98 S70, air conditioner not working :(

[theWIFES_S70]

Lee, should I do something like this first, using R134a with dye? Or should I just add R134a with dye?

I drove the car around a little today. It gets "cool" not cold. And I heard the compressor clicking on. Maybe I messed things up by not evacuating the system and charging...


Update: I ordered some Harbor Freight gauges.

[Ozark Lee]

They have small cans of 134A, usually with a "stop leak", that includes the UV dye. I have also seen them come in kits that come with the UV glasses and a UV penlight. Walmart is actually a decent place to pick them up. With the glasses and the penlight the dye turns bright white and it is pretty easy to spot except at the evaporator. To see the evaporator you need to remove the squirrel cage blower and then I use a "mirror on a stick" to actually see back at the evaporator through the blower motor hole.

I would actually avoid running dye though the manifold gauge set and just use one of the cheap charging hoses to add it, it tends to last forever.

Cool but not cold air and clutch cycling is the typical behavior of a system with a low charge. The compressor runs until the low side pressure drops below about 28 PSI and then the low pressure cutout shuts it down. The pressure builds back up above 28 PSI and the cycle starts over again.

If you just recently added a can of R-134A and it has reverted back to not working properly it is a pretty good bet that there is a leak somewhere. I don't know how much the auto parts store cans cost these days but they were in the $10.00 each range the last time I bought one and that was a few years ago. I buy R-134A in 30 lb jugs, it is much cheaper that way and I use it for things other than automotive as well like refrigerators and some window units at the rental properties.

Once you find and repair the leak(s) then it is prudent to fully evacuate the system and draw a good vacuum and make sure that the vacuum holds before recharging. I use a refrigeration scale to recharge but with the small cans you can do a decent job of guestimating
based on the stated weight of the can and then feeling its relative weight.

...Lee

[theWIFES_S70]

Many, many thanks Lee. I'll get on it. Here's to hoping it's something easy!

[abscate]

If the evaporator has that greasy dark look to it, thats the leak. You really don't need to see the dye on this internal part - it should be squeaky clean

[theWIFES_S70]

Thanks Steve! I think I have an idea of how to progress. I'm hoping the leak is coming from something I can replace easily.

[abscate]

While you are fixing your evaporator you can fix your dash squeak too.

[theWIFES_S70]

Oh man, yes!!!

[E Showell]

Marco -- Before you go crazy with lots of complicated and expensive a/c work, try replacing the Schraeder valve and o-ring in the inlet port. It may solve freon leakage problems, and, if it works, is the cheapest possible fix.

[abscate]

The accumulator replacement has to be one of the most annoying parts of this job from a value perspective

The accumulator is basically a metal can, with about 2 cents of silica drying agent in a packet inside. That $100 bucks to replace it is basically buying the silica, if the metal is in good shape.

OF course, one must remember my perspective on life....

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... te#p399241

[JRL]

Man doesn't listen
LOOK AT THE DRYER FIRST as it needs to be replaced anyway