2001 V70 2.4T Oil pooling in the wells around ignition coils, Permatex 51813 cam sealer Topic is solved

[Rattnalle]

To me it doesn't look like it's coming from the filler cap. Should be stickier in that area.

[prwood]

To me it doesn't look like it's coming from the filler cap. Should be stickier in that area.

Yeah, it's always been pretty clean around the oil filler cap, which is why I'm always skeptical as to that being the source.

Based on where it's pooling, I'm actually wondering if it's leaking from under the screws on the valve clearance inspection holes, or from under the screws holding on the cam cover? I've done some Googling and thus far I haven't seen anyone else identify that as a possible culprit. But it would be simple enough to remove those screws, clean and inspect the screws and the holes, and replace/retorque them. I have the torque spec as 20 Nm.

[prwood]

Found the source of the leak. There is oil seeping from under the boot of ignition coil #4. Due to the incline of the engine it runs backwards into the wells around the valve clearance inspection holes.

So... Now what?

[precopster]

5 o rings between the two halves of the cylinder head are probably cracked or were improperly seated during installation if the head has been off. Dorman sell a nice inexpensive kit for this or just go for Genuine.

[prwood]

5 o rings between the two halves of the cylinder head are probably cracked or were improperly seated during installation if the head has been off. Dorman sell a nice inexpensive kit for this or just go for Genuine.

Any pointers to a tutorial on how to remove/replace the top half of the cylinder head? The procedures I'm finding online are for removing the entire cylinder head, which I'm hoping isn't necessary.

[precopster]

Remove strut brace. Remove plastic covers and turbo pipe. Peel back all the wiring and remove coil packs. Remove timing belt. Remove engine torque rod.
Remove rear mounted cam sensors.

Remove 42 x M7 bolts then crack apart the 2 halves with a soft mallet or a specialised tool which separates the head at the separation points.

You'll need anaerobic sealer to re-assemble. Torque on the 42 bolts is 17Nm.

[RickHaleParker]

1. Clean it off 2. Add some UV dye to the oil 3. In the dark, High idle it under a UV lamp ... watch to see where the oil is coming from.

[prwood]

Remove strut brace. Remove plastic covers and turbo pipe. Peel back all the wiring and remove coil packs. Remove timing belt. Remove engine torque rod.
Remove rear mounted cam sensors.

Remove 42 x M7 bolts then crack apart the 2 halves with a soft mallet or a specialised tool which separates the head at the separation points.

You'll need anaerobic sealer to re-assemble. Torque on the 42 bolts is 17Nm.

Do I need to use the Volvo branded sealer, or will any off-the-shelf anaerobic sealer do? This is one I can get locally:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/per ... =anaerobic

[abscate]

I haven't done one of these but Permatex is a pretty solid brand for sealants.

Let the experts chime in, though. Did you try a re-torque just for laughs?

[prwood]

I haven't done one of these but Permatex is a pretty solid brand for sealants.

Let the experts chime in, though. Did you try a re-torque just for laughs?

No, I stopped once I saw there was no oil coming from under the bolts.