'98 V70R AWD with high mileage should I plunge?

[Klausc]

The 'bounce test' for Nivomats is different. First, measure the top of the rear bumper to the ground. Load about 100 Kilos in the rear and measure again if you like. Then either drive around the block or bounce the rear of the car up and down a dozen times. If the Nivomats are good, the rear will now be almost level and the first measurement will be close to the last measurement.

As for the front struts, they are probably original. Don't bother bouncing. If the front of the car nosedives under braking, you need new struts. An "R" never dips at a stop sign. And due to the lowered springs, regular V70 struts will not work. I bought a pair of Koni Sports so that I could adjust them as needed.

[precopster]

Thanks Klausc willl perform that test and see if they pass.

[erikv11]

FYI, converting to non-Nivos requires no welding and only one additional part per side (the upper shock mount, about $10 each) plus everything you would replace anyway in a shock change. I did some browsing, it is done more and more these days. Most people use stock springs but here is a recent write-up recommending some other springs (but ignore the link out to the page where they use spring compressors on rear springs, arrgghh!):

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/16 ... r-end-855/

EDIT:
Well it seems the AWD Nivomat setup is different from the FWD I just posted about, in that you will also need to swap out the lower shock mount. Still no welding, it twists out and the other one twists in, but another part to consider. I learned this because it (also) just came up on another forum:

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/16 ... er-mounts/

[precopster]

They gave me a nice tight turbo with no axial play

Car has all new genuine water hoses including turbo lines. Also leads are dated 2009 and cap is new. I'm going to replace the banjo bolt copper washers as well. Brakes including all discs are new!!

Ordered a genuine PCV set (PCV box and main lines but left out clamps), timing gear and head gasket set. There are 14 valves that are straight lying in a foam box; the bent ones were turfed. Reason for belt breakage is a near-seized idler pulley and tensioner pulley.

This is going forward on a very tight budget. So far am $350 into this. Have 20 stem seals and all cam seals still in packaging from a previous job. Also found a near new GMB water pump I found on eBay afew years ago.

[rspi]

If you are on a budget, have you seen the head rebuild videos?

[precopster]

Thanks Robert I'll be using those as my bible when it comes to this job. The head was removed and cleaned up/bead blasted. I should have rolled it over to see if it had been surfaced. I'll pop in tomorrow to check that out.
FCP confirmed the gasket and PCV order is on its way via UPS.
Some Amazon timing parts already on their way via DHL:

URO 9135036 timing belt tensioner pulley.

URO 8630590 idler pulley

Bando timing belt

[precopster]

The Amazon priority shipping is awesome: 3 days from USA!!
Something awfully familiar about a Bando timing belt. Is that a Continental rebadged?



Idler pulley has a French bearing (last time i ordered one of these a month ago it was an NTN) and the tensioner pulley has a Japanese NSK

[precopster]

Does anyone know what the order of re assembly is on a turbo engine?

Do I fit the head with the exhaust manifold bolted on then try and fit the turbo or can I squeeze head, manifold and turbo in one go??

[rspi]

Lol, what happened to the Bible?

You can do it either way. I usually install the head alone, it is much lighter that way and you can do it alone.

[rspi]