ETS light with a one year old Xemodex module

[precopster]

Wow I haven't used an analogue meter in 25 years!!

The charging system should be between 13.5 V and 14.3 V with engine running when under no load. For example no headlights, heater, a/c or demisters running.

I don't think it would start with only 10V at the battery.

Perhaps XeModex should have R2D2 handling calls for them

The only way to diagnose a P2 Volvo ACCURATELY is with Vida-Dice or a scanner that can give you live readings. MAF flow should be around 14.5kg/hr when idling.

[zinman]

Pulled battery, had battery tested on a real meter--works fine, with voltage where your numbers were. Cleaned terminals with wire brush including branch to fuse/ relay box. Found ground wire, (or what matched the description near oil pressure switch) backed out bolt, wire brushed engine block and connector, then tightened bolt.
Still rough idle and ETS (only) light. I'm very close to buying a newer used car. The cost of maintenance has been two to three thousand dollars a year for the last couple years with me doing the labor. As much satisfaction as I get out of fixing it and learning about the car, it may be time... I suppose it is worth paying the cost to have a new throttle body sent. I'd have to take out the fan, etc. just to unplug and plug back in the ETM as my Xemodex friend suggested I try. Might as well try a new one for the trouble. Then I'll feel better about shopping for another vehicle if it doesn't work.

[precopster]

WOW where do you buy your parts from? My spend on our 850 was only around $1,500 for 3.5 yrs and my 2000 V70 even with refurbished ETM ($140 new sensor) cost me about $2,000 in parts and I have new front suspension, radiator, heater core, evaporator., a/c compressor and tires over 1.5 yrs.

I wouldn't spend another cent without scanning the car properly because of the labour AND cost of buying another.

BPS or APS can be faulty giving the same symptoms.

The brake switch is a $110 part ( it can also be repaired as there's a write-up I used afew months ago for this)

The accel sensor's terminal/plug can have corrosion. It's attached to the throttle pedal. Unplug it and inspect/clean.

[zinman]

You called me on repairs. I'm being dramatic. Only last year did I take ownership of all repairs and I did a lot for $2K. Before that money flowed to my mechanic in no less than $300 increments. That adds up fast and leaves a sour taste. Overall I've been lucky both with mostly correct diagnostics and successful repairs for my own labors. The second tech at Xemodex agreed that a new ETM should be sent and said two things he has seen cause early demise: voltage drops that lead to overheating of sensors and PCV systems blowing foul materials into the throttle. Since the customer service was so good (they even sent it overnight) and I'm sure I need to change out the PCV I'm going to do them both at the same time. I'll post an update when the job is done. Thanks.

[precopster]

When the throttle bore is dirty and I mean very dirty it affects the tolerance of the flap as it attempts to scrape past the debris.

This increases the current draw of the flap motor and eventually results in failing components on the circuit board.

Also the armatures that I've seen (especially early '00-01 builds) expand resulting in direct contact with the magnet. This results in huge voltage drop and current spikes. I'm quite certain XeModex would address this when reconditioning but it could happen again even after the clearances have been machined on the aluminium magnet sheathing.

Magnetti's design leaves me wondering if they thought this one through at all.

[zinman]

I'm in the process at the moment. Took the old throttle body off. It looks very clean. No crud whatsoever. Perhaps the unit is just fine. I won't know now until I install the new unit, which did not arrive today. Will do PCV job tomorrow. I'm stuck on trying to remove the injectors from the intake manifold still attached to fuel rail. Are you supposed to just pull them out together? It seems like it will take a lot of force. After that, I think it will get easier.

[precopster]

There's a thin metal flat bar attached to the rail with a torx screw from underneath. Remove the torx screw and the injectors will release.

[zinman]

Release from the rail or from the manifold? Is it fine to leave them in the manifold?

[precopster]

If you're intending no to clean them it's OK. They just pull straight up and out. It is actually 3 torx screws underneath which also helps release the fuel line.

[zinman]

Got them out but lost an o ring on one. Still have the plastic end piece though. Can't find it anywhere.
Also lost a T25 socket and it is hung up somewhere I can't see. Now trying to uncouple the fuel line from the fuel rail. Looks like the water pump is in the way of the bottom manifold bolt, too.