Removing stubborn ABS module bolt

VolvoS70Driver · Post by **VolvoS70Driver** » 06 Mar 2016, 13:04

I did some searching but couldn't find a thread specific to this but I got all the turbo hoses and vac lines and such pulled out to replace some PCV parts and put in new rear cam seals. While I have it down this far I am thinking I will try again to get the defective ABS module out to rework the solder joints as it has been bad since I bought the car. Last time I got three bolts out and the bottom rear bolt decided it wasn't time for it to leave the nest and I ended up with some type of custom shaped bolt head.

The little torx socket still fits over it but there is not enough bite to make anything happen. Really, just trying to get some suggestions for getting that bolt out (I got extras from an old module to replace the bad one so no big deal if I destroy it). Limited room under the car as I had to work this repair outside due to an overcrowded situation in the shop so will be a challenge if I have to access it from the bottom side.

Any suggestions would be very appreciated.

Post by **cuhfs** » 06 Mar 2016, 19:15

Buy the best quality tool you can find. maybe a new high quality tool will bite just enough better to get it loose versus a tool that is used, cheaper built, or worn one. other than that, Mini dremmel? part is shot anyway. May void a core exchange though.

Post by **Matty Moo** » 06 Mar 2016, 19:31

Dremel with a grinding bit.

I have $2 sockets and $12 e5 sockets, when those bolts bond to the sleeves on the module and the heads are corroded it's game over. It wouldn't hurt to try a 4mm but once they get to that point it is what it is.

When I swap out a module and hear that "snap" noise when the bolt breaks free it's like some sort of gift from God. I hate life when they strip out.

Post by **gmh** » 06 Mar 2016, 19:36

Something like this might work, the 3/16 size is less than 5mm.

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Power-Grip- ... 1KTNZBC380

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 06 Mar 2016, 21:05

I recall doing this years ago. I got a set of the reverse torx at Napa. Until I got the right bit it wasn't happening.

Post by **abscate** » 07 Mar 2016, 04:38

Sometimes you can drop down a size on a heavily corroded washer and work it on to the fastener, remove clean, and repeat 8 times until you get a good amount of tool onto it.

I removed one of mine on my 1999 with a sharp needle nose vice grip (TM) when it was corroded. The (TM) is important there, don't use a POS tool here.

Post by **combatkarl** » 07 Mar 2016, 09:43

I had the same issue when removing a ABS module from a vehicle at a salvage yard. I ended up removing the hard-brake lines and the mounting bracket attached to the inner fender.

Post by **scot850** » 07 Mar 2016, 11:03

I'm going to throw this out there as I have not done this myself.

What about grinding the head off the stubborn bolt, sliding the ABS module off and then having more access to the remaining bolt shaft to get a grip with vice-grips to loosen and turn it out. You said you have spare bolts.

Neil.

Post by **erikv11** » 07 Mar 2016, 11:20

Neil, that's exactly what MattyMoo is suggesting, you are on the mark.

I've done it once, it is not too bad of a job, depending on which bolt it is. The one in the back is really tough to see while you are grinding, I used a mirror and still butchered the case a bit. Others have done better and not hit the case much at all. But anyway you must use a Dremel type tool to grind off the head, given the tight access.

About the spare bolts: any time I remove an ABS module, it goes back in with new, hex head bolts.

Post by **abscate** » 07 Mar 2016, 11:39

we actually had a thread with the source for the bolts here recently...probably a smart thing to use SS bolts