95 850 No Cooling Fan

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 20 Jun 2015, 15:18

Ozark Lee wrote:
I won't try to tell you colors so as to not frustrate you.

Haha, thanks.

I grounded each pin individually in the middle of the relay and only get clicking. I'll try testing the fan itself.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 20 Jun 2015, 15:26

One other thing to check is the ground from the fan motor. I can see that its connector is plugged in on the fan shroud but I can't remember where the ground connection is actually made, to the chassis or to the block. I think it is bolted to the block.

...Lee

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 20 Jun 2015, 15:36

I ran a wire from one of the pins for the fan connector to the positive terminal on the battery and ran a second wire from the single wire black connector on the shroud to ground on the battery and the fan turned on. This suggests the fan is good, correct?

Its funny you mention the ground. Near the bottom of the dip stick tube (where it goes into the block) I noticed a ground strap that I think is not bolted to anything at the moment.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 20 Jun 2015, 16:12

The fan sounds like it is good. Ground the loose strap and see if things change.

...Lee

Post by **abscate** » 20 Jun 2015, 17:04

That starter post bolt looks totally loose to me

Post by **tryingbe** » 20 Jun 2015, 17:33

The circled connector should have constant 12V (key off/on doesn't matter) and it should get power the circled starter contact.

I would suggest you remove the fan to give yourself more space to work with and find the wire and reconnect it to the starter. If the wire is connected, there is a broken connection, find it and fix it. Use at least a gauge 10 wire.

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 20 Jun 2015, 18:17

I attached the ground wire and the fan turns on now. Although now it seems like it runs longer than it should. I can never win with this car.

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 20 Jun 2015, 18:54

abscate wrote:That starter post bolt looks totally loose to me

For those two pictures it was totally loose. I wanted to illustrate that all 3 wires were on the post itself. If you look at the original picture you can see the bolt is tightened down there and once I took the other two pictures I tightened it again.

EDIT: When I pulled the codes after my initial drive after the M56 swap one of them was for a missing ECT signal. I fiddled with the connector and sprayed contact cleaner in it to see if maybe corrosion was the problem. If that signal is still missing could it keep the cooling fan on longer than normal?

Post by **abscate** » 21 Jun 2015, 08:37

Absolutely. the ECU uses the engine temp to trigger fan operation - without the right input it may well default to putting the fan on full to save the engine.

Caveat - Im not an expert on the earlier ECU systems (or the later ones for that matter) but I believe the ECU controls this like my ME7 (1999)

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 22 Jun 2015, 17:41

Ok. I'll look into the ECT sensor and try to figure out what's going on there. Thanks for the help, gentleman.