Removing stubborn ABS module bolt

[sleddriver]

I'm going to throw this out there as I have not done this myself.

What about grinding the head off the stubborn bolt, sliding the ABS module off and then having more access to the remaining bolt shaft to get a grip with vice-grips to loosen and turn it out. You said you have spare bolts.

Neil.

That's what I did. Used a carbide cutter in a Moto-Tool to grind the head off, slid the module off, then vice-grips to remove the stuck shaft. RPITA. I bought new bolts with hex socket heads & used anti-seize.

[VolvoS70Driver]

Thanks for the input, the 4mm hex slips right over it so I guess it's dremel time. I am not aware of a reverse torx smaller than the E6 size. It was a craftsman and I even ground off the leading chamfer so that I could get more grooved area on the head.

Just so awkward trying to grind something using a mirror to see it. Tried making a screwdriver slot first but it was near impossible to get the slot centered having to use a mirror and flashlight and pretty much as expected, one side just mushed over when I tried to turn it. So continued to cut away with dremel and unfortunately did get into the case a little bit and also the metal sleeve but I think there is enough there to re-use it.

Remainder of screw came out easily of course once module was removed. Do plan on using hex or socket cap screws to re-install. With a little anti-seize to boot.

Thanks again....

Just happened to see a link to this as I was posting. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=60808 Gives the part numbers for 316 SS bolt and lock washer from McMaster Carr. The company that has just about everything. At sub $10 plus shipping of around $5 as a minimum for such a small volume, certainly worth it.

[erikv11]

Nice surgery, doc!

Stainless is nice insurance but the reality is you will never go back in there, the solder repair work from Midwest-abs is better than the original.

[cn90]

Exact same issue for me, three (3) out of four (4) E5 bolts came off, but the last bolt, bottom near the firewall was stripped. I have tried both E5 and 5/32″ sockets to no avail. I was about to give up, or to try dremel tool (a PITA due to awkward angle).

I looked at the bolt head, believe it or not the Torx area is tapered with the outer part of the head being E5 but the inner part near the “washer” portion is E6. Out of desperation, I tried E6 socket and it worked!!!

[VolvoS70Driver]

Nice surgery, doc!

Stainless is nice insurance but the reality is you will never go back in there, the solder repair work from Midwest-abs is better than the original.

Yea, I was wondering why they wouldn't renew my malpractice insurance

Indeed, while I thought originally to do the rework myself, I decided for the money, I would let Matt do it so I could spend my time re-assembling the PCV system, installing new cam seals and other misc stuff. Wanting to get 250k out of her but at only 197 now, not sure I'll make it. (The car probably will, I just don't know if I will after doing all the little repairs every 10 to 15k)

[abscate]

Bump for my fellow S70 in Delmar

[FireFox31]

To remove my stuck ABS module bolt, I ground it down with a Dremel 9903 Tungsten Carbide Carving Bit with domed head. It was impossible to hold the Dremel perpendicular to the bolt, so the domed head of the 9903 helped grab on to the bolt at the odd angle. Be sure to use a sharp blade or you'll waste time. Run the bit at about 75% power (20k rpm?) for both control (won't buck around) and cutting ability.

The only way I saw to do this job was dangerous: Lower the powered-off Dremel under the module with one hand, reach way in and turn it on with the other, then carefully reach that hand back out to hold the mirror so I could see. If I dropped the Dremel, it would be difficult to turn off, cutting through everything around until I did. I wore a thick work glove on the hand holding the Dremel for protection. Took about three hours to carefully grind away the bolt (including wasted time using dull bits). Despite my caution, I still damaged the case a little. I hope Midwest ABS is understanding (and has replacements for those metal cylinders).

[BaronVonAnt]

Thank you for the specifics.
I’ve got to do this on two of the ABS bolts, unfortunately - and though I still dread it, your description makes the goal a bit clearer.

To remove my stuck ABS module bolt, I ground it down with a Dremel 9903 Tungsten Carbide Carving Bit with domed head. It was impossible to hold the Dremel perpendicular to the bolt, so the domed head of the 9903 helped grab on to the bolt at the odd angle. Be sure to use a sharp blade or you'll waste time. Run the bit at about 75% power (20k rpm?) for both control (won't buck around) and cutting ability.

The only way I saw to do this job was dangerous:

[abscate]

It’s a horrible thought but one could disconnect all the hydraulics and remove the silver module and black modules together to get to these if it’s that nasty

[ZionXIX]

It’s a horrible thought but one could disconnect all the hydraulics and remove the silver module and black modules together to get to these if it’s that nasty

That is such a horrible thought. Add an afternoon of brake bleeding to the mix.