A/C not healthy on a 850

Post by **steve850** » 15 Apr 2012, 23:13

Aside from low refrigerant, You may also have clutch spacer issues. One test is if the ac clutch is "on" (cooling) and it stops as it warm up, give it whack with a broom handle (or something similar made of wood) on the face of the clutch unit. If it kicks back in for a few minutes, you probably need to shim the clutch. There are ways, real and ghetto (look it up, lol) i did a "steve's modified ghetto" with better steel shims with great results. To test the clutch and to help fill the system, you can bypass tge low refr sensor located on the upper evap pipe just foreward of the passenger side firewall. Remove the connector in jumper it, the clutch will engage and run full time. DO NOT DO THIS FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME as the system may be very low on r134 and it won't carry the oil around to the compressor

For product, i've found wall mart 134 with a guage works just fine ( we can't buy it in canada and have to use the propane stuff...)

coodoo99 · Post by **coodoo99** » 17 Apr 2012, 22:46

Thanks for all the feedback on this one. I am thinking that I will try one refill of this system and see how long it will hold a suitable volume.

How does this planning sound:
1) Validate the Clutch is not having spacer issue. Steve850 - can you point me to the link on the Ghetto fix?
2) Use R-134a Super Seal A/C Leak Sealer by Interdyamics; follow this with a Walmart r134 can to top off the system.
3) Use the Super Seal per the manufactures recommendations.

Cheers.

Post by **jblackburn** » 17 Apr 2012, 22:51

If you hear the compressor clicking on and off every few seconds, there is no issue with the clutch. It's disengaging and engaging as commanded by the pressure switches because it's low on refrigerant.

If the AC drops out for 5 minutes once you get it going on the highway in super hot weather, THEN you have a clutch issue.

The leak sealer stuff is kinda a "your call" thing. I used it in mine though many say not to, and it held a charge for 3 years, but I think last winter it all leaked out. Not sure yet how long it'll hold a full charge this year as the car isn't really under my care anymore.

Post by **steve850** » 17 Apr 2012, 23:32

Coodoo you should be able to find a bunch of info and links within this link...

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=31130

Cheers!

S

Post by **MoVolvos** » 18 Apr 2012, 00:11

coodoo99 wrote:Thanks for all the feedback on this one. I am thinking that I will try one refill of this system and see how long it will hold a suitable volume.

How does this planning sound:
1) Validate the Clutch is not having spacer issue. Steve850 - can you point me to the link on the Ghetto fix?
2) Use R-134a Super Seal A/C Leak Sealer by Interdyamics; follow this with a Walmart r134 can to top off the system.
3) Use the Super Seal per the manufactures recommendations.

Cheers.

Start with 2 and 3. Be sure not to overfill. Follow instruction closely.

jblackburn wrote:If you hear the compressor clicking on and off every few seconds, there is no issue with the clutch. It's disengaging and engaging as commanded by the pressure switches because it's low on refrigerant.

If the AC drops out for 5 minutes once you get it going on the highway in super hot weather, THEN you have a clutch issue.

The leak sealer stuff is kinda a "your call" thing. I used it in mine though many say not to, and it held a charge for 3 years, but I think last winter it all leaked out. Not sure yet how long it'll hold a full charge this year as the car isn't really under my care anymore.

Jblackburn is correct in that do not play with the clutch at this time. The on and off is called Short Cycling. Wow, 3 years is pretty good for the Leak Sealer!!
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Air_condition ... d_be_wrong

Some basics info before you charge the system
http://www.ehow.com/way_5467187_auto-ac-procedures.html

Blessings,
BKM
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coodoo99 · Post by **coodoo99** » 18 Apr 2012, 21:32

I went by Autozone tonight and looked over their A/C repair products. I saw one the has be thinking. It was a system prep mix that prepares and R-12 system for R134-A mixes.

It sounds like re-filling with the R134-A mix is risky and could be a big problem to clean up.

Post by **jblackburn** » 18 Apr 2012, 21:37

Huh?

Any car built after 1993 uses r134.

R134 was introduced in 1992 because it's safer for the environment and R12 was completely phased out of production by 1995.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 18 Apr 2012, 21:57

coodoo99 wrote:I went by Autozone tonight and looked over their A/C repair products. I saw one the has be thinking. It was a system prep mix that prepares and R-12 system for R134-A mixes.

It sounds like re-filling with the R134-A mix is risky and could be a big problem to clean up.

Hi Coodoo99,
You may know this already but just in case. R12 and R134a are standard Refrigerants. R12a is not a refrigerant but a substitute for R12 and R134a. Please read everything in the link below but regardless you should have 134a in your system unless someone for no good reason has changed it to something else.

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2628720

Blessings,
BKM
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coodoo99 · Post by **coodoo99** » 22 Apr 2012, 23:08

Update - I picked up a 12 oz. can of R-1324a and found roughly 50lbs of pressure in the system. I added the 12oz. can of coolant and the system is running like a champ. Noting that I had pressure in the system, I am thinking the evaporator is in good shape. I also leaned that less is more with these systems; It's better to have less coolant than too much.

Thanks All!

Post by **jblackburn** » 23 Apr 2012, 05:11

Most of them will hold some pressure, but still leak. There's a very small hole somewhere.

In the meantime, just keep an ear out for the compressor cycling like crazy again. You can usually hear a click inside the car.

A/C not healthy on a 850

Re: A/C not healthy on a 850