05AYA0df
Remember you can install a larger H8 size battery if you have an H6 one. The larger capacity can help if you need to keep the accessories on with engine off, like for playing & singing songs with kids while waiting for someone, or for charging tools as a carpenter.
Good luck with the diagnosis and repair
Whether it’s now or later, if you plan to keep this one or get a newer used XC90, it may help to get an OBDII scanner or VIDA. Even a cheaper $32 one from Amazon that uses Bluetooth and a phone app will help to read many of the engine codes and show live data. Should work on your van too. https://a.co/d/05qKI4Aj
Next time, try to avoid jump starting with jumper cables and another vehicle. With all the electronic modules, a voltage spike could cause damage. You mentioned CEM, but it could also be your ECM or engine computer.
Using one of the jump starter battery packs is safer. They also come nowadays with fault detection in case the cables are accidentally reversed as well as fusible links in case of overheating. https://a.co/d/09vLjfrP
Yes about the battery charger. Besides a 10A taking up space, the highest I go is ~4A with my CTEK which has options for AGM, smaller batteries, and reconditioning. Instead of a straight charge then shut off when it reaches ~14V, something like the CTEK will build up voltage/current and then draw it down in different modes. Well worth the safety and quality of charging. After buying 4 other trickle/float chargers in the last 15 years, this one performed the best for me. YMMV https://a.co/d/05AYA0df
Remember you can install a larger H8 size battery if you have an H6 one. The larger capacity can help if you need to keep the accessories on with engine off, like for playing & singing songs with kids while waiting for someone, or for charging tools as a carpenter.
Good luck with the diagnosis and repair
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If it is diagnosed as just the starter should be easy for your mechanic to fit a new one. I’ve done two on the 5 cylinders and it’s a pretty easy job, right under the intake manifold.
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- volvolugnut
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OK, but what was the load when you made these voltage readings? Headlights? None? Ignition switch 0, 1, or 2?volvochesterct wrote: ↑29 Jun 2024, 10:46 well my neighbor came over with a voltage tested and we reading 12.2 at the front of the car and 12.8 at the battery in the trunk. Starter fuse is good.
Im thinking a tow to the volvo mechanic may be in order next. Get a diagnostic and see what whats..If its a relay or some immobilizer function or something simple I will pay to fix but if its a costly CEM repairs with hours chasing gremlins I will say goodbye and use that money towards a newer used xc90. I did try to jumpstart it today no luck
The voltage drop seems high is there was no load. If so, you may have corrosion on the wiring or wire damage.
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volvochesterct
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 28 June 2024
- Year and Model: 2006 xc90
- Location: ct
my headlights were on and ignition was at 2.
- volvolugnut
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OK. That seems reasonable to me.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
- ggleavitt
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"My sunroof won't open. My interior lights won't come on."
If this is still a problem, maybe see about fuses on the left side of the dash (11C block), specifically 12 and 13. Maybe have a look at the symptoms in this post- viewtopic.php?t=83377 in the meantime to see if anything resonates. Having the codes read will provide granularity to the fault but you can check the fuses as an easy first step.
If this is still a problem, maybe see about fuses on the left side of the dash (11C block), specifically 12 and 13. Maybe have a look at the symptoms in this post- viewtopic.php?t=83377 in the meantime to see if anything resonates. Having the codes read will provide granularity to the fault but you can check the fuses as an easy first step.
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volvochesterct
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 28 June 2024
- Year and Model: 2006 xc90
- Location: ct
We used to go to european auto in old lyme for years but unfortunately john retired.They were the best.I live in chester ct-can anybody on here who might be from this genral area recommend a volvo specific mechanic to bring it to?or a mobile mechanic?thanks
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