Misfire ONLY at idle?

Post by **jblackburn** » 24 May 2010, 18:40

That red one came from a turbo S70.

That's exactly what I did for getting my radio code.

Give these guys a call and read off your VIN:
http://www.volvoofthetriad.com/

Take your phone out with you just in case and punch in the number as they give it to you, some radios have been changed, and in that case you'll need to read the serial no from the top of the radio.

Cory · Post by **Cory** » 24 May 2010, 19:25

Interesting about the injector... I'm assuming that would probably be a higher flowing injector, correct? And thus cause the rich/flooding condition?

Great info jablackburn! I will definitely be calling them tom.! Do I need to mention the forum or are they ok with ppl just calling up demanding radio codes? Haha.

---Cory

Post by **jblackburn** » 24 May 2010, 22:21

Oh, and orange/yellows are the same. Yeah, the red one lets more fuel flow through, so it could have been throwing off your balance.

I'm not sure if they have ever even heard of us, but they've helped me out in the past, one of the more helpful dealers I've dealt with.

Our dealer here in Roanoke also sells Land Rovers, Jaguars, Porsches, Mercedes, and some other expensive car along with Volvos, they don't care too much for the older Volvo customers anymore

Cory · Post by **Cory** » 25 May 2010, 15:49

Jablackburn,

I pulled the radio out just in case I needed the serial like you said and it turns out the code was written on the top of the radio so that made things easier!

I pulled the battery cable and waited like 30 minutes (while draining the random water from the spare tire well...nasty!) and plugged it back up. The car still idles the same but I only had time to run it for maybe a minute. I know it takes like 100 miles or so for the car to relearn the mapping but the idle was still rough.

I'm thinking it may be time for a complete injector overhaul. If someone changed that one, possibly because it was clogged and/or malfunctioning, then it may be time to get the others fully clean and operational.

I read over the popular link for cleaning them and will do that as soon as I find new seals, filters, etc. Any ideas as to who sells the filters?? I was able to find a seal kit in Autozone but no filters.

Or should I be looking in another direction? Like the crank sensor like you said.

I will try and drive the car for awhile tomorrow and borrow the Scantool from Autozone to report any codes that pop up and report back.

---Cory

Post by **jblackburn** » 25 May 2010, 16:03

Cool, saved you a call

The fuel filter is something that you'll have to order or stop by a dealer for. You can get it several places online, all of our sponsors at the top of the page there will carry it.

The crank sensor would PROBABLY throw a code, and they only tend to act up when hot before failing completely. If there's no code, don't worry about that for now.

See what cleaning them does for you, if anything you'll only be doing preventative maintenance that's good for it.

Cory · Post by **Cory** » 26 May 2010, 22:41

It most certainly did save me a call! And any future trouble if I forget the code.

Ok so today I drove the S70 around (only about 15 miles or so) after clearing the misfire (p0301- #1 cylinder) code and no codes popped up but it still feels like it is misfiring at idle. I am feeling the vibration through the steering wheel. The next thing on my list it the timing side motor mount (which already arrived from FCP Groton!) and a thorough cleaning of the fuel injectors. If that doesn't fix the vibration in the steering wheel at idle where else should I be looking??

Jablackburn, your quick responses to my questions have been invaluable to my search for an answer and are much appreciated! Thank you!

---Cory

Cory · Post by **Cory** » 26 May 2010, 22:45

Also could the misfire feeling at idle be caused by excess carbon being built up in the #1 cylinder from what I assume could be years of running a super-rich condition in that cylinder?
When I pulled the spark plugs and looked down the hole, I noticed that there was quite a bit of carbon built up on the #1 cylinder. Just an idea I guess. Should I repeat the seafoam treatment to try and remove it?

Post by **jblackburn** » 26 May 2010, 23:49

No problem.

I would say either could be a possibility. The main cause of excessive engine vibration is bad engine mounts...right now that same one is bad on mine, and in D with the AC running at a stoplight, it really gets on my nerves.

The seafoam would probably only do good things for it as well. Matt just did a great how-to in the general section of the forum for using it.

Cory · Post by **Cory** » 01 Jun 2010, 10:45

Ok so yesterday I finally got around to changing the timing belt side motor mount. Very easy job btw. Took me about 40 minutes from start to finish. I dont think the old mount was bad but since I had already removed it there was no sense in not replacing it.

I cranked the car up and the vibration is lessened but still very evident. So I guess its back to figuring out what is causing the misfire. Im thinking that the best way to explain what is occurring would be to post a video on here. I also got a CEL, which I will read in a few minutes and post results of, and my ABS and TRACS light keeps coming on periodically. Sometimes I will crank the car up and it will not be there and other times it will be on and stay on for awhile. I doubt that relates to the engine vibration and is probably best dealt with in a different post (Ive read alot of posts about repairing the ABS module to solve that problem).

I also cleaned the injectors (soaked them overnight in Chemtool B12 and made a harness to open them so they could be sprayed out). It also made a slight improvement in the vibration felt. Or...maybe its just in my head. Either way I feel like the repairs I have done so far have reduced the vibration by about 75% but it is still bugging the heck out of me.

Cory · Post by **Cory** » 01 Jun 2010, 11:31

Still getting the P0301 code. Misfire in the #1 cylinder.