Replace Voltage Regulator Without Removing Alternator

[PeteB]

I ordered brushes and also bought this one on ebay, that doesn't show any brand.
It arrived and came in a Transpro box and also says Transpro on the part. Here is
a bit about the US based company or maybe just a US distributor:
http://www.waiglobal.com/transpoelectronics

I was pleased to see that it was not a completely no-name part.

[PeteB]

The two that list an OEM bosch number both list 1 127 014 028 that Chuck W provided
so I'm going to order that one, probably from Amazon for $7.43:
https://www.amazon.com/BOSCH-Alternator ... B003NE3EJO

When I tried to order these brushes on Amazon the shipping time was very long,
like 3 weeks and I could not find where, what country, they were shipping from.
So I bought them on ebay from a company in Ohio:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brush-Kit-Alte ... 2749.l2649

[PeteB]

I ordered brushes and also bought this one on ebay, that doesn't show any brand.
It arrived and came in a Transpro box and also says Transpro on the part. Here is
a bit about the US based company or maybe just a US distributor:
http://www.waiglobal.com/transpoelectronics

I was pleased to see that it was not a completely no-name part.

We installed this a couple of weeks ago and it is working fine.

[PeteB]

Is there a wiring diagram that shows how the wires are routed in the car?
I'm wondering if the large red wire on the back of the alternator goes up to
the battery terminal, starter, or fuse box.
Edit: It goes to the starter according to parts info.

[MrAl]

Robert says in this video that this is possible and he has done it:
Also note that the brushes are included in the voltage regulator assembly
and these are probably even more common to go bad.


I'm trying to do this on our car and have removed the electrical
connection, one slip on and one 13 mm bolt.
One person who did this removed the dipstick tube and I do think that makes
it a bit easier.
Also removed the 3 med sized Phillips screws. I used a med sized 1/4"
drive Phillips bit in a 1/4 socket with extensions for the first two. The last
one closest to the block I used the socket straight on a 1/4" drive and it
was fairly easy - started it with a small 1/4" ratchet drive.

Now there are 3 plastic tabs that snap on.
The first one on the top snapped off so I have no way to pry up, I'll probably
snap off the rest of this one. The other two are nearly impossible to get
to, especially the one close to the block.

Anyone know of a trick on how to do this, we are almost there to getting
the voltage reg out! Robert?

I watched the video again and it looks like Robert broke them off, the
plastic is so old that it might be the only way. Then there are 3 screws to
hold it on anyway when reinstalling.

Thanks again Robert!

Hey thanks Pete for the link i'll check that out.
I'll also take another look under my hood for this next time i go out there.

[MrAl]

Hello again,

Ok i think i found the answer, or at least part of it, to my question about powering the computer through the OBDII connector while working on the alternator.

It seems apparent now that once you disconnect the battery the power to the alternator is removed, but if you then power the computer through the OBDII connector (which is a typical way to keep the ECU alive) then the alternator MUST be getting power again from whatever you are using to power the OBDII connector. So as it stands so far, that's not going to work.

The next question i have not found an answer to yet. That is, if you disconnect the battery and power the OBDII connector is there a fuse you can pull to disconnect only the alternator and not the ECU. That way you can keep the ECU memory intact (monitors) while working on the alternator.
On my old Hyundai there was such a fuse, and i found out the hard way by blowing it out one time working on the alternator (ha ha). i think it was a 60 amp fuse. Pulling that fuse allows working on the alternator without fear of shorting the wrench to the chassis and blowing something out.

So all i need now is to find out if there is such a fuse, and if so, pull it out. It may be such that the battery does not even have to be disconnected when working on the alternator, although i know some people will still want to do that. On my old Hyundai however pulling the fuse was enough did not have to disconnect the battery.
I used to have some schematics for the Volvo i'll have to see if i can find them again.

Thanks for all the ideas. Robert's video is really great as usual too.