2001 XC 2.4T PCV fiasco

[Moneypitowner]

I have to admit, I'd not have done this job if any of the write ups or videos had mentioned draining engine of coolant or all that crap. If I sound irate, well I am. I hope you don't mind if I vent. I honestly would've let the pos sit in the driveway if I had known. I barely have the moolah to put food on the table much less buy a s*** ton of replacement parts and coolant. I had planned on cleaning the PCV system as best I could and if that didn't stop my engine from leaking about 7 or 8 quarts w/in 3k mi maybe some autorx to keep me going till tax time rolls around.

I DID have to pull the power steering hardline from the pump in order to get the IM out. It sits over top of the front side of the IM, which if I need to pull forward anymore in order to facilitate its removal would get in the way. I stuck half a styrofoam cup over one side of the alt. Under the PS pump and a rag right under the connection to absorb. A rag is over the other side where loosening the left-most PCV tube let a little bit of coolant out.
Now the entire job is held up by the banjo bolt. WILL NOT BUDGE! I shot a tiny bit of aerokroil on it as best I could, trying not to get any on the alt. (Which by the way may have a few spots of coolant and PS fluid on it, not big, but probably enough to piss of the car gods and empty my wallet some more )
I've fixed all my vehicles for the past 16 yrs (all where gm except one vw, now that I think about it) I know my way around pretty well but this Volvo is royally kicking my ass! I'd like to punch the engineers in the junk a few good times (maybe cause I'm a machinist? No... Bad design too ). Volvo had to have known the pcv crap was a recurring issue, that requires maintenance in pretty steady intervals, and what did they do, but make it even harder to get to than in previous versions.
I'm about done venting. Thanks you for listening and for your help so far. I'll most likely post a bunch of pics upon reassembly for other folks out there like me, so they won't be blindsided. It would only be redemptive if others could be helped by my experiences.

[precopster]

I usually pull the ps pump out because getting that 17mm bolt both out and back in requires some room. That 17mm bolt whose threads are facing skyward is the only thing stopping removal. It has copper washers on either side so it's not actually that tight.

A pic of the engine I fitted last week to my T5....new everything

[sparky65]

Since you will have the IM out for this, it's a great time to clean up your ETM and replace the gasket. Quick add on job that is way better done while you have access.

[abscate]

The PS pump is a cinch to remove, and it doesn't require removing the lines. It bolts through the pulley.

Remove the serpentine belt (remove tension on the idler, slip belt off)
Unbolt the PS mount bolts, working through the holes in the PS pump pulley.

Now you can ease the PS pump up and to the left giving access to both the banjo bolt and the IM.

It might be easier to crack the banjo bolt with the IM attached with a couple of bolts so that you can put pure torque on it. Loose pieces are harder to work.

[abscate]

Reinstall note - it is a lot easier to replace the banjo before installing the IM. The other way to approach it is to install the PVC pipe except for the connection to the box, install IM, then make connection to box afterwards. This is harder though - and you have to expand the PVC fitting with a socket to get it to slip over the box fitting.

[Moneypitowner]

Update:
Waiting on new oil trap since the nipple on top broke off when removing hose. I believe it was the one that goes back to the IM.
Cleaned all hoses, except the one going back around to the firewall side of the engine compartment, which wasn't really dirty say all anyway. I mean really cleaned stuff out, cleaned the banjo bolt that attaches to the bottom of the IM with pipe cleaner, clean as a whistle, cleaned all the hoses out with aerokroil and actually dragged a shop rag through the hoses. The only hose I'm leary about is the tiny one from the top of the oil trap to the banjo bolt connection under the IM, which was a very small hose encased inside a foamy larger hose, this one actually broke off at the rubber connection and I pulled the broken bits out of the connection and hopefully it'll seal up fine upon reconnection without being too short. The main gunk and sludge was in the lower passage back to the oil pan I believe. At that point I took a small flexible hose and got it down to I believe where the 180 is in the oil pan? I blew thru it to listen for bubbling in the oil pan. I MIGHT have heard it once or twice. I'm hoping to pour some sea foam down there and try and loosen that junk. Is there actually a screen down there? I'll get everything put back and try a cleaning in it, maybe marvel mystery?
I have a friend who used to work for Volvo doing repairs ! Wish I'd known sooner, but he says he has a clean out process they used to use. I'll lean on his guidance pretty heavily throughout the "rehab" process .
I'll post updates soon.
Many thanks to you guys so far

[scot850]

Sounds like major progress, and lucky you have found an experienced ear to bend.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Neil.

[precopster]

Great progress!! The broken small PVC pipe can be replaced with an early S80T6 part which is about $40 as opposed to the whole XC70 part which is hundreds. I broke mine on my 2001 XC70 and found the part at Tasca Parts.

You can use 3/8 inch heater hose for the banjo bolt connections in case you snap those or just feel like being thorough.

[Moneypitowner]

Any tips on getting the worthless banjo bolt back ON the bottom of the IM?!!! Bolt will just sit in hole, will not start, the actual bent tube that surrounds it keeps it from sitting at juuuusst the right angle (and apparently star alignment) to start the threads. Spent about 5 hrs working on it tonight, about 3 trying to get the bolt in. I hate this car. I just need to get it running so I can sell it. Any ideas?

[precopster]

Is the manifold bolted in or loose? Loose works as you can tilt it to match the thread angle as it's not exactly vertical.

I spent about 2 hours cursing at it 2 weeks ago, then went inside and got a snack to help nourish my aching arms and within 5 minutes of returning I had it on. DO try to thread the bolt on without the boomerang fitting just to reassure yourself that there are no crossthreads.

I had power steering pump removed for more hand room and one of the coolant lines to the boomerang fitting disconnected at the thermostat housing to allow more flexibility.