Help with powering S60 seat -- Not in a Car Topic is solved

[abscate]

Jbeebo nailed it. Canadians are smart and polite - thats why God gives them nice things.

The stop logic needs to be bypassed and, indeed, the switches carry full current.

You can do this with two switches

One single pole, double throw - this one controls the forward/back
One Single pole, four throw - this one directs the 12V to the four seat functions of choice.

Hmmmm. Quite a mess. Just plug a single pole double throw into each motor connector using the diagram to choose the right ones.

The stop logic is also protecting the motors from end of limit burnout - so think about that too.

[jbeebo]

I'd vote for using the existing seat switch module instead of making your own switch block. Just internally bypass the stop logic. If you need help post a pic of the seat module circuit board and we'll help you cut/solder the PCB traces to make it dance.

abscate has a good point about the protection circuitry. But if you're mindful while operating the motors it shouldn't be a problem.

[wadeatl]

I've been traveling for work this week ... I will take picture tonight.

I appreciate all the help!

[wadeatl]

OK ... here is the board ... I would greatly appreciate any guidance on what to do next.

[jbeebo]

Can you take a picture of the flip side of the board? And point to where each external wire connects to it?

I see where the 4 switches connect to the board, and I think I see the pattern, but want to be sure. This side of the board has the traces for the Motor H1 & H2 connections. I'm looking for where the +12V and GND come into the board (connection 1&2 from the wiring diagram) and thus where the power and ground planes are on the board; that's on the opposite side. Once we locate the pwr/gnd planes we can jump the pwr/gnd input to the switches directly and bypass the stop logic circuit.

That side of the board has only passives, other side should have the CAN transceiver, a FET, a small micro and more passives. I see the board is made by ALPS (Japan), good company, solder joint quality looks excellent.

[wadeatl]

Ok .. here is the other side of the board. I am hoping you can point me in the right direction.

[abscate]

The blue red and the black wire feed in the 12 bolt and ground. Respectively.

The other thing to note is the logical wire colour. Each seat is moved by applying 12 v to the motor and grounding through the center pole on each switch. The +- markings on the motor are a bit misleading as the motor always gets 12+, the side which gets it determines motor direction, the other side gets grounded only when the switch is moved from center.

How to bypass the stop logic......hmmmmm, Eureka!

Solder a wire from the blue red connection to any of the non-center pins on the three pin side on any one of the switches . Pick the switch that is easiest to solder to.

[wadeatl]

Thanks again abscate for taking the time to help me out. I am showing how little I understand about the wiring logic!! The only blue red and black wires I see are in the picture below. Should I be wiring to the 2-prong plug? And then to bypass the stop logic run a blue red connection to one of the switch pins (non center)?

[jbeebo]

abscate, I had a similar idea but would like to make a couple additional notes....

The picture of the board shows solid black as ground. But I'm having a hard time picking up the +12V connection point. To me it looks like Green/Red wire. I don't see a Blue/Red wire on the board.

And yes, I agree to route the +12V to one of the switch terminals, but would be a shame to pick the wrong one and short 12V to ground. So I advise poking around with a multimeter. Touch one side to ground wire, then probe on the end of one of the switches. One will be connected to ground and the other to +12V power plane.

In the picture below I labelled my understanding.

bottom of S60 passenger side seat controller

Y/R is CAN communication
P & BR are motor1 on switch1
G & Y are motor2 on switch2. I'm not sure Y is connected to the center left terminal on switch2. Please check.
BL & V are motor3 on switch3. I'm not sure BL is connected to the bottom center terminal on switch3. Please check.
W & B/R are motor4 on switch4

That leaves B as ground, top of board near the relay, and G/R as power. I'm pretty sure G/R is power because it looks to be connected to the bottom Right terminal of switch4 _and_ the bottom left terminal of switch3. Please confirm this and check that G/R wire is connected to one side of each end of all 4 switches.

The more I look at it, the more I think the ground is the signal that's switched by the relay. hmmmm....

One last check, please probe the black wire to the ends of the switches. Similar to power it should be connected to one side of each end of all 4 switches. Probing the power and ground plane connections will tell us which wire to cut and solder. Once we figure that our, cut that wire off the board, and solder it to one end/side terminal on the switch; the board will then make the connection to all the other switches for you.

[wadeatl]

Thanks again for all the effort! I just want to make sure I understand .. Do you want me to get +12V to the G/R and Ground to B on the connector end or on the board itself. I am good with using the multimeter but not sure where to start on getting the 12v and ground to the board/motors ...