96 R ABS module - again
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Matty Moo
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Re: 96 R ABS module - again
No. You never soldered the other pins on the board and they crack too. Usually they will start before the two pins feeding the pump.

http://www.midwest-abs.com
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- sleddriver
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Years (decade+?) ago when I did this the first time, I examined all solder joints tied to the external connector pins with a very bright light & high-mag. goggles. Found numerous cracked solder joints. Found the same on my Dolby Pro-logic module, straight from the factory defective. I fixed it rather than return it!
Look at the solder joints from various angles to ensure there are no tiny dark lines (rings). Rather than just reheat the joint, remove all solder, check both hole & pad, and redo it with a hot, well-tinned iron.
I managed to fix the others, but the two motor pins...actually that ONE motor pin...on the left...was a stubborn hold out. Not any more. The ABS light has remained off ever since......thank God!
Look at the solder joints from various angles to ensure there are no tiny dark lines (rings). Rather than just reheat the joint, remove all solder, check both hole & pad, and redo it with a hot, well-tinned iron.
I managed to fix the others, but the two motor pins...actually that ONE motor pin...on the left...was a stubborn hold out. Not any more. The ABS light has remained off ever since......thank God!
1998 V70 T5 226,808 miles. Original Owner.
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- Clemens
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So, as per matty moo's advice, i resoldered all the other joints as well. And the lights are gone. What remains though is an occasional rubbing sound and feel from the rear left brake. I put 4 new ate rotors and 8 new pads on the car like 3 months ago. So now that the abs module can be crossed of the possible culprit list, what could cause this pulsating rubbing? The pad/rotor mismatching (unlikely cuz both oem), a partially stuck caliper, the abs hydrualic block? Any advice qould be appreciated. Thanks
Summer: 1996 855 R
Winter: 1994 855 T5M
Donor: 1995 854 10V
Winter: 1994 855 T5M
Donor: 1995 854 10V
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Ozark Lee
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I had one of the rear pads get stuck on the caliper. I just pulled it all apart and used a wire brush attachment on a Dremel tool to clean all of the rust off and never had any more problems.Clemens wrote:what could cause this pulsating rubbing? The pad/rotor mismatching (unlikely cuz both oem), a partially stuck caliper, the abs hydraulic block? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
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scot850
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Rear calipers tend to get sticky over the years as they work less hard. Lee has made an excellent suggestion of cleaning all the contact faces to ensure the pads can move smoothly without binding. Have someone gently press the brake peddle with the pads removed (one caliper at a time disassembled) to make sure the piston is moving smoothly. Check there are no cracks in the piston boots and they are not rusty.
Have you done any service work on the rear parking brakes? These are not a fit and forget item most folk think they are. Pull the rear rotors and check the shoes have not delaminated and again have someone gently pull on the lever and check the cables move easily and are not binding.
Have you ever replaced the flexible brake hoses? Again these can collapse internally and prevent the calipers releasing as they should.
Good luck!
Neil.
Have you done any service work on the rear parking brakes? These are not a fit and forget item most folk think they are. Pull the rear rotors and check the shoes have not delaminated and again have someone gently pull on the lever and check the cables move easily and are not binding.
Have you ever replaced the flexible brake hoses? Again these can collapse internally and prevent the calipers releasing as they should.
Good luck!
Neil.
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- Clemens
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So last night i took the left rear brake apart. The parking brake assembly looks good (i adjuated them a whe ago, but better safe than sorry) but the inner piston was stuck so i got it moving again. Since i didn't take the caliper off the car i couldn't really rebuild it, i just broke it loose by locking the outer piston and then pumped the pedal a few times. Might be a temporary fix only. Now the left side seems to work alright again, but i will also di the right reat one as the rubbing still can be felt. Interesting input about the rubber line collapsing. I just had the front ones replaced but will do the rear ones soon as well.
Summer: 1996 855 R
Winter: 1994 855 T5M
Donor: 1995 854 10V
Winter: 1994 855 T5M
Donor: 1995 854 10V
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jking4020
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I also have abs issues. Checked circuit board and was fine. I still installed a replacement abs unit but no change. Speedo will go out any time. Front brakes hum on long stops. And I have to hit my horn to get shifter to move and most electronics to work. Back brakes barley seem to work if at all. It's a 97 850 turbo.
- BEJinFbk
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Sounds suspiciously like a bad ignition switch.jking4020 wrote:I also have abs issues. Checked circuit board and was fine. I still installed a replacement abs unit but no change. Speedo will go out any time. Front brakes hum on long stops. And I have to hit my horn to get shifter to move and most electronics to work. Back brakes barley seem to work if at all. It's a 97 850 turbo.
The contacts wear out and all kinds of things happens.
It's a really simple swap, though. Budget about 50 bucks
and stick with OEM for the new electrical contact block.
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... 
- abscate
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Yeah, that's going to lock up on you again. It might help to flush your brake fluid out and put in fresh, which you should do every two years anyhow, but the corrosion damage is probably already done.Clemens wrote:So last night i took the left rear brake apart. The parking brake assembly looks good (i adjuated them a whe ago, but better safe than sorry) but the inner piston was stuck so i got it moving again. Since i didn't take the caliper off the car i couldn't really rebuild it, i just broke it loose by locking the outer piston and then pumped the pedal a few times. Might be a temporary fix only. Now the left side seems to work alright again, but i will also di the right reat one as the rubbing still can be felt. Interesting input about the rubber line collapsing. I just had the front ones replaced but will do the rear ones soon as well.
The rear calipers on my 1999 are non-floating type ( caliper stays still, two Pistons move) which last longer but have to be replaced when they freeze. I found the FCP Cardone after markets to be rebuilt OEM ATE calipers at 1/4 the price.
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1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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