Volvo Synthetic oil campaign 2016 - warranty requirement?

[precopster]

I'm now imagining skinless chickens in boiling oil running away from the throws of the crankshaft weights. The result of years of conditioning as a child by cartoons.....

There is no doubt that temperature affects oil flow characteristics; that's why the viscosity used should be changed with region. Cold starts can be aided by 5W30 oil in colder climates. Hot climates need a 10W40 or 10W50 oil to handle the upper temperatures.

It would be really interesting to have oil temperature as a gauge but I really do feel that the cycling of the thermatic fan deals with most engine temperature issues. As coolant is cooled water jackets then cool the block and head and naturally the oil is cooled as a by product of this process.

[June]

I'm now imagining skinless chickens in boiling oil running away from the throws of the crankshaft weights. The result of years of conditioning as a child by cartoons.....

There is no doubt that temperature affects oil flow characteristics; that's why the viscosity used should be changed with region. Cold starts can be aided by 5W30 oil in colder climates. Hot climates need a 10W40 or 10W50 oil to handle the upper temperatures.

It would be really interesting to have oil temperature as a gauge but I really do feel that the cycling of the thermatic fan deals with most engine temperature issues. As coolant is cooled water jackets then cool the block and head and naturally the oil is cooled as a by product of this process.

The fried chicken thought is just what always went through my mind when I drove his car and saw 350 being reached. Just a homemakers point of view. Now I am imagining cartoon chickens bouncing around the oil pan likely screaming!

Keep in mind the corvette was only two or three years old at the time and not many miles, basically a new car. Not a old, wore out engine or any cooling system trouble. After thinking about it the oil temperature ran way hotter in city traffic and cooler on the interstate. I do remember the oil reached 200 degrees rather quickly. I admit I run a car harder than most people. My thought is if the car manufacturer did not intend for the accelerator to hit the floor than it would stop higher.

Personally I really wish my Volvo had a boost gauge as well as oil pressure and amp too. I never quite understood the oil temperature gauge but it sure could not hurt. June

[abscate]

People usually grossly overestimate the effect of ambient temp on engines.

Remember, its absolute temperature difference that is important.

Tooling around New England in a civilised 50F or 10C..you might think I am twice as cool as you poor people suffering Florida at 100F - right?

Well, we are twice as cool, but not in temperature

50F is (swagging) about 283K . 100F is 318K. so the temperature difference on absolute scale is about 10%

Checking the math is left to the Covfefe

[jimmy57]

I bet chicken fried in Mobil 1 is finger lickin' good! 350F is too much but is tolerable with synthetic so I guess Chevy knew something was up when they specified synthetics in Vettes of that vintage and newer.

Volvo N and RN ("white" engines) and any other late 90's or newer engine I've been into or read about has shorter coolant jackets around cylinders. The heat is high and allowing more temp into oil will get oil to desired temps of 200-220F quicker.
Hotter but not too hot oil temps are good. Hotter but not too hot coolant temps are the same.
Getting temp up for efficiency and evaporated oil contaminants shedding is good for engines. Something in our core says low temps, and high oil pressures are good. Not true.
Piston spray jets and oil coolers are the way it goes now and engine oil sludging is diminished as a result.

[June]

Over the last couple of months I've done a great deal of reading about synthetic oils. In the old days synthetic oil was just that, oil that was synthesized in a lab for optimal properties without any of the impurities found in crude oil.

Apparently all the leading oils sold in the USA sold as synthetic has mineral oil from the ground as it's base stock. That's all of them except special brands like Amsoil, Redline, or oils labeled 100% synthetic.

Somehow I didn't get that memo from Castrol about their oil being sold as synthetic is not. The result is varnish in my engine. I am quite upset as I payed all these years extra for a product I didn't get.

My car now is using Redline 5w30. My service advisor had no idea there was things like group 3, 4, and 5 oils and only 4, and 5 are true synthetic oil. I let my advisor get a earful of my dissatisfaction and how many other customers are getting screwed especially with the new engines Volvo says 10,000 miles oil changes are fine.

I wondered why for the last 20 years or so the oil turns dark within 2,000 miles whereas it used to with Mobil 1 stay clear for the whole 3,000 miles and Castrol Synthetic Turns Quicker.

So make a informed decision when picking a oil especially synthetic where you plan on leaving it in for a extended drain interval. Be sure you are buying a true synthetic oil group 4 or 5. You may as well get what you are paying for, not to mention the protection for your engine. June

[93Regina]

1985 Corvette...rise to 200 degrees quickly and would exceed 350 degrees.

Industrial type engines run around 230°F oil temps, but "oil temperatures between 230 and 260 degrees" are within reason, and "For a dual-purpose car, engine oil needs to be at least 220 degrees F to burn off all the deposits and accumulated water vapor." Note - With higher elevations, a lower temp will allow this to happen.

Jimmy57 noted, "...shorter coolant jackets around cylinders," which suggests conventional oils may have gotten "fried." So, the switch to synthetics, which can take higher heat range.

Speaking of synthetics, Mobil 1 has an assortment of them...so a general statement about them may not hold water.

Now, thermostat temperature used affects oil's operational temperature. Years ago, around 180°F thermostats were used, and water could be burned off with enough engine run time. Vehicles driven short miles will have water accumulation in oil, but when thermostat temperature is raised, say to 192°F, vehicles driven short miles will do better at evaporating water if PCV system is fit for duty.

GM had a ring deposit issue, causing an increase in oil consumption, some years ago, and then came out with their oil, and then improved on it. More here: Understanding GM’s dexos1™ PCMO specification......Manufacturers are downsizing engines and incorporating features such as gasoline direct injection (GDI) and turbocharging to optimize fuel consumption. These smaller, lighter engines tend to run hotter and are under more stress than older engines, meaning they need stronger protection.

Also,

Capture.JPG (69.3 KiB) Viewed 13569 times

[93Regina]

Something in our core says low temps, and high oil pressures are good. Not true.

Relative to what driving conditions, and engine design, affects your statement, in general.

1990 vintage Cummins N14 and Detroit Series 60 diesel engines were different in oil pressure...with Cummins having lower oil pressure at operational RPMs. Higher pressure does affect fuel economy a pinch...but not an issue that amounts to much on big trucks.

Yesterdays thermostats ran lower temps than todays, but engines with enough run hours (city/hwy miles) when running, were not affected by water accumulation in oil. It's always been vehicles driven short miles which had water issues in the oil, now and then.

Today's engines are different, and designed with higher temp thermostats. I can't speak about them...I'm still into old school engines:-)

[DeadEric]

An interesting video for those of us on a budget.



I believe he does some other brands as well in different videos.

As a mechanic, I'll say, standard oil change intervals are BS. Consumers want low maintenance requirements and manufacturers figure out how to stretch intervals out as far as they can while having the car last until the warranty is up.

My best advice is, use a quality oil and change it frequently.

Personally, I drive short trips to and from work (10 miles) with little to no highway driving. I change my oil every 2k. When I buy new to me cars I change it at 500 miles till it looks new at the oil change, then switch to every 2k.

This works for me and for how I drive. It may or may not work for you. Check your dipstick when you get gas and note the color as well as the level. When it gets darker, change it.

This is what I do on my 22+ year old 850's... they don't have vvt, gdi or even egr. With newer engines, the demands they put on the oil is higher and the necessity of it being clean is more important. If after an oil change (and running the engine for a minute) your oil doesn't look new, you're not changing it often enough. If it's black after 300 miles, you're not changing it often enough.

[abscate]

Thanks for keeping the oil discussion civil

For those seeking a generic path to oil change interval nirvana....

Unless your driving is really pathological ( all short trips) use a synthetic oil and change it at 5000 miles, and have Blackstone run an analysis. Adjust interval accordingly based on data, not on colour or drip tests

Example test report, cost is $25

[Jdawgvolvo]

I do 5k miles synthetic changes. No way would I do 10k on a turbo car.

Now that US cars have gone down the Turbo path the last 8-10 years those vehicles are also seeing PCV issues due to long drain intervals.

For something so cheap and easy to do, short drain intervals are a no brainer.