I went to NAPA to buy GO5 Zerex and ...

Post by **jmmxc** » 02 Oct 2010, 11:33

Hi All:
Very good and helpfull discussion....Cascade...how did you find that out?
Allow me to contribute to the discussion by posting this article, which might be of interest to some of you.
I found it very informative and perhaps you can comment on it, relative to volvo car coolant requirements.
Thanks,
jmmxc
Volvo Sedan GLT 1996

Post by **JimBee** » 02 Oct 2010, 15:45

So, jmmxc, which coolant do you use in your 850?

Post by **JDS60R** » 02 Oct 2010, 19:26

The article makes some good points. It is also outdated as many documented cases of issues when certain types are mixed have occurred. Currently you are forewarned to not add more than 15% of a different fluid to top off with.

Hopefully many will read and understand the issue of using an OAT when a HOAT is needed. In the Ford motor, damage occurred quickly. This is the same reason I am always recommending a HOAT for our cars instead of an OAT like Prestone etc. If you have a turbo and you don't use a HOAT - you are asking for it.

Post by **JimBee** » 02 Oct 2010, 19:54

I think we're zeroing in on a bottom line

Volvo coolant is said to cost ~ $30.00/gal. I haven't checked into it but will. Is there another brand of HOAT at substantially gold than the Volvo stuff that otherwise should be equivalent?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 02 Oct 2010, 20:25

We are back to the beginning. Zerex G05 is HOAT and phosphate free. From my perspective that is close enough even if it isn't blue. At around $12.00 / gallon uncut it is easily half the price of the Volvo stuff.

All four of mine have been running on the Zerex stuff and have no coolant related problems short of the heater core on the '94 and that was when I changed from the green stuff that was in it before.

Flame shields are ON since I'm sure it is coming.

...Lee

Post by **jmmxc** » 03 Oct 2010, 13:47

by JimBee » Yesterday, 4:45 pm

So, jmmxc, which coolant do you use in your 850?

Well, I had used Prestone 50/50 early this summer. I had no idea a particular type was this important, coupled with the fact that repair centers do not seem to make specific recommendations every time they would check and top off the tank. They would use the yellow stuff (prestone). Until I delved into the issue in 2 previous extensive threads about coolant on this site, I began to understand the potential danger ahead...
To answer the question: About 2 or 3 weeks ago, I (quietely) flushed the rad (disconnected top/bottom hoses) and changed to Zerex G-05.
I have had no issue before....but early prevention is the best med.
jmmxc

Post by **shiloh51933** » 03 Oct 2010, 18:16

I personally wouldn't put in anything but the Volvo brand, you only change this fluid once every 2 years so why not use the best. If you really can't swing it then a 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol-based antifreeze and distilled water.

Post by **JDS60R** » 05 Oct 2010, 15:03

I can usually buy the Volvo coolant for $20-$23 per gallon from the dealer so I don't have experience with the G-05. If I remember Zerex had a HOAT that was very clsoe to the Volvo fluid but was only sold in the UK.

Above we were talking about using cascade dishwasher gel for stubborn deposits. For normal flushing I would just suggest any normal off the shelf pre flush..

You can also seek out BMW blue coolant as its the same thing without the bittering agent. Your local BMW car or motorcycle dealer normally carries it.

I suggest you mix the coolant and water 50/50 for best heat transfer. You can get higher boiling points and lower freeze points with a different concentration but will sacrifice heat transfer. If you live in an extremely cold climate you may need a higher concentration but fot the hottest of climates I still suggest a 50/50 .

I always poor the gallon of antifreeze and water into a container to mix them and then refil my containers with premixed. This way I always have it ready and can throw a gallon in the trunk for trips.

If you don't service your cooling system often then add a pressure cap and thermostat to your list. Its the perfect time to replace hoses and clamps as well. We have had the most success with Gates hoses and clamps . Most of the specialty hoses on the car can only be had from Volvo so that is where I get them.

I plan ahead and get a discount for ordering everything I need up front. The Gates SB powergrip clamps are a great way to eliminate leaks and remove tightening clamps from your maintanance list. Its not a big deal to tighten a clamp but lately the hoses are extremely soft and many of the clamps are cutting into them over time . I prefer the set it and forget it idea of the SB powergrip.
Search out Gates power grip or gatesfluidpower on youtube for more info

Post by **JimBee** » 05 Oct 2010, 15:34

So the question for me comes down to the best protection of sensitive metals in radiator and heater core and least corrosion of water pump. From this thread I'm getting that ethelyne glycol doesn't provide the best protection, but that's what the Volvo formula is. So is the GO-5 actually a better product for the 850? I'm not that concerned about the ten dollar difference. I appreciate that you all are willing to hash this out til we get to the bottom line—protection

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 05 Oct 2010, 21:17

You can, at least up until now with new Chinese ownership, never go wrong with OEM Volvo stuff. That said, I have found a few products that seem to work equally as well at a lower cost point. With 4 Volvos in the driveway at any given moment (and if there are not 4 of them there it is because both of my kids are in college - as in Tuition) it all adds up so I look to save where I can when it makes sense.

Thus far G05 has worked just fine on the three of them that I have replaced it with and the 4th (the S70) is coming soon with G05 as well.

If you want maximum piece of mind spend the extra money and buy OEM.

...Lee

I went to NAPA to buy GO5 Zerex and ...

Re: I went to NAPA to buy GO5 Zerex and ...