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Should i keep car with these issues

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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June
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Re: Should i keep car with these issues

Post by June »

Here is a pictorial of a good working PCV checked via the glove test. This is my 2004 S80 T6, the 5cyl has the same oil spout and cap. I hope this helps! June
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My Volvo cars owned
1989 740 GLT ordered
1994 850 4door standard shift ordered
1996 960 ordered
1998 S90 ordered totalled after 3 weeks
1998 V70 GT dealer stock car
2002 S80 T6 ordered totalled
2004 S80 T6 dealer stock car and current car owned

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SuperHerman
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Post by SuperHerman »

A Volvo is like any other car. A good mechanic is a good mechanic. I don't think you are dealing with good mechanics.

I have had great experience with dealers, and at the same time horrible experience from the same. On the other hand, my good mechanics are always good.

You can clean off the engine as you mentioned in a self clean bay. Just be careful where you spray.

Once it is clean take some pictures. After a couple long drives and take some more pictures and post them.

Get your tires and control arm serviced, make sure timing belt replacement has been done, and use June's suggestion on glove test to check your PCV system. After that you will get some great info here.

EngineeringBloke
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Post by EngineeringBloke »

Thanks, June, for people who have not been reading this site for a while, a reference to a 'glove test' is not enough. Your description was great.

And Michelle, be careful about spraying a hot engine with water to clean it. If you drive to a car wash where you can do that - the engine will be hot (especially in Las Vagas). Water sprayed on a hot engine will cool parts of it resulting in uneven expansion. This can easily result in the head gasket (between the top and middle of the engine) failing. This can be very expensive to fix! And yes, I did this to an old car (in New England) and killed the engine, so I do know.

I suggest you don't clean the engine.

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oragex
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Post by oragex »

June wrote: 03 Feb 2019, 17:26 Michelle, stay away from places like Mineke! No wonder a front wheel drive has a differential leak :roll: . You must find a European car specialist shop minimally.

Yes it has PCV and to test it you can do a glove test. Take off the oil cap and attach a latex exam glove over the hole. Start engine and the glove should suck in. Then rev engine to 2000 rpm and the glove should stay sucked in. If it inflates at idle or 2000 rpm your PCV is in need of replacement.

Spraying the engine with water is not a good idea. It is best to have a actual professional mechanic use a air sprayer that can clean the engine with solvent not water and he will then spray powder on it then have you drive it a few days. The seepage will be apparent in the powder. Do NOT spray a product like canned engine degreaser on a hot engine as it is flammable and the hot turbo could ignite it and that type of fire water won't put out.

Being a lady it is tough to trust a mechanic/shop. That us why I stick with the dealer personally. June

Also look on Youtube for the PCV test such as this one. The glove must be tight (no need to do on a hot engine) and must suck in quite strongly (keep it with your fingers if there is no grid on the oil hole) www.youtube.com/watch?v=gD2OOSl1tIM

As mentioned, careful with water around the engine, in any case, by no means water on the top cover of the engine, it will leak under the black plastic cover and around the ignition coils which - despite having a rubber base, will let water leak on top of the spark plugs with some unwanted consequences (I lost two ignition coils this way)

Have a look here local.google.com when looking for a place, and see the reviews - I recommend always reading first the negative ones to get a more real feedback

The transmission fluid was well done, only I (for one) was not very pleased with the MaxLife and went replacing it with the Toyota Type IV from a Toyota dealer. But you can also get the Aisin or Idemitsu oils

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aisin- ... t4#fitment
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 2k#fitment

precopster
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Post by precopster »

Remove the 8 X T30 torx screws on the engine cover and see if the galleys in the head are filled with oil. If they are there is an easy path at the rear of the head to escape past the exhaust and onto the sump.

If so immediately purchase a new oil cap seal and dry up all the oil with paper towels, then see if it fills again after afew days. You can safely drive it around with no covers until you can determine this.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

natural4reelz
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Post by natural4reelz »

Ok I should express again about how I have clue on fixing my car.... so I DONT know what galleys are.

Basically, i need pictures that have step by step HOW TO ‘s .... im no mechanic....


: ( I have read my help messages and can barely understand when someone who has knowledge is texting me with words termed for the experienced mechanic or person ....

Ps.... Once a car hs been doing minor issues as for slipping kind of or sluggish driving and then change the fluid ....... “” will that fix the issue within a small time frame

Im asking because ..... although the driving is alot better as in it not jerking..... but i DO STILL feel sluggish and have notice i have to press the gas petal down more to get it to accelerate and then sometimes it does fine...

Ahain I apologize for the sme questions but i feel more confused with all the info and dont know where to start.....

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dlundblad
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Post by dlundblad »

natural4reelz wrote: 05 Feb 2019, 14:07 Ok I should express again about how I have clue on fixing my car.... so I DONT know what galleys are.

Basically, i need pictures that have step by step HOW TO ‘s .... im no mechanic....


: ( I have read my help messages and can barely understand when someone who has knowledge is texting me with words termed for the experienced mechanic or person ....

Ps.... Once a car hs been doing minor issues as for slipping kind of or sluggish driving and then change the fluid ....... “” will that fix the issue within a small time frame

Im asking because ..... although the driving is alot better as in it not jerking..... but i DO STILL feel sluggish and have notice i have to press the gas petal down more to get it to accelerate and then sometimes it does fine...

Ahain I apologize for the sme questions but i feel more confused with all the info and dont know where to start.....
Look at the above photo that June posted. See the black plastic engine cover that says Volvo? Remove those plastic covers and see if there's oil pooling up underneath.

This spark plug replacement how to will show you how to take the covers off. You'll also see the galleys/ indentations that could allow oil to pool up.
Hers: Charcoal 2002 S60 2.4t 187k

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June
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Post by June »

natural4reelz wrote: 05 Feb 2019, 14:07 Ok I should express again about how I have clue on fixing my car.... so I DONT know what galleys are.

Basically, i need pictures that have step by step HOW TO ‘s .... im no mechanic....


: ( I have read my help messages and can barely understand when someone who has knowledge is texting me with words termed for the experienced mechanic or person ....

Ps.... Once a car hs been doing minor issues as for slipping kind of or sluggish driving and then change the fluid ....... “” will that fix the issue within a small time frame

Im asking because ..... although the driving is alot better as in it not jerking..... but i DO STILL feel sluggish and have notice i have to press the gas petal down more to get it to accelerate and then sometimes it does fine...

Ahain I apologize for the sme questions but i feel more confused with all the info and dont know where to start.....
You need to check the color of the transmission fluid now! If it has turned black or while on the dipstick it has black particles in the fluid you may have a slipping transmission likely due to clutch dammage. What you are describing sounds like a slipping transmission.

What rpm is the tachometer showing while it feels sluggish? If it is running more rpms than normal while it feels sluggish that is bad for the transmission clutch packs, that in turn will turn the fluid black and burn up the transmission.

The jerking you feel is it during a shift? Is it pausing in between gears than banging into the next gear?

So start by pulling out the transmission dipstick and inspecting the fluid, second look for rpm jumps when it feels sluggish. June
My Volvo cars owned
1989 740 GLT ordered
1994 850 4door standard shift ordered
1996 960 ordered
1998 S90 ordered totalled after 3 weeks
1998 V70 GT dealer stock car
2002 S80 T6 ordered totalled
2004 S80 T6 dealer stock car and current car owned

natural4reelz
Posts: 75
Joined: 6 November 2018
Year and Model: 02 VOLVO S60 TURBO 5
Location: LAS VEGAS, NV
Has thanked: 3 times

Post by natural4reelz »

Yes i posted a pic on the color of the tranny fluid already...... u can read my earlier posts about it

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June
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Post by June »

natural4reelz wrote: 05 Feb 2019, 16:51 Yes i posted a pic on the color of the tranny fluid already...... u can read my earlier posts about it
I read the other posts. You need to monitor the color until the issue resolves. A slipping transmission can completely burn up the clutch packs In a few miles. June
My Volvo cars owned
1989 740 GLT ordered
1994 850 4door standard shift ordered
1996 960 ordered
1998 S90 ordered totalled after 3 weeks
1998 V70 GT dealer stock car
2002 S80 T6 ordered totalled
2004 S80 T6 dealer stock car and current car owned

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