New to me 98 v70r

[sliptones629]

The way I see it anytime you use stop leak you run a risk of clogging something that shouldn't be clogged. Whether that's an acceptable risk or not is up to you of course. I think since it's an R its worth replacing the part(s) rather than adding nasty goop to the system. I had some "OK" experiences with stop leak until it caused a blockage in a 1.8T VW and cracked the head. Its anecdotal experience of course, but I think its worth noting. I'm not a major fan of kittens but if I can save a kitten and a head replacement at the same time, I'll go for it

JMO.

Thank you for the input. The reason I am wary is because of an issue I just went through with my other car. Previous owner had the motor rebuilt but the machine shop took too much material off of the head and the block as well as leaving the wrong RA finish. We went to fire up the car after the new engine was put in, not knowing this prior, and it began leaking oil. I was lucky that I had an identical engine I just removed to have more machine work done to start all over.

Since I know this head has been removed, I am afraid of the same thing happening again(taking it apart to find out nothing can be done with it.) I do not have another engine at my disposal and do not currently have the funds to buy another one and have that one rebuilt. I also wouldn't trust any motor I bought from someone to be ready to drop in and run. I would basically want to rebuild the whole thing and start new.

I guess at this point I will at least hold off on the stop leak treatment and flush the coolant another time or two then see where I am. It seems to be what I have read that it sometimes takes a couple of times to get all the silt and crud out of the cooling system.

[sliptones629]

So yeah, it's always something.

Today's drama is as follows. Dropped it off to have the coolant drained and filled again, install upper engine torque mount, oil change, IPD brake lines installed and brakes bled. First found out the firewall bushing is also broken, no big deal, I can just order a poly one to replace it with. Steering rack started to leak. 4" puddle after about 20 minutes. Flare nuts on the brake lines are all beyond frozen on. Just bleeding them at this point. It only figures that every other part that I didn't think of would magically die at this point.

[obayha]

Just hang it there.
I really think it's the pollen in the air.
On the way home yesterday, my ABS/TRAx light came back on.
GRRRRRR.
Need to change my sig line again.
Shane

[rspi]

Nice looking car to be from PA. I use to live in Pittsburgh and most 15 year old cars look like tanks converted to cars.

As for your key ring, IPD sells the plastic holders. New remotes would need to be programmed by the steeler.
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4818/115 ... th-buttons

I tried to get the brake lines loose on our S70 and could not. I have to figure it out soon, they are starting to crack. As long as the gasket leak is not causing coolant to get into the piston chamber, I probably would let it go until it get a little worse.

And yea, get rid of that boost gauge. It looks more like a red neck rig to me.

[sliptones629]

Nice looking car to be from PA. I use to live in Pittsburgh and most 15 year old cars look like tanks converted to cars.

As for your key ring, IPD sells the plastic holders. New remotes would need to be programmed by the steeler.
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4818/115 ... th-buttons

I tried to get the brake lines loose on our S70 and could not. I have to figure it out soon, they are starting to crack. As long as the gasket leak is not causing coolant to get into the piston chamber, I probably would let it go until it get a little worse.

And yea, get rid of that boost gauge. It looks more like a red neck rig to me.

Thank you. Its actually from NY. Not much better. I got him to drive 2 hours down to my friends place so I would only have to drive 3 hours. It has its fair share of dents, scrapes and scratches. I am going to try to get a picture of the leak tomorrow in the daylight so you guys can see what I am working with. The duct taped gauge really, really, REALLY bothers me. I am thinking that I will order one of the ARD vent pods to mount it into. As far as the steering rack goes, we did put some Lucas stop leak in it at least for a temporary fix. There are some other things I need to get done that make me not want to shell out ~$1500 for the rack and associated work that goes with it. At least not at this immediate moment in time. I am going to have the car looked over again by a Volvo expert shop near me this coming Tuesday. I know it isn't the end of the world but frustrating none the less.

[rspi]

Man, if that car gets on any of your nerves let me know, I'll come get it. It's 14 years old so I'm sure there's a lot wrong with it. It may be in better shape than my T-5R wagon was in when I got it but my wagon has really shapped up. Takes time, keeping it up while restoring it at the same time. That's the only car I'd have other than my T-5R. The only thing I would be worried about is the compression and AutoCheck report. I flew to the Provicance area to pick up my car and drove it back to Arkansas with a bad tranny.

Yes, my rack leaks as well. About a quart per year. I'll put something in it soon to see if it will stop.

[sliptones629]

And the newest developments in this adventure are as follows;

I dropped my car off at a local Volvo expert to have them look it over as well along with a few other things on Wednesday. Over all he thinks it seems like a good car for what it cost. He also wondered why the previous owner would put all the money into fixing things to just get rid of it(viscous coupling, angle gear service etc.) I had him change my oil and filter which I supplied both. And he informed me that my dip stick seal needed to be replaced. He checked into adjusting my e-brake but said that the cables need to be replaced from being seized up. But also said it runs about $600 (parts and labor including new shoes as well) and I might want to hold off on that for now. He recommended running some BG products through it to clean up years of gunk. I had him go ahead and do the BG Compression Performance Restoration, BG motor oil additive and the BG Plenum/fuel injector cleaner. The car feels a lot better than when I left it that morning. I got the serpentine belt replaced. I had forgotten that I left the IPD brake lines in the car and he offered to install them along with the BG brake system flush. It took him a few hours to do the brakes since everything was all seized up. You can definitely tell its a ct/ny car. He got them all on besides one that he had to add about a 5" piece of brake line.

Yesterday morning I went ahead and did my ignition tune-up I had just gotten the parts for on Thursday(cap, rotor, wiresand plugs.) All of that went fine for me after a couple of hours. It all came apart and went back together....and it still ran!! I'm sure it would have taken less time if I wasn't so OCD that I cleaned all the oil out of the crevices on the valve cover and re-ran a vacuum line that I didn't like. After that I took it over to my friend so we could do the firewall bushing. It helps to know people with tools you don't have, like a press. Pretty much everything went according to plan and I even picked up a fender for my other car from a friend.

[PooYork]

And the newest developments in this adventure are as follows;

I dropped my car off at a local Volvo expert to have them look it over as well along with a few other things on Wednesday. Over all he thinks it seems like a good car for what it cost. He also wondered why the previous owner would put all the money into fixing things to just get rid of it(viscous coupling, angle gear service etc.) I had him change my oil and filter which I supplied both. And he informed me that my dip stick seal needed to be replaced. He checked into adjusting my e-brake but said that the cables need to be replaced from being seized up. But also said it runs about $600 (parts and labor including new shoes as well) and I might want to hold off on that for now. He recommended running some BG products through it to clean up years of gunk. I had him go ahead and do the BG Compression Performance Restoration, BG motor oil additive and the BG Plenum/fuel injector cleaner. The car feels a lot better than when I left it that morning. I got the serpentine belt replaced. I had forgotten that I left the IPD brake lines in the car and he offered to install them along with the BG brake system flush. It took him a few hours to do the brakes since everything was all seized up. You can definitely tell its a ct/ny car. He got them all on besides one that he had to add about a 5" piece of brake line.

Yesterday morning I went ahead and did my ignition tune-up I had just gotten the parts for on Thursday(cap, rotor, wiresand plugs.) All of that went fine for me after a couple of hours. It all came apart and went back together....and it still ran!! I'm sure it would have taken less time if I wasn't so OCD that I cleaned all the oil out of the crevices on the valve cover and re-ran a vacuum line that I didn't like. After that I took it over to my friend so we could do the firewall bushing. It helps to know people with tools you don't have, like a press. Pretty much everything went according to plan and I even picked up a fender for my other car from a friend.

Thanks for following up! I was wondering what happened to you and your sexy new V70r. I'm glad everything is coming together for you. Wish me luck on my 00' V70

[sliptones629]

And the newest developments in this adventure are as follows;

I dropped my car off at a local Volvo expert to have them look it over as well along with a few other things on Wednesday. Over all he thinks it seems like a good car for what it cost. He also wondered why the previous owner would put all the money into fixing things to just get rid of it(viscous coupling, angle gear service etc.) I had him change my oil and filter which I supplied both. And he informed me that my dip stick seal needed to be replaced. He checked into adjusting my e-brake but said that the cables need to be replaced from being seized up. But also said it runs about $600 (parts and labor including new shoes as well) and I might want to hold off on that for now. He recommended running some BG products through it to clean up years of gunk. I had him go ahead and do the BG Compression Performance Restoration, BG motor oil additive and the BG Plenum/fuel injector cleaner. The car feels a lot better than when I left it that morning. I got the serpentine belt replaced. I had forgotten that I left the IPD brake lines in the car and he offered to install them along with the BG brake system flush. It took him a few hours to do the brakes since everything was all seized up. You can definitely tell its a ct/ny car. He got them all on besides one that he had to add about a 5" piece of brake line.

Yesterday morning I went ahead and did my ignition tune-up I had just gotten the parts for on Thursday(cap, rotor, wiresand plugs.) All of that went fine for me after a couple of hours. It all came apart and went back together....and it still ran!! I'm sure it would have taken less time if I wasn't so OCD that I cleaned all the oil out of the crevices on the valve cover and re-ran a vacuum line that I didn't like. After that I took it over to my friend so we could do the firewall bushing. It helps to know people with tools you don't have, like a press. Pretty much everything went according to plan and I even picked up a fender for my other car from a friend.

Thanks for following up! I was wondering what happened to you and your sexy new V70r. I'm glad everything is coming together for you. Wish me luck on my 00' V70

Good luck because I know you will need it. I could still use some.

I'm taking it today to have the tint removed so I can hopefully pass the state inspection. Then I get to have more put back on, yay! Hopefully my steering rack doesn't cause an issue or anything else for that matter concerning the inspection. Both places that have looked at the car think it should be fine though.

My shifter button has started acting up now and sticking sometimes. Add another thing to the never ending list I suppose.

[sliptones629]

Tint is removed. My car is uglier now. Inspection is passed though!

So time to get regular registration now. And put tint back on the windows.

I found out I need front rotors really soon. Is there an easier way to tell if I have 280 or 302mm rotors than taking the wheel off and measuring?