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Cam/crank seal removal tool?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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pkc303
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Re: Cam/crank seal removal tool?

Post by pkc303 »

A bit better explaination would help. Why is there a thumb wheel adjustment?
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precopster
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Post by precopster »

I recently scratched a exhaust camshaft due to trying to drill it when the drill slipped. Tried everything including putting the seal in backwards but couldn't clear the scratch and it kept leaking. I think most of us know how long a top end reseal takes.

Recently I changed the RMS in the 2001 XC70 and very carefully drilled it and put in a very small screw.
Would have used a better tool if it was within reach. Very interested to see what Robert comes up with.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

scot850
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Post by scot850 »

The thumbwheel adjustment is to allow moving the 'leg' to a position where it has something to rest on to allow it to pivot. This is what gives you the leverage to pull the seal.

There are youtube videos for this if you look up the tool part number.





Neil.
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2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
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gordo850turbo
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Post by gordo850turbo »

I used a paint can opener that I shortened for the exhaust cam. The intake cam had enough room. I made a post last year with pictures. Basically it is free, they come with any purchase of paint. Downside is you need a welder to shorten it.

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bmdubya1198
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Post by bmdubya1198 »

When I did my rear cam seals, I had good luck carefully hammering in a straight pick. From there, I took an angled pick in the hole I made and pulled the seal out. If you're gentle with it and don't start hitting the camshaft or the head, it works great. I tried using a screw, but that just slipped. I have probably 3 screws that might still be hanging around my engine bay because of that.
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JimBee
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Post by JimBee »

The drywall screw removal technique has always worked for me, though I agree you need to be careful to keep the (1/8" ? ) drill bit centered so you don't scratch the sides of the seat. The right angle drill driver (Harbor Freight) facilitates access to the drivers side exhaust seal.
http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-90-a ... 69337.html

Use of silicone spray helps the new seal to slide on the shaft and into the sides of the cylinder head bore quite easily. Recessing the seal with an appropriate size pvc fitting helps to get it into position—about 1/8" beyond the tapered face of the seal bore?

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

1+,

My are my 2 cents. People need to look up how a seal is constructed: basically a metal shell cover with + rubber (or Nitrile etc.), garter spring to keep the seal's lip tight. Also, look up the bore side and shaft side.

1. For the casual "Saturday mechanic" (which is true for most of us), sheet metal screw is fine. Just drill using the smallest bit and keep it centered.
Damage to the shaft side is a big no-no.
Damage to the bore is is a bit more forgiving.
What you want to drill is through the seal's metal cup.

2. The paint can is nice but one needs welding experience to cut and weld etc. Or go to local muffler shop and ask them to weld for you.

3. I bought the Lisle tool and it is very well-made.
For $15, it is a steal, make sure you have an extra tip in case it is broke (some seal is very very tight from years in service!).
So, invest in $15 and you will be happy forever lol.
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lcc014
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Post by lcc014 »

Quick question, those rear cam seals (intake or exhaust) are recessed. How do we insert the Lisle tool (hook) into inner side of seal ? I am going to do the intake cam seal as it has small oil leak.

Thanks.

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Post by bmdubya1198 »

It seems it would be very hard to get something in the edge of the seal without scratching up the camshaft or the bore. Just had this problem on my cousin's car last week (don't install these seals backwards... it saves a major headache for the replacement as well as a major oil leak). Hammering in a pick is still the best way I've been able to do it.

Before I get yelled at, the backwards installation was an honest mistake to be made with a cheap, badly designed Autozone seal!
00 V70R Venetian Red/Charcoal M56 Swapped 214k
07 XC90 V8 AWD Sport Titanium Grey/Black 220k
92 245 White/Beige 249k
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…and a bunch of other stuff
Sold-
03 S60 2.4T
00 S70 GLT
98 V70 GLT
93 944
98 S90
95 850 GLT
01 S60 2.4T
05 S60R M66
08 S40 2.4i
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scot850
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Post by scot850 »

I have not had an opportunity to need to use it on the rear cam seals yet. So not sure how well it would work as it has a curved lip that needs to get under the seal. Sorry to not be able to answer this question for sure.

Neil
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold

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