A/C not healthy on a 850

coodoo99 · Post by **coodoo99** » 14 Apr 2012, 22:26

Hi All,

I have a '96 850 non-T with just over 100K on the ODO. When the A/C is turned on, the cooling is minimal and the engine idle starts to vary. Additionally, there's a clicking sound that comes from the passenger side of the motor. The clicking and engine RPM drop are synchronized?

I am wondering if this is a clutch, compressor or coolant issue?

What would be your steps to restore this A/C unit to a suitable production state?

Thank you.

Post by **jblackburn** » 14 Apr 2012, 22:35

The AC is low on freon. You're hearing the AC compressor click in and out

99% of these cars have/have had a bad evaporator that leaks freon. You can keep it going for a while before the leak gets so bad that you have to tear into the dash and replace the evaporator.

Buy some R-134a at an auto parts store and charge it up. The low-side service port is near the windshield washer fluid tank. Hold the idle up to 2000 RPM and load it up with freon til it holds an even 35 psi with the AC running.

I always buy the larger cans for it - when it's to the point where the AC barely works, a short can just doesn't suffice.

cambiecbc · Post by **cambiecbc** » 15 Apr 2012, 00:15

Hi,
Can RED TEK Aerosol 12a Refrigerant Can, 6 oz. be enough to charge up the A/C?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AirConditioning/AirConditioningRefrigerant/PRD~0146116P/RED+TEK+Aerosol+12a+Refrigerant+Can%2C+6+oz..jsp?locale=en

Post by **jblackburn** » 15 Apr 2012, 00:25

If yours is as low as his, you'll need at least 12 oz.

I found a supersize 19 oz can at Advance for $25. Good deal, since mine was just about empty after the winter.

Make sure to get a gauge if you get one of the cans that comes without it.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 15 Apr 2012, 00:32

If your leak is small you may try this or another brand and follow instructions
https://www.amazon.com/R-134a-Super-Seal ... B002BK7LXQ

Blessings,
BKM
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Post by **jreed** » 15 Apr 2012, 05:35

I've had good luck picking up 18oz cans of "Arctic Freeze" by interdynamics at W-mart for about $20. They also sell a kit that includes a can with a reusable gauge.

Billc1015 · Post by **Billc1015** » 15 Apr 2012, 06:04

cambiecbc wrote:Hi,
Can RED TEK Aerosol 12a Refrigerant Can, 6 oz. be enough to charge up the A/C?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AirConditioning/AirConditioningRefrigerant/PRD~0146116P/RED+TEK+Aerosol+12a+Refrigerant+Can%2C+6+oz..jsp?locale=en

Just make sure it is R134a refrigerant and not R12. They are NOT interchangable.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 15 Apr 2012, 16:20

Billc1015 wrote:
cambiecbc wrote:Hi,
Can RED TEK Aerosol 12a Refrigerant Can, 6 oz. be enough to charge up the A/C?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AirConditioning/AirConditioningRefrigerant/PRD~0146116P/RED+TEK+Aerosol+12a+Refrigerant+Can%2C+6+oz..jsp?locale=en
Just make sure it is R134a refrigerant and not R12. They are NOT interchangable.

The RedTex is a replacement (really a substitute) for the R134a and R12. Once installed the local shops can not service your vehicle as it will contaminate their equipment. The reason RedTex, Duracool and others are on the market is because it is not regulated and you do not need a MAC Certification to service (reclaim) it yourself. You may need to evacuate your system either way. Check Manufacturer recommendations to see whether you can mix 134a with 12a.

http://www.macsw.org/AM/Template.cfm?Se ... ection_609

Blesssings,
BKM
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rcannon · Post by **rcannon** » 15 Apr 2012, 20:26

I do not recommend messing with the substitutes. It's just propane with some other stuff in it. Use 134a period. I've tried switching on my Ford and the stuff practically caused the system to explode the pressure got so high for some reason. Must have been a reaction to the oil or something. I went back to 134a but my system has never been the same and I had to replace the drier.

Post by **MoVolvos** » 15 Apr 2012, 22:55

rcannon wrote:I do not recommend messing with the substitutes. It's just propane with some other stuff in it. Use 134a period. I've tried switching on my Ford and the stuff practically caused the system to explode the pressure got so high for some reason. Must have been a reaction to the oil or something. I went back to 134a but my system has never been the same and I had to replace the drier.

The rule of thumb is to change to a compatible oil if you switch refrigerants and when a system is opened or refrigerant is changed the filter dryer MUST be changed also. The comp, cond, evap, pressure hi/lo cut off switches and TX valves are design with temp and pressures for each refrigerants in mind as are the seals in the system. There is always debate on the substitutes but unless you can pull a vacuum and/or the substitute says it is compatible to mix it is not a good idea for a DYI to handle this. Adding refrigerant is actually quite different from servicing them besides the Laws associated for people not Certified.

Blessings,
BKM
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