1998 V70 Needs to be jump started

[Herb Goltz]

Get the battery load tested (AutoZone?)-- you might have the voltage, but not the amps. With the car running at idle, first measure the voltage at the battery posts. Measure the voltage output of the alternator at the big red wire on the back. Measure the voltage drops for both positive and negative cables (and the B+ cable as well). The cables are suspect-- they break down internally and the resistance goes way up-- the only external manifestation is unusual heat after running for a while. Report back with your measurements.

Good luck!

[abscate]

To rule out the ignition switch, there is a starter wire on some models that runs up from the solenoid where you can apply 12VDC to initiate the starter.

With a manual transmission - you have to be CAREFUL with this function - it overrides the clutch switch.

[5rivers]

Thanks for replying!
I will take measurements this morning, as well as recheck the battery cables, and post results here.
My V70 has a manual transmission.

[abscate]

We will send you your honorary membership in the "sneer at the slush drive" club

[5rivers]

Ok, finally got a few measurements!! Had to wait for some help!
Between the battery's negative terminal post and the starter motor casing, voltage = .13

Between the battery's negative terminal post and the S terminal on starter solenoid, voltage = .13

Between the battery's positive terminal post and the stud for the positive cable connection on solenoid, voltage = 0.00

Yesterday,
the readings for the connection between the S terminal on the solenoid and the starter motor casing, voltage = 3.28 was highest, then numbers went down;

between the battery's positive terminal post and the stud for the positive cable connection on solenoid, voltage = 3.30

Based on my understanding of these readings, either there is a problem with the positive cable between the battery and starter solenoid, or the ground from the battery. I will check on both, but would appreciate your input on what else these readings might reflect, or if I need to run another set of tests. Thanks in advance for your reply (replies)!

[5rivers]

I forgot to include the battery voltage readings = 13.27

[5rivers]

Here's an update:
I extracted the positive cable from its wiring harness from the battery to the starter solenoid. I did not see any cracks in the rubber cover anywhere. Although, there were a few bends in the cable that I straightened out and could hear the sound of wire meshing together (maybe breaking inside the rubber cover??). I cleaned, again, all the wire/cable connection points to the solenoid.
I unbolted the negative ground cable and wire-brushed the contact points and re-bolted it to the motor.
Then re-connected the battery cables. When I turned the ignition switch to start the car, I could hear clicking sounds from the starter, but the car would not start. Voltage at the battery was 13.27.
When I connected the electric battery starter/jumper and turned it to boost, and waited a few minutes, only then did the car start.
I am inclined to have the battery rechecked again for amperage, as it clearly has enough voltage; and possibly replace the positive and negative cables that attach to the battery.
Any other recommendations would be appreciated.

[abscate]

It's a load test that you need to run, but if you can feel the wires moving in the cables, I would just replace. Those wires carry 100 Amps+ of current

[rspi]

[5rivers]

Excellent video!
The measurements above were taken after I had my niece turn the key to position III, and then had my great nephew turn on the voltmeter.