DIY: 98 V70 Engine Oil Change (& ATF Change): the Easy Way! Topic is solved

[LamboSE5]

I like this question...

[cn90]

...OEM is Mann W917 (Bosch 72138 is basically Mann). Not to argue, but what is your basis for this claim. Are the two companies related?

If you hold the Bosch 72138 in your hand and compare it against the Mann W917, they are virtually identical, from size, finish, rubber gasket to internal valve. The only difference is the paint on the outside.
Bosch does not make all oil filters, in certain situations, Bosch simply asks Mann to make the oil filters for them. And paint the Bosch logo on the oil filters.

...I have a quick question about the tranny fluid drain... Most people like to drain oil HOT. People also know that many people report problems with changing tranny fluid.
I'm wondering if it matters if you change/drain the tranny fluid hot or cold. Do you think it would be safer to drain the fluid cold?

From a scientific standpoint, it does not matter hot or cold as ATF drains anyway.
The only problem with hot is risk of burning your fingers. IMHO, if you just went shopping somewhere, then let the car cool down a bit. If you can touch the transmission casing with your bare hands, then it is about the right temp.
Wear gloves.

[xHeart]

- If you have not done so, it is time to install screw type clamps on the Upper and Lower Trans Cooler Connectors to prevent them from coming off (search forum for pictures)!

Extremely helpful writeup. Thank you!
I am preparing for Mobil 3309 D&F, but can not find a thread for "installing screw type clamps on the Upper and Lower Trans Cooler Connectors".
TIA.

[cn90]

...Extremely helpful writeup. Thank you!
I am preparing for Mobil 3309 D&F, but can not find a thread for "installing screw type clamps on the Upper and Lower Trans Cooler Connectors".
TIA.

1. Actually it is very easy to make this mistake as the "Clip" looks symmetrical but upon close inspection, the THICKER side Must go to the Trans Cooler. The THINNER side goes to the Hose.
See pic!

2. Trick to re-install:

- Use a snap ring plier and GENTLY spread the clip, apply it on the Hose first.

- The attach (push it) it to the Trans Cooler. You will hear a click.

- To secure it, the Volvo Dealer mechanic uses a single worm-type clamp (single clamp is good enough) to prevent the clip from spreading apart.
The Volvo Dealer mechanic told me they see this all the time: Trans flushed elsewhere, indy mechanic re-install the clip backward (Cannot blame indy mechanics because it is VERY EASY to make this mistake).
So soon or later ATF gushed out, car stalled, towed to dealer etc.
I guess you can zip tie the clip but the worm-type clamp is much better.

So for those of you who drive long-distance, I'd suggest a worm-type clamp. Peace of mind is worth $1 million bucks.

3. Then refill trans with ATF.
I use Mobil1 ATF.

clip.JPG (29.58 KiB) Viewed 7701 times

[cn90]

You can see in this pic, some people use zip tie to wrap around the "Clip", but personally I like screw-type clamp better.

clip2.JPG (76.75 KiB) Viewed 2350 times

[MoVolvos]

I have a quick question about the tranny fluid drain... Most people like to drain oil HOT. People also know that many people report problems with changing tranny fluid.

I'm wondering if it matters if you change/drain the tranny fluid hot or cold. Do you think it would be safer to drain the fluid cold?

Read this entire Post sort of quickly and did not see a reply so... Hot is better but IT WILL gush out and go all over the place if you are not very, very careful. You'll also get more out the first time around. HOT Honda Odyssey Transflush - during the initial drain of the transmission it produced 4.5 qt when the Manual said 3.6 Qt drain and fill. Definitely need to wear glasses if you are under the car which are on ramps or jack stands. When hot it almost flows like water when compared to cold transfluid.

Blessings,

BKM

[xHeart]

Should there be a separate topic for "Upper and Lower Tranny Fluid Cooler Connectors"? Your call cn90.

Is this the upper connector?

MVS_3930a.jpg (424.48 KiB) Viewed 2324 times

Is this the connector? If so, comparing with your photo this looks like it is on its last lag. Or is it normal?

[MoVolvos]

It looks like it is leaking from the O-Rings back rather than the metal connector on the hose. If it was seeping that "EVER SO, SOOO SLOOOWLY" it would only be at the metal connector on the hose going back due to the air movement/direction through the front of the car and not forward into the female end of the radiator. Clean remove and flush the system and if it is indeed the hose you will not lose much fluid replacing it later.

Blessings,

BKM
-

[cn90]

...Is this the connector? If so, comparing with your photo this looks like it is on its last lag. Or is it normal?

It is normal to see a bit of leak there.
Yes, it is the UPPER connector:

1. Go to dealer and buy the O-rings x2 (they are cheap, a few dollars each): for UPPER and LOWER hoses.

2. Clean the areas, the replace the O-rings.
Note: it is easier with snap-ring pliers.
When re-installing, make sure you have the clip in PROPER ORIENTATION (Thick side and Thin side).

3.Then monitor leak. Most of these leaks around the crimped section of the hose is slow in nature (rarely bursted).
So it is your call to replace these 2 lines.

Take the opportunity to flush the ATF too. Search forum for tons of info.

[xHeart]

It looks like it is leaking from the O-Rings back rather than the metal connector on the hose... Clean remove and flush the system and if it is indeed the hose you will not lose much fluid replacing it later.

This is vertically a foot below the UPPER connector...

MVS_3931a.jpg (386.4 KiB) Viewed 2308 times

A foot below the UPPER, I believe this is the LOWER, showing similar symptoms.
Flush system is COOLANT or ATF?

It is normal to see a bit of leak there.
Yes, it is the UPPER connector:

1. Go to dealer and buy the O-rings x2 (they are cheap, a few dollars each): for UPPER and LOWER hoses.

2. Clean the areas, the replace the O-rings.
Note: it is easier with snap-ring pliers.
When re-installing, make sure you have the clip in PROPER ORIENTATION (Thick side and Thin side).

3.Then monitor leak. Most of these leaks around the crimped section of the hose is slow in nature (rarely bursted).
So it is your call to replace these 2 lines.

Take the opportunity to flush the ATF too. Search forum for tons of info.

This item now is in my to-do list.
I completed the oil change, and 1 of 3 ATF-D&F, that is where I learned about the connectors. So I ask:
- if the hoses cycle ATF, could I fix these before the 2 of 3 D&F (two-weeks)?
- picture of the LOWER also shows small leak, will both loose fluid when pulling the hoses out for cleaning and replacing the O-rings?
- would 409 work for cleaning?
- does "...replace these 2 lines" mean 2 hoses?

Many thanks!