850 Glove Box Latch Repair Topic is solved
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Volvo Glove Box Repair - The Saw Method
Re: 850 Glove Box Latch Repair
Thanks for the suggestion. I used a short piece of 3/4 X 3/4 Aluminum angle and after removing the stubs of the plastic support, I used epoxy and screws to hold the aluminum in place. That done, I then located the correct position for the hinge and drilled holes for the screws to secure the hinge and the problem was repaired. Instead of fooling around with the latch, I simply installed a strong magnetic catch which works fine because I've never locked the glove box as long as I've owned the car (1994)...
- jreed
- Posts: 1619
- Joined: 8 March 2009
- Year and Model: '97 Volvo 855 GLT
- Location: RTP, North Carolina
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I was inspired by the images of hacksaw blades and holes in the glovebox door to go and do some preventative maintenance on the latch mechanism...(pictures below).
I disassembled the glove box door and the mechanism. The metal actuator arm was still intact (no signs of bending, cracking or shearing) but I decided to strengthen it by inserting a steel pin. I drilled a hole in the actuator arm using a 1/16" bit. Then I fed a 16 gauge steel wire through the hole and clipped it to length with wire clippers. Then I mixed some rapid setting clear epoxy and filled the hole and coated the wire with it, and put the wire in the hole so that the end of the wire protruded slightly past the end of the pin.
After the epoxy set, I reassembled the actuator in the mechanism, applied some white lithium grease and put the mechanism back onto the glovebox door.
So far, it's working as smoothly as before I took it apart, and hopefully the steel pin will add strength and be less brittle than the metal actuator arm.

I disassembled the glove box door and the mechanism. The metal actuator arm was still intact (no signs of bending, cracking or shearing) but I decided to strengthen it by inserting a steel pin. I drilled a hole in the actuator arm using a 1/16" bit. Then I fed a 16 gauge steel wire through the hole and clipped it to length with wire clippers. Then I mixed some rapid setting clear epoxy and filled the hole and coated the wire with it, and put the wire in the hole so that the end of the wire protruded slightly past the end of the pin.
After the epoxy set, I reassembled the actuator in the mechanism, applied some white lithium grease and put the mechanism back onto the glovebox door.
So far, it's working as smoothly as before I took it apart, and hopefully the steel pin will add strength and be less brittle than the metal actuator arm.
- Attachments
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- Actuator arm with steel pin held in place with epoxy.
- GloveBoxLatchDrill&Peg_03.jpg (97.83 KiB) Viewed 9300 times
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- Actuator arm with 16 gauge steel wire fed through the 1/16" hole. (White stuff on mechanism is lithium grease).
- GloveBoxLatchDrill&Peg_02.jpg (318.92 KiB) Viewed 9300 times
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- End view of actuator with the freshly drilled hole made with a 1/16" bit and hand drill.
- GloveBoxLatchDrill&Peg_01.jpg (204.05 KiB) Viewed 9300 times
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
Great guide. However I found it more economical to simply saw through the catch (as explained), then proceed to "rough up" the felt surface with alcohol, and apply INDUSTRIAL-grade Velcro. Sticks to its surface like glue, but one must ensure that the felt surface is roughed up first, otherwise the Velcro will simply stick to itself. It holds more firmly than it did when the glove box actually worked normally. There is much less give in the glove box cover. Not as thorough of a fix, but it will certainly get the job done in much less time and it holds just as well.
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850forum
- Posts: 237
- Joined: 25 June 2009
- Year and Model: 1995 850 turbo wagon
- Location: USA
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Drilling a small hole to access the latch itself seems much better than ruining the latch itself:
See:
If you cut away the vinyl & peel it back the hole won't even be visible under the vinyl.
Mine is stuck, drilling seems the least damaging way to do it.
1/4" hole 8 3/4" from left edge of glove box door, where its curving from top edge to front edge.
stick an awl in & catch the latch with friction, then lever down to turn the latch.
This guy figured out the shape for a tool that slides in & acts to lever the latch, but you would need an open door to figure out how to shape the bends correctly:
If the problem is that pot metal pin breaking, can it be fixed with a steel wire or a bolt?
See:
If you cut away the vinyl & peel it back the hole won't even be visible under the vinyl.
Mine is stuck, drilling seems the least damaging way to do it.
1/4" hole 8 3/4" from left edge of glove box door, where its curving from top edge to front edge.
stick an awl in & catch the latch with friction, then lever down to turn the latch.
This guy figured out the shape for a tool that slides in & acts to lever the latch, but you would need an open door to figure out how to shape the bends correctly:
If the problem is that pot metal pin breaking, can it be fixed with a steel wire or a bolt?
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
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850forum
- Posts: 237
- Joined: 25 June 2009
- Year and Model: 1995 850 turbo wagon
- Location: USA
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Sunofabitch. Got it out, saw the busted pin, then the assembly sort of explodes in my hand & I cannot find the latch piece. Why didn't they put a circlip on BOTH axle pins ?????
Losing the BROKEN piece would not be so bad, at least I'd be buying usefully new. Probably have to buy a whole latch assembly -- going to a yard isn't feasible for me.
In a couple years we will be able to3D print pieces like this...
Losing the BROKEN piece would not be so bad, at least I'd be buying usefully new. Probably have to buy a whole latch assembly -- going to a yard isn't feasible for me.
In a couple years we will be able to3D print pieces like this...
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
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Richard_TD
- Posts: 33
- Joined: 29 March 2015
- Year and Model: 855 2.5 20V 1996
- Location: Scotland
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When it happened on my 854 I found that I could open the glovebox by jiggling the handle until the door fell open. It's worth trying that before resorting to more destructive methods I think. A previous owner of the 855 I've just bought seems to have opened the glove box by breaking the hinges then cable tying them back together.
Sawing through the latch seems ok to me because you get a new latch in the kit anyway.
Sawing through the latch seems ok to me because you get a new latch in the kit anyway.
1996 855 GLT 2.5 20V
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850forum
- Posts: 237
- Joined: 25 June 2009
- Year and Model: 1995 850 turbo wagon
- Location: USA
- Been thanked: 6 times
Well, I looked & felt all around the inside of the car. I vaccuumed the car & dumped it out -- heard one hopeful sound but it was a penny. Then I vaccuumed the front yard - I had the passenger door & window open, by the curb, and it maybe jumped sideways. Told the dog walkers I was prepping for the Neatest Yard Competition. Now I'm hoping someone knows someone with a metal detector...
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
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850forum
- Posts: 237
- Joined: 25 June 2009
- Year and Model: 1995 850 turbo wagon
- Location: USA
- Been thanked: 6 times
$50 got another door assembly. Might as well install the facia plate so there is no drill hole.
How do I remove the glove box itself so I can get to the door hinge screws?
i have removed several torx screws but not coming out. Is it just stuck?
How do I remove the glove box itself so I can get to the door hinge screws?
i have removed several torx screws but not coming out. Is it just stuck?
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
NEVER OPEN THE HOOD !!!
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Franz47
- Posts: 7
- Joined: 30 August 2007
- Year and Model: 850 TDI VAN 1997
- Location: Vienna, Austria, Europe
- Been thanked: 1 time
Don't do any of the recommended invasive and destroying stuff like sawing or drilling a hole into the lid.
Yesterday my latch mechanism failed and I could not open it. Besides the 2 destructive methods I found https://www.motor-talk.de/videos/handsc ... 47092.html and today it did the trick for me without destroying anything. Cut a 2 cm strip of a credit card or similar, bend one end, then introduce it into the slit between lid and box at a distance of 22 - 22,5 cm from the left end of the lid. After a few attempts it worked for me like shown on the video. You have to pry the strip really deep so it goes in between the hook and the bracket. Once it slips into the correct place, the lid opens immediately. You can then see then how the strip is stuck in the lid-locking mechanism
Yesterday my latch mechanism failed and I could not open it. Besides the 2 destructive methods I found https://www.motor-talk.de/videos/handsc ... 47092.html and today it did the trick for me without destroying anything. Cut a 2 cm strip of a credit card or similar, bend one end, then introduce it into the slit between lid and box at a distance of 22 - 22,5 cm from the left end of the lid. After a few attempts it worked for me like shown on the video. You have to pry the strip really deep so it goes in between the hook and the bracket. Once it slips into the correct place, the lid opens immediately. You can then see then how the strip is stuck in the lid-locking mechanism
Last edited by Franz47 on 04 Oct 2021, 14:11, edited 3 times in total.
- Sveedy
- Posts: 2069
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Got to love things like that. Quick, simple and clean. I'm thinking that I will go ahead and make that little " Slim Jim ", try it a few times while my door is still working, and then put it in my car tool box. Just in case.
Try to learn life's bad lessons vicariously through others.
1996 850 Turbo GLH ( Goes Like Hell )
1999 V70 GLT
1996 850 Turbo GLH ( Goes Like Hell )
1999 V70 GLT
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