1998 Volvo S70 Coolant soaked on drivers side floor

Post by **E Showell** » 03 Apr 2015, 03:28

No sure the timing is suspicious at all. If the radiator end tank was cracked, then the crack was likely relieving some internal pressure (it is after all a pressurized system). Once the radiator was replaced, the new radiator, lacking the crack of the old one, would likely bring the system up to, or at least closer to, full pressure. Thereafter, any already weakened component in the system would have become more stressed and susceptible to failure given the "additional" pressure.

Post by **erikv11** » 03 Apr 2015, 08:43

Yes, that is why the timing is suspicious. If the reservoir cap or water pump starts leaking next then we're looking at a "fool me once, fool me twice ..." situation.

Post by **dosbricks** » 03 Apr 2015, 08:59

It would seem prudent to pull the heater hoses from the firewall and clamp them together with a piece of hose to do a bypass as Mike suggested. Then do the combustion-gas-in-coolant test before proceeding with the heater core and carpet cleanup.

Post by **98v70dad** » 03 Apr 2015, 16:52

I know that you are focused on the heater core right now, but I had this happen to me also and getting the carpet and mat underneath clean was a major issue once the core was replaced. I'll tell you what I did and it may be helpful to you. I removed the carpet and dealt with that outside the car. If I remember right, I pressured washed it on the driveway and let it dry. The mat below the carpet was a bit more involved. I picked a few places to cut the mat that could easily be spliced back together and used a utility knife to cut the mat and then removed it. Be careful because there are wires along the edges (I think...it was 4 years ago. Remove the coolant soaked mat and save it for a template. You'll have to go to a junkyard to find a replacement. Cut it bigger than the piece you need and you can trim it to fit. I honestly don't think the coolant soaked mat is salvageable but maybe someone has a better idea. My floor pan area literally had an inch of coolant pooled it.

Take a bucket and sponge and sponge out the coolant in the floor pan. Eventually you'll get to the point that you can use soap and water and finally rinse with the sponge and plain water and then let the floor pan area dry overnight.

Make your replacement piece and trim it to final fit. i taped the cut lines together with heavy aluminum hvac tape.. several layers. On top of this I placed the "rubber" threshold sealing material they sell at home depot and lowes to place under new doors. It comes in rolls and is adhesive backed and it worked great.

Put your carpet back in. Now your car will smell like coolant unless you do something. Here's what I did and it worked. Buy a big aluminum disposable pan at the grocery store, 5 pounds of charcoal and a large box of baking soda. Dump the charcoal in the pan and put the pan in the back seat. Dust the carpet with the baking soda a leave it for a while. Vacuum out the baking soda and remove the charcoal when the smell disappears. Repeat baking soda and charcoal as needed.

There may be a better way to do this but its what i did and I haven't had any problem with it in the 4 years since.

Post by **rspi** » 03 Apr 2015, 19:10

roscoerich · Post by **roscoerich** » 07 Apr 2015, 13:51

Thanks for all the replies, the saga continues.... Yes my radiator cap on reservoir has become compromised creating the head gasket panic! Just curious how long should I have bleed the system to ensure to get all the air out of the cooling system with new coolant. Could this have caused the radiator cap to go with too much air in the system. Any suggestions on the proper way to ensure all the air is out. I have also got the combustion gas leak detector from autozone that I will try to use when the beast cools down.

Post by **abscate** » 07 Apr 2015, 14:13

These engines bleed coolant systems quickly. Just fill the reservoir, drive for 5 minutes, check, top off, repeat. Of course, check your low coolant light sensor and circuit and pull over immediately if it flashes.

Once the level stabilizes, you are done.

roscoerich · Post by **roscoerich** » 09 Apr 2015, 18:42

Well, I've changed out the thermostat, the radiator, heater core, the cap (which has failed twice), done the combustion gas test twice (both negative). Car is still overheating and pushing coolant out of the expansion tank. Any ideas of what to do next? I'm about to give up.....

roscoerich · Post by **roscoerich** » 09 Apr 2015, 18:44

Well, I've changed out the thermostat, the radiator, heater core, the cap (which has failed twice), done the combustion gas test twice (both negative). Car is still overheating and pushing coolant out of the expansion tank. Any ideas of what to do next? I'm about to give up.....

THAI UNG · Post by **THAI UNG** » 10 Apr 2015, 07:30

To Roscoerich: I believed your water pump is bad,did you changed the water pump on that car your self? If yes,what kind of the impellers made of:metal or plastic? If plastic,I think all the impellers are broken.
Approx.over a year ago it happened to me too,same problem like your .My water pump (S80 that I installed couple year earlier with plastic impellers) all are broken due to water pump bearing busted.Almost ruin my engine.Now I use Aisin pump.
If your timing belt due for replacement,get it done while you at it,plus belt tensioner pully and idler bearing too.Good luck...