left-handed drill bit on stripped t-stat T40...

[rspi]

Me neither, that should be all shank.

Just try to get it out with grip pliers. If it doesn't come out easy, put some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench on it.

[cn90]

Pliers are good enough to extract the stud.

Re: 2-nut technique: this is used to either insert or remove a stud:
- Example, let's say you want to insert a stud (such as Exhaust Manifold stud), then some people use 2-nut technique, in that case use the UPPER nut to tighten.
- Now if you want to remove the stud, use the BOTTOM nut of the 2-nut setup to remove the stud.

Just common sense.

[mrwillie]

No. Not really common sense, but thanks for the info.

[xHeart]

Pliers are good enough to extract the stud.

Re: 2-nut technique: this is used to either insert or remove a stud:
- Example, let's say you want to insert a stud (such as Exhaust Manifold stud), then some people use 2-nut technique, in that case use the UPPER nut to tighten.
- Now if you want to remove the stud, use the BOTTOM nut of the 2-nut setup to remove the stud.

The nut won't thread from the top.
Griping the shank is difficult at this location.
I will start with soaking it overnight.
I may sand the shank's thread flat, making two sides for a plier/wrench to grip.
If all fails, easy-out method, what do you think?

[Ozark Lee]

I will start with soaking it overnight.

I fought with the bolt on my sons 850 for the better part of a day - I even brazed another bolt to the stud after I drilled the head off. The whole time I was spraying it with PB Blaster.

I got up the next morning to start fighting the battle all over again and it came out with my fingers. PB Blaster soaking overnight will do wonders.

...Lee

[cn90]

For those reading this thread, my recommendation is in order to prevent this (rounding off the head of the bolt):

1. Use a tiny screwdriver to clean the inside of the Torx recess of the bolt. This allows the Torx key to be fully inserted inside the head for good purchase.
This is just generic info: any time you deal with Torx or Allen bolts, clean the recess part of the bolts first!

2. Apply Antiseize on the bolts, 7 years/70K miles later, you will thank yourself!

3. Use the long Torx key. This will give you a straight shot at it.
Use a Torx key that is still good (good edges etc.), a worn-out Torx key will round the head!
I use an 8-mm socket/ratchet for added leverage:

[xHeart]

PB Blaster and sanding thread flat for a better grip is my hope at this time.

Sanding shank thread flat for grip...

MVS_0241.jpg (471.84 KiB) Viewed 1530 times

[JimBee]

If the threads are clean enough get a couple of nuts on the shank and tighten them together. That gives you a "hex head" on the bolt shank. Then like Lee said, hit it with PB Blaster to soak overnight. It will come out (mine wasn't finger tight, but it did come out, if hard all the way).

[xHeart]

If the threads are clean enough get a couple of nuts on the shank and tighten them together. That gives you a "hex head" on the bolt shank. Then like Lee said, hit it with PB Blaster to soak overnight. It will come out (mine wasn't finger tight, but it did come out, if hard all the way).

The nut is not agreeing, it would not thread from the top of the shank. I have tried both clockwise and counter. Scratching head!

[cn90]

Did you try with a Vise-Grip?

Another thought, a Propane Torch ($10 at hardware store, same stuff Plumbers use to solder copper piping) may help you.
Just heat the area round the broken stud: don't heat the stud but heat the area around it.
I'd say heat for about 30 sec, this should loosen any rust.