Login Register

Front door detent broken

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

Post Reply
jas16
Posts: 2
Joined: 17 December 2006
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by jas16 »

hey, well i'm gettin the same prob with my dad's '99 s70, passenger side. i tightened the nut in the middle and it stopped it like for a couple of days and now the noise is back with a vengence...i'm gonna look at it in a couple of days, once my exams are over and see what happens

zenmervolt
Posts: 186
Joined: 18 February 2007
Year and Model:
Location: Seattle, WA

Post by zenmervolt »

JRL wrote:New one needs to be welded on, body shop time
Not necessarily. I had a door-stay that broke, but the mounting point and door were fine. Bolted a new one on and it works perfectly. See the pictures below to see what happened to the door stay.

OK, I had pictures, but for some reason the GD forum software thinks that they're spam and won't let me post them.

It may just be an inexpensive repair to replace the part. The hardest part is getting the door panel off without breaking the plastic clips (not terribly difficult, just have to be careful). It's not always the piece on the car's body that fails.
'98 Volvo S70 T5 SE

'86 Porsche 951

'76 Porsche 914

bobsnow100
Posts: 461
Joined: 18 July 2006
Year and Model:
Location:
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by bobsnow100 »

Fixed mine by pre-drilling holes and using self tapping hex head galvinized screws.The kind they use for metal roofs. Put about 5 or 6 of them in. It was quick to repair and has worked perfect since.

phoenix_iii
Posts: 63
Joined: 23 August 2007
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by phoenix_iii »

bobsnow100 wrote:Fixed mine by pre-drilling holes and using self tapping hex head galvinized screws.The kind they use for metal roofs. Put about 5 or 6 of them in. It was quick to repair and has worked perfect since.
Can you be more specific? Pics? Where did you drill into, and why? Thank you!

bobsnow100
Posts: 461
Joined: 18 July 2006
Year and Model:
Location:
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by bobsnow100 »

Sorry ,I didn't take any pictures. I drilled so the metal hinge part which broke around the outside edge, into the jamb and made sure I hit good metal behind it where I predrilled and secured it with self tapping screws. It is still works perfect

phoenix_iii
Posts: 63
Joined: 23 August 2007
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by phoenix_iii »

OH!

So you took a rectangle plate, let's say, and drilled holes in it (a little undersized), and then holes on the outer corners and secured it to the door jam

You then took the metal screws and drilled the beginning failing metal into this rectangle plate? Sounds good to me.

I shouldn't have a problem removing the door (electrical is easy, and then the door lifts straight off, I believe).

Did you have any problems with just the door off or did you remove the quarter panel to? Details appreciated, especially a little

Step1:
Step2:

Will help others too. =)
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo

chuckcintron
Posts: 478
Joined: 11 May 2007
Year and Model:
Location: Upstate New York
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by chuckcintron »

Just did mine yesterday. I couldn't do the tape-on-finger routine to hold the nut in place inside the door frame, so I bent a spanner to the correct angle and then used "super glue" to hold the nut in the spanner while threading the screw in.

I used stainless steel hex-drive pan head screws and caulked everything with GE Silicone II.

Oh, also, I did not drill into the existing spot welds, I figured it best to drill into a more solid location.

-Chuck
1997 855GLT

findude
Posts: 64
Joined: 18 September 2008
Year and Model:
Location: Northern Virginia

Post by findude »

zenmervolt wrote:
JRL wrote:New one needs to be welded on, body shop time
Not necessarily. I had a door-stay that broke, but the mounting point and door were fine. Bolted a new one on and it works perfectly.

It may just be an inexpensive repair to replace the part. The hardest part is getting the door panel off without breaking the plastic clips (not terribly difficult, just have to be careful). It's not always the piece on the car's body that fails.
I had the same problem, the door check (I think that's what it's called) failed. There is a replacement part from Volvo (about $50 if I recall correctly) which differs from the original part. I also needed to buy some SEMS bolts from the hardware store since the original part has threaded posts on it but the replacement part just has holes for bolts. I replaced it in the parking lot at work during lunch one day, and, yes, the hardest part is removing and reinstalling the door panel.

At the time (couple of years ago) there was a web page somewhere (here or Bay 13?) with photos for removing the door panel, but I can't find it now.

Good luck.
1996 854 Grand Luxe n/a 5-speed

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post